Jump to content

IGNORED

Bringing a 1977 Z back life


Av8ferg

Recommended Posts

And it's supposed to blow out from the valve cover to get circulated back through the intake.  It connects on the big rubber accordion hose before the throttle body.

Something I ran into that was a pretty good vacuum leak was my dumbass putting the valve cover gasket on upside down.  At the front where the thermostat housing bolts on to the head is straighter than the passenger's side.  You'll see it sticking out above the thermostat housing if I remember right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ZH, I’ll check all that and see what I find.  The sound almost leads me to think a intake valve might not be on the closing and on the compression stroke th I’m getting blow back.  Is this possible?  I guess the fact that my compression checks were good other that #4 @ 145 Psi.  If a valve were stuck i guess it would be close to zero. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cliff, I didn’t know vacuum leaks could make such a difference.   I’ll get those sealed up.  Since we’re on the topic of vacuum leaks, any idea where this hose with the little dohickie attached goes?  I’ve cirecled it in green on the pic. 

41B8716B-ECA9-4C31-AAEB-91AF3F452346.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a shot of my stock 77' engine for a comparison.  Mine does not have the check valve (dohickie) that yours does. If I recall correctly, the FSM calls for one there?

02:17DSC01827.jpg

This page shows it attaching to the Thermal Vac Valve.

EC-12.jpg

Edited by gwri8
Added FSM page
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Av8ferg said:

little dohickie

That gets its vacuum source from the Thermal vacuum valve. Look under your AAR, there should be a "block" with 2 coolant lines running to it, if the PO didn't remove it. The AAR sits on top of that. At the end of the said block (cant remember its correct name) there is the thermal vacuum valve with 2 vacuum ports. One goes to that check valve you mentioned. That is not going to affect starting the vehicle. Its something you can address at a later date.

 

Just noticed in post 47 that check valve is connected but now it is not.

Edited by rcb280z
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I may have pulled it when I removed the fuel rail to clean it. Thanks for the info.  

When I pulled a spark plug and attached the spark wire to it and had my buddy crank the car I was getting a spark across the plug.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

51 minutes ago, Av8ferg said:

I was getting a spark

How good of a spark. Should be a nice blueish strong looking spark.

To me, when I watch this last video, your timing is way off. What have you done to check it? You could bring number 1 piston up on compression stroke and see if the distributor rotor is pointing to number 1 plug wire. IIRC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Av8ferg said:

I need to buy some and will try when I get back.  

You could shoot it down that hose off the valve cover but make sure to open the throttle blade so it'll get into the intake manifold.  Roll the throttle rod to the driver's side fender to open it up, squirt some in.  The reason I say that is you won't have to touch the accordion hose, those are begging to crack and expensive to replace.  Some people pull the brake booster hose off but then you've opened up the intake to unmetered air, aka "vacuum leak".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.