280z power antenna will not go down

[Dave WM]

Makes the bump bump bump going up but no down action (motor runs but no movement on antenna). Can push down while manually while operating switch. I presume a break in the plastic line? if so is this something fixable?

Edited February 15, 2018 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

I got the tip off, I presume that is the key to extracting the snake (pull the entire top section out thru the bottom). I have not removed the unit from the car just wanted to see if I could get the tip off. Its def broken since I can move the antenna top part up and down by hand.

If that's the case I assume a monofilament must be anchored into that top section "somehow"? I have only seen pics so not sure what I will find when I get to it. Thing is am getting a new muffler

"BOSAL 280-520" to replace the OE muffler that has a hole in it now. So I will prob have to decide which to start 1st.

Edited February 15, 2018 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

found this keeping it I'm my thread so I can find again easy

 

[Dave WM]

wow that was easy, just remove the top cover remove the cotter pin on the end, get the line and attach the end pieces and reassemble fully extended. The only tip I would have is to make sure the small end piece with the hole in it is attached so the hole lines up with the cotter pin taking advantage of the natural coiled memory of the line. I don't think it would be good to induce a twist. energize with  battery from the case and one of the leads (one is up one is down) and the antenna draws right in.

[Zed Head]

This unlike Dave WM.  No details!  Where's the video?!

Did you remove the complete inner panel and just work from inside the car or did you take the motor out?  Which type of line did you use for replacement?  Probably shown in the link?

Mine still moves a few inches at a time.  Button, get out and push/pull, button, get out and push/pull.

[Dave WM]

panel out, couple screws at the base, power wires (mine used two bullets) top nut off and it comes out. unscrew the tip try not to mar it up, that way the top section that has the nylon string attached to come out. Used a little heat from a torch with the nylon held firmly in a vice, pulled it right out. Bottom have just remove the cover plate, then the 3 small phillips to expose the winding head. A cotter pin retains the end or the string, which also has a small metal end. there is a hole in it, this the only place you have to pay attention to the coil will naturally rollup. Oh and use the old one for length of course. I was going to shoot video but it would be hard to do one handed. I lubed up the rope and the workings a bit with some  lithium grease, the spray kind, I just shot some in the well before activating the motor to draw in the string. Its stupid easy to do, I considered sending off to be done for me before seeing the embedded link. Bonus points it operates prob 50% faster than before. It was a little tricky getting the drain back in, before I realized there was a soft extension piece on my drain pipe. fit that in the wheel house 1st then the drain pipe fits in to the extension piece. I may get a new top ball, the rubber gasket on the top part is beginning to crack.

[Dave WM]

Failure #1 went up and then started back down after only going a few about 1/3. Pulled it, the nylon line had doubled over and kinked. Dang. Now the stuff I got was .130 not .14 as measured, there was .155 but I was concerned about going to big. I did mess with the clutch when Ist opened it, there is a 12m nut that holds it all together. I don't know if that is a tension setting, a loosened it some, put on a new .130 line (got 20ft on the roll) reassembled and tried it again. I think its pretty important to get off the button fast going up. If it happens again I will try the .155 or at least a different brand if I can compare the hardness (OE was much harder besides being wider).

[Captain Obvious]

The nut in the center of the disk is a clutch tension. Better too loose than too tight.

If it's too loose, the clutch will slip before the mast is all the way up. But if it's too tight, the rope you are trying to push will (as you discovered) buckle.

[Dave WM]

so far so good with the replaced .130, holding off on putting all the plastic riv back in the panels.

[Dave WM]

Failure #2 happened when engine was off (lower voltage) don't know if the lower speed had anything to do with it. Pulled it up and its fully extended now, maybe the kink will relax but I doubt it. Next up will be the .155. I also found the mid 70's corvette antenna mast and line looks very much like the Datsun setup. 50$ is an expensive gamble though.

[Dave WM]

this is the one I was looking at

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352359349981?ul_noapp=true