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Starting problem


SeKcGamer

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1 hour ago, esmit208 said:

One of the smallest particles is enough to cause drivability issues.

If I had a carb'ed car I'd use the big giant EFI filter before them.  I've been spoiled.  The filter is big so that the pressure drop is small, since the filter media area is huge.

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Update: here's what I did, I ended up dropping the tank and replaced all filters and fuel pump, put acetone in the tank maybe 5 times to clean it out then I poured the red kote in as directed. I did all this Saturday. Today(Tuesday) I put everything back together and put fuel in(about two gallons), and let it circulate fuel before starting her on. The car turned on and ran like it used to. I drove it to the gas station to put in like 5 gallons of supreme. After that I test drove a little more and that's when I started getting a problem again. When I would accelerate and kept giving it fuel the car would stop taking the fuel and a couple seconds later it would start to take it. But it started happening more consecutively so I knew something was up. Any thoughts?

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1. acetone will not dissolve or loosen rust. it is mostly for thinning-cleaning paints and epoxy's etc. muratic acid will clean the rust.

2. redkote needs about 5-6 days to cure, depending on the temperature. if you can smell it, it isnt cured. 3-4 days doesnt seem long enough

3. did you clean out all the lines coming out of the tank? did you blow air through them after doing the redkote? they may be plugged worse now

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The acetone is for evaporating the water rinse out before you apply the red-kote.  Acid then baking soda mixed with water, then acetone and finally the red-kote.

I let mine sit for at least a week then temporarily installed a glass filter to see if any "pink gas" was flowing through my system.

You can see it in this picture at the beginning of the fuel rail.

SDC10703.JPG

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anotha update:I recently installed a new set of injectors(lifetime warranty) and a fuel pressure regulator. Every time it starts up immediately then when I drive it out maybe less than a quarter mile it drops in fuel pressure(down to 10psi) and when I when I returned to my house a parked it but didn't turn it off it was still running 10 and wanted to die. I've noticed when I drive it and I'm giving it gas that it will all the suddenly not want to take anymore then all of the sudden the rpms come back up and starts driving. And it happens consistently as I drive, it'll happen more and more. But today was swapping out the injectors with new ones and a new fuel pressure regulator day. I'm really confused. I've asked my auto teacher about it when I ran into him the other day at a store and he had a lot to say and was trying to narrow down what it could be. I told him about the rust and everything that had happen and he told me I didn't have to change the injectors because if one of them were clogged than more of them should too if rust particles were to have gotten that far.


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Idles fine, no misfiring, no smoke, some soot.Image1502591201.241036.thumb.jpg.1be239a2e45f59da01c60dee795b5a22.jpg

Image1502591262.111123.thumb.jpg.c6e6144c7f3b511dd4b2e551cc351a44.jpg

New fuel regulator and injectors. When the car idles I do notice that my fuel gauge jumps around a lot from 32 to 30 a lot and even hits 29 at some times. But as soon as you want to drive it, I guess the better way to put it is that it stalls and doesn't get the direct power anymore. Which is very confusing as to what the problem maybe now.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, SeKcGamer said:

 I guess the better way to put it is that it stalls and doesn't get the direct power anymore.

That's not really a very good way to describe anything.  From your previous posts, the drop to 10 psi is your main problem.  That should never happen.  Either you're losing power to the fuel pump, or the fuel pump is bad and not spinning fast enough, or you have an obstruction in the supply to the pump.  Focus on the pump and its power and fuel supply,

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