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Headlight switch problem- 1978 280z


gotham22

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  • 2 weeks later...

Late to the party here, but one of my buddies was into 3D printing for awhile. Don't ask me for details because I dunno them, but apparently there's some kind of plastic/polymer/whatever you can use to 3D print gun components. I'd imagine this material could withstand the heat and general wear and tear of friction fairly well. Just 2 cents, I'm no expert.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/16/2022 at 5:34 PM, SteveJ said:

IMG_6146.jpeg

Yep, that's a problem. It melts down/wears down because of the heat from all of the current flowing through the switch. Don't try to get a 3D printed version. It will only melt down faster than the original piece.

@Captain Obvious You're better with plastics than I am. Can you think of a hard plastic that could be drilled/milled/lathed into a replacement?

Did you get a depth of the nub? I'm trying to make a 3d printable modle with some good filiment. I have the OD, ID And H,  I'm trying to get the depth inside and I'm also trying to find some springs 

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I am a day late and a $ short and am sorry to be the bearer of bad news...

...but there is a reason that metal was not used by Nissan (other than cost).

Metal can cause shorts and cause issues with  light operation.

 

I have experimented with this and I don't try to substitute metal anymore.

Maybe 280z's are different as their electrical systems seem  to be more stout than earlier.

 

240z's though...no way. I have tried metal on no less than 3 occasions and it affects operation, whether wiper motor not shutting off, or tachometer needle dancing around, or headlight operation inconsistent.

 

 

You were on the right track with one of your ideas.

 

Edited by dhp123166
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The brass nubbin modified switch could be tested with an ohm-meter.  If you're waiting to install it to test it with power.  Actually, it should be tested with an ohm-meter before applying power.

The comment about shorts and erratic device operation are interesting but there are no details.  Can't tell what exactly was done.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well everyone. I modled a nubbin. Only problem is, if the part that the nubbin goes into is broken (the little ears that hold it inline) then you will have the same issues. I'm in the works to modle that part and make it. Here is the nubbin file for anyone that wants to try and make it. I'm all about helping everyone out. I did mine out of high stress PLA+, id recommend resin or somthing more dense.  Let me know if a anyone has any questions. 

Cap_2.STL

Edited by Aland.w
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  • 1 month later...

And just to prove that I can keep overthinking something, I was thinking about vacuum forming today. I did a search and found this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKRNWN2/

Now it just so happens that my wife uses similar pieces of equipment to make retainers at work. I just have to figure out how to make the mold, and I could try making nubbins.

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