1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build - Page 124 - Build Threads - Classic Z Car Club Skip to content

1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

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It doesn't really smoke in a normal scenario. It does smoke some on acceleration. I had the head done 40 years ago but the machinist didn't replace the guides. He reamed them to save me money. So it's possible that guide is sloppy now. Plus the valve seals are 40 yo now...

I like the pretty new head Astrohog has. I might just do that sooner then later and then build a block to go under it

  • Author

@inline6

Garrett what did you ever do to resolve your air filter not being thick enough. I don't recall the solution and I have the same problem...

  • Author

So I need to change the dash pot oil. On acceleration it's too lean 14.7 - 15.1.

So they currently have transmission fluid in them. What would the next step up be?

Chat gpt is pretty good. I am getting hooked on it.

https://chatgpt.com/s/t_6a0a437b9b608191ad3f471c8cb51968

Oil Type

Approx. Viscosity

Effect on Throttle Response

Best Use

Sewing machine oil / 3-in-1

Very light (~5W)

Fast piston rise, leaner tip-in

Warm climates, highly modified engines

ATF / Marvel Mystery Oil

Light (~7.5W–10W)

Crisp response

Close to factory feel

10W engine oil

Medium-light

Good balance

Factory spec for many Datsuns

20W oil / 20W fork oil

Medium

Richer acceleration

Mild hesitation or flat spot

30W oil

Medium-heavy

Slower piston rise, richer tip-in

Hot weather, stock engines

20W-50

Heavy

Strong enrichment

Worn engines or persistent stumble

No oil

None

Very lean/quick

Race-only experimentation

Edited by emccallum

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  • Author

That's pretty cool. My wife uses AI all the time. I'm not there yet, but those results are impressive!

Are you guys really looking at and absorbing the AI "stuff".

If 7.5W - 10W is light how can 10W be medium-light?

What does "good balance" even mean? (Nothing).

Richer tip-in? Has no meaning. Richer acceleration? Feels like it has meaning but when you really think about it it doesn't.

Are the recommendations to fix a "best use" or to avoid it? "Close to factory feel" and "hot weather" and "flat spot" are all under Best Use.

The AI's are designed to make the users feel good. Like a drug. Apparently an addictive drug, Don't overdo them!

image.png

Check out the Sources. They're the usual suspects. The AI just blends them all together and excretes something that looks authoritative.

image.png

Edited by Zed Head

Sorry for the rant. I worry about being surrounded by people on their phones asking them what to think.

Here's an example of how detailed experience gets distilled down to something by "AI". You can see the pieces that remain, like unchewed kernels of corn or chewed gum, in the AI response.

This guy Keith Williams seems well known in Datsun world. Why not just read his original material? It seems more informative than what the "super-brain" produced.

Anyway, it looks like experimentation is required. Good luck.

https://www.311s.org/su-setup/su-setup.html

Dashpot Oil

 

On acceleration the mixture needs to be richer or you will get stumbling. The oil in the dash pot slows the rise of the piston. The piston being lower than it wants to be causes the mixture to be rich. Generally speaking you want to use the thinnest oil that stops stumbling on acceleration. Roadsters tend to be quite tolerant of running rich so thicker is better than thinner. However, too thick will over richen and cause the acceleration to feel flat. The correct thickness will have a crisp acceleration. The factory spec is 10w. That is in the range of ATF and MMO. 3 in 1 is thinner. In one Z I did I ended up with 50w before it would accelerate cleanly. The synthetic oils do tend to be thinner than regular oils so I'm not sure what the "real" viscosity of the synthetic is. Motorcycle fork oil works well, comes in convenient bottles, and in lots of weights. Single weight engine oil comes in 20, 30, 40, and 50 weight but I haven't seen 10w. If you're being fiddly you can mix weights to come up with in between weights. I use fork oil for the thinner weights and single weight engine for the thicker.

 

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