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Steve, Far out, you really did a great job explaining yesterday's events. I took many photos, I will post some this afternoon. I really need to get to the grocery store for chicken food. Must go early, the hens will start an uprising if I don't. Besides, RedBird awaits me, after the best repair job ever. I do not want her to wait, plus I am just as anxious as she is! Many thanks to Steve, Greg, Tony, and Tim for their hands on repairs. Plus many thanks to each of you that have offered information, and sent needed parts. One of the best things I have ever done was to join CZCC. Great friendship offered, as well as the continued assistance with my 280Z. It would never have been done without each of you!

Well, we got out to Jai's house again. To describe what went on is pretty lengthy, so I posted it over at my blog. If you're ready for a long, leisurely read, here it is: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2015/10/24/friday-at-jais/.

I would be interested in horn kits. I could "careless" (sorry for the pun) about the smog pump. I have owned a number of 240z and don't think I have ever had one with an intact pump. I don't miss it and am not required to have it, just something else to break. So no on the pump...

I had the same problem a while ago. If I remember right, I left the mounting bolts loose so the mount could "rooster" a little bit and allow the various bolts and studs and holes to align. Once the engine weight was on them the rest was easy. Edit - actually, I think that I had to use an awl to shift the mount over to get the bolts through the holes after the stud was in the hole. They didn't drop in to place. I think I did the same with my transmission mount.

Last drive for this season. Winter is coming. No its time to go triples. Hope the car will run as good as it did on the su carbs!

No spoilers here.

Can she drive past her mailbox now? I'll have leisurely read the blog when it ever rains again.

It's funny that it seems 90% of comments regarding extending the exhaust tip or running side pipes won't make any difference, when it clearly does. I ran dual exits before the rear axle and there is NO exhaust coming in the cabin anymore. That said, the muffler and plumbing are getting just wrecked on these roads. Will probably try something like you did. Over the past few days, installed NRG steering hub and NRG quick release, Grip Royal Blackwood Grain wheel. Pulled fuel tank and soldered up a crack in the lower vent line seem. Pulled rear diff cover, tapped new M12x1.75 helicoil, locktite and impact BOLTS to mustache bar. Remounted. Found 2 bolts sheared and missing from AZC front control arm. Replaced. Appears rear strut tower steel has separated from inner skin. Creaking and banging on both sides. Sealant is cracked the entire length of seam. Don't know what to do there. Installed wilwood prop valve in front of parking brake handle for rear brake balance. Installed and fabricated bracket in tunnel to mount wilwood 5/8" MC for factory handbrake lever actuation. Works. Removed stock prop valve at rear axle. Bled brakes. Replaced front hub dust caps, repacked bearings. Still waiting on speedo cable... Emailed GC several times over the past couple months. They're officially refusing to reply or acknowledge they ****ed up. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Okay, I've got the front grill and an R190 4:44 LSD so now all I need is everything else to build my own 432R

You can get red LED lights meant to go on the back plate or any number of other places on a motorcycle. If there are any places to mount them that you could run a wire this might be effective, especially if you can swivel them around to point directly into the following car. I haven't gotten to that part of my restoration yet, so I can't think of where would work best. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

These cure all efi problems.

I misunderstood your tab reference, sorry. I thought you were talking about the rubber stopper under the dome. Now I know. Take the 4 screws out. Turn the float chamber lid 90 degrees counter clockwise. there's 2 indentations on the sides of the lid. You'll have to gently wiggle it around the tab, keeping it flat against the bowl, working the indentations under the tab. It'll pull up and out.

Plastic wheel to strip the paint without harming the metal. That is of course AFTER all the tar is gone...

Finally drove my 72 since purchasing 3 years ago. Drove it ~ 140km.

Ive been up all night looking at different LSD swaps. It seems that the R200 out of a Turbo 300ZX is the easiest, but i have learned that they are very hard to come by. So im wondering what the most cost effective/ Easiest (Im reluctant to say easiest because i know it will be a lot of work either way) LSD swap will be. I suppose i could weld an open diff, but i really really dont want to. Thanks for any info. Ive used the search button but have not found anything about what might be the best way to go. Thanks