Av8ferg Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share #181 Posted February 23, 2018 ThIs ECU test I need to do I think also. I’m fairly confident that since my relay tested good, wiring is lookig good, drop resistors look okay that this test might tell me a lot, Where do I get one of the light testers for the injector wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted February 23, 2018 Share #182 Posted February 23, 2018 I think that they call those test lights "noid" lights. Not sure why. I've seen them with two prongs that you can just plug right in to a two wire plug. Any auto parts store would have them. The ECU swap would be a quick easy test. When my 1978 ECU died, it just died completely. I popped in at my house, started the engine, and took off down the rode to give it a run, and the engine coughed once and died about a half mile away. It restarted and I turned around to get back home. It died 2 or 3 more times then wouldn't restart. I was close enough to jog home and get the original to put back in. I'm not suggesting the the switch from 76 to 78 caused it to die. I replaced a part in the 78 ECU and it worked fine after that. Might be why the car sat for 10 years then was sold for parts. I bought it for $300 from a guy who couldn't keep it running. I've had several different numbers in my 76 since then. Maybe I'll pull the box down and list them. Here's an example of the light. But, you can make them from Christmas tree bulbs also, the small ones with two wires. Haven't done it but I've heard about it. FastWoman wrote about them. https://www.oreillyauto.com/search/1977/chevrolet/camaro?q=noid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8ferg Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share #183 Posted February 23, 2018 Thank you. It will be awhile until I can work on he car again but with the help of everyone on his forum I feel I have a solid path forward. I think I’m getting close and I’ve leared a heck of a lot in this process. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted February 23, 2018 Share #184 Posted February 23, 2018 Nice, thankful people will get all the help they can stand on here. I know they all took me in even though I wasn't too knowledgeable on Zs in the beginning. This forum is as much fun as driving mine. 8^) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 23, 2018 Share #185 Posted February 23, 2018 (edited) 7 hours ago, Av8ferg said: Looking through forums I’m getting mixed information on ECU compatibility. This one states you cannot put an automatic ECU on a manual car but that you can put a manual ECU on an automatic car. ? http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/3738-needed-ecu-76-280z-manual-trans.html The A11 600 000 is the manual version and the 601 is automatc version. Nissan don't mention any difference between the auto or the manual in their part numbers. Unfortunatly they didn't mark the ECU with their number, so tracing the ecu to their part number is not easy if at all. No csv seems strange. An auto is no easier to start when its cold so why would they delete it? The very early 280Z up to April 75 had a Bosch unit (B, after that they are all JECS (J I thought they were interchangable up to August 77. The units after August 77 don't have the terminal 20 for fuel injection relay. They changed the relay to a two separate relay system in the engine bay and used the oil sensor to activate it. The switch in the AFM is no longer used. I think I posted a photo of ghe two AFM's earlier in this thread. They also introduced a califorian version which had an altitude switch. I have a 5/77 280Z with a ECU out of a 6/76 and it runs without issues. My car is a manual and the donor 6/76 also. Edited February 23, 2018 by EuroDat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 23, 2018 Share #186 Posted February 23, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcb280z Posted February 24, 2018 Share #187 Posted February 24, 2018 23 minutes ago, EuroDat said: They also introduced a califorian version which had an altitude switch. And a pain to get to. Drivers side of the dash up inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcb280z Posted February 24, 2018 Share #188 Posted February 24, 2018 37 minutes ago, EuroDat said: I thought they were interchangable up to August 77 I just looked at my microfiche and don't see any reference one way or another so I would believe they are interchangeable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted February 24, 2018 Share #189 Posted February 24, 2018 I vaguely remember conversations about the CSV pins in the ECU. I think that we decided that Nissan had made some undocumented changes. Many of the ECUs are missing quite a few pins that the wiring diagram shows they should have. The EFI and Fuel Pump relays were split but I'm not sure the ECU actually doesn't anything with them. Here's an old thread. Found it on Google and it's one of those vague memories. Looks like CO had some firm thoughts on it. Nissan developed an analyzer that plugged in to the ECU connector. In 78 they did identify AFM pins that had no function though, so don't know why they couldn't add a comment about those pins if they were for the analyzer. I could see, maybe, a BCDD difference between automatic and manual. Or the fuel cut function, which is controlled by the ECU. But, worst case, I think that something just works slightly differently, probably an emissions function. EFI, generally, was developed for emissions purposes anyway, to start. It's primary purpose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8ferg Posted March 16, 2018 Author Share #190 Posted March 16, 2018 Gents, I’m back working on the Z today. I’ve made some progress but I’m not there yet. Fuel tank is currently off get boiled and relined and painted ($350)...ouch. I installed the new fuel relay and also the other ECU I had in my parts bin. (It was the one from a 78). If you recall you guys let me know that the one I had in was for a automatic car and mine is a manual. This swap seems to have fixed some of my issues. So now when I turn the key to start the fuel pump is finally operating normally. I also put a noid light on each injector wite and they all checked good. I hooked a bucket and fuel can to take the place of my fuel tank and tried to start the car. No luck. Fuel pressure hit around 35 psi but no turn over. It’s odd, I’m getting what appears to be some back flow through the hose coming off the valve cover and get a hiss sound from the engine when this happens about once every revolution or so. It also has a slight burnt smell. I don’t know what it could be? I can’t figure out why the car is not getting ignition either. I’ve tested the coil and the spark at the plugs. All that seems to be working. The only thing I can think of is the timing is way off. Here is a link to a video I just posted. I’d love you hear everyone’s opinion. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted March 16, 2018 Share #191 Posted March 16, 2018 It does sound like the timing might be advanced. There are two lines on the adjustment plate that might get it close if you don't have a timing light. You can also compare the edge of the reluctor "star" wheel with the metal strip on the pickup coil and see where the damper pulley mark is. You said that you can hear air hissing thorough a hose and it looks like your PCV hose might be loose. All of the hoses need to be connected. The crankcase is connected to the intake manifold and will cause a vacuum leak if it's not sealed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted March 16, 2018 Share #192 Posted March 16, 2018 Here's a picture of where the two lines are on the distributor mount that you can match up. From a guy with carbs, but a similar no-start problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarb
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