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Its all crazy. I see spark coming from the plugs when i tested them with my old coil, and tested that the resistance was okay. I fight for weeks to get my Z running for the big car event in 1.st of may. Then, as a final resort, i went to parts shop and got a new coil, just to rule that out. And guess what....it was the goddarn coil all the time!! I dont usually smoke, but i have cigarets just in case i want one. I light one just after i have finished assembling all the stuff, coil, distributor (wich was tested by the guy who built it and verified as working, i saw the testing equipment and how it produces nice blue spark) yet another set of new plugs and new coil wire. After the nerve calming cigaret, I sat in the car, pressed gas 2 times so that the carbs get enough fuel to start and left the throttle halfway open. Turned key and BRAAAAAAPPPPP. I almost $^!# myself, it was like Z was angry at me for not seeing the obvious. It idles like straight from factory line (well everything else has been tuned for DAYS so i would not excpect nothing less haha) Now i have this stupid grin on my face and i can't get it off, help

Wow, these links bring back some memories. Many of these are no longer active. It's nice to see that we are still here!

Looks like I will be departing the Seattle & pacific NW area on Friday, May 1st. on a 2400 mile trip to Prarie Grove AR in my beloved 280z. New house is rented and will be ready. Two vehicles going, the big car is being driven by a friend, pulling a trailer, me in my Z car - just a light load of stuff & my lap top. Some big stuff already sent ahead by truck. The planned route goes thru Boise, Las Vegas, Flagstaff, Albuquerque, Amarillo, Oklahoma City and Tulsa. Should be able to catch parts of historic Route 66 after Vegas. Should be in NW AR by Wed or Thurs the following week if all goes according to plan, (stopping in Vegas for a day). Have the Z car fairly well prepped ... Front end - steering stuff all fairly new, brakes, u-joints done last year. New plugs, cap, rotor, fresh VR1 oil & filter of course. Recent tranny & diff redline oil, coolant changed last year. Plus fresh valve seals & rail FI hoses (Thanks Geoff) Spares & tools Have an assortment of the common tools with me in the car, spare fan belt, 4 qts of VR1 oil. In the trailer - my stock wheels & tires, most of the tools, a plastic bin with a new fuel pump, water pump, upper & lower rad hoses, bulbs, tape, etc. Any suguestions most welcome... have I overlooked anything? Should be an interesting trip, by far the longest I have taken in my 280z (it turns 38 next month) Wish me luck...

I have been curious about the source of the pitting inside the t. cover for a while & your theory about the current path (or lack of it) thru the block may explain why. Some old covers are pitted & others not. Is it possible that without a "solid" ground thru any of the bolts & assuming that the coolant is acidic enough to act as an electrolyte, is it likely some of the current is flowing between the dissimilar metals, pitting the alum? It may also be the pitting is caused by galvanic action alone. Any thoughts?

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I agree with the two previous. Don't take it off, just treat it on the stand. I've used both soda and pecan shells, either will work great. Just tape off what you don't want stripped, maybe two layers of tape. Take the stand outside....

Download Waze to your smartphone, great app for figuring our where the speedtraps are.

Please-no derails, it's a lot of paperwork,

How about taping it off and and hit with paint stripper? After scraping off the paint you can make the aluminum fresh with a soda blaster. I use this quick and dirty method, FF to the 1 min. mark, all you need is an air gun, a bit of tubing and a box of baking soda. Chris

What the condenser does is provide a TEMPORARY low impedance path for the primary current until the points gap is large enough that the "kick back" from the primary is not enough to arc across the gap. That's the nutshell. Here's some detail. Start with some arc theory: 1) It's easier to establish an arc across a smaller gap than a large one.2) It's easier to MAINTAIN an arc than to establish one in the first place. So if you can prevent an arc from forming when the points are first opening and the gap is very small, you might be able to prevent an arc from ever forming at all because the points gap gets wider as the cam rotates and opens it further. in other words, if you can delay the voltage presented across the points gap until the gap is wide enough to withstand that voltage, then you will not get an arc at all. The condenser provides that delay with it's temporary path. The condenser has to be large enough to suppress the gap voltage until the points are wide enough to resist the arc, but as small as possible since any energy that you use to fill the condenser doesn't go into making a spark at the spark plug. The bottom line is you should use the smallest value you can get away with before you start arcing your points. But here's the tricky part... Remember the part about it being easier to maintain an arc than to establish one? That's where the ignition spark performance stuff comes in. You might think to yourself "Heck, I want the hottest spark possible at my plugs and I don't care if I have to replace my points more often to get it. I'm not going to use any condenser at all and that way, I'll get more energy at my plugs." Well, not true... If you don't use any condenser at all and simply let the arc form across the points gap, you're bleeding energy out of your ignition coil through that arc the whole time that arc exists. So by the time the primary energy is no longer high enough to maintain the arc, you've lost a bunch of energy that COULD have been put into a secondary side spark but is no longer available because it went through the points arc instead. So if you can time it correctly such that the condenser is full at the exact same time when the primary side voltage is not high enough to jump the points gap, then you will get a faster change in the primary current and hence a hotter spark on the secondary side. In other words, the resistance to flow through an already established arc is lower than the resistance to flow though a full condenser. Use the smallest condenser you can without arcing the points. Not only will you not burn up your points, but you'll also get the most rapid change in primary current which creates the hottest spark at the secondary. Quiz on Monday.

I thought the tuned circuit part was for points, along with suppressing the arcing to make the points last longer. Not sure that the same applies to transistor ignition systems. Arne's problem was with a Pertronix electronic setup and it was never really clear why his had problems but numerous other people with the same setup didn't.