Since Cody finished getting my horns working, I wanted to get a horn pad fixed. I had one that had a cracked inner ring. I had made a metal band to go around it but I didn't really like how it worked.

Steve Nixon at 240zrubberparts molds a replacement inner ring part.

I cleaned out the horn and epoxied the new ring into the horn. I really only used epoxy on the bottom portion.

This left a gap around the outside of the new ring to the foam of the horn pad. I ordered some SIKA self leveling joint sealant. It's available at Home Depot or you can get it from Amazon

I set the horn pad down on a level surface and filled the joint. It's best to put some in and let it rest for 15 minutes or so. Then add some more. It will keep settling until the joint is fully filled. I wiped off the excess and let it cure. This is the finished product. Very solid!!

So I have been working on the interior hatch panels.

I have the Resurrected Classics kit for the Early cars

The panels look good and are solid but much thicker than stock. The new panels are softer than stock too. The original panels are very stiff and brittle

New panel thickness

Old panel thickness

Panel pin part number

I also worked on the glove box some. I had to order some screws from BelMetric. I need to shim the lock down some and the stock screws are not long enough. I also needed some screws for the heater panel. I put a junky panel I had in it for now until I get a better one on hand. The strike on the glove box is slotted which makes it adjustable

A bit in a 1/4" socket and a thumb ratchet makes the work around the box much easier

Here is the glove box door installed. It has a chip in the upper corner and I will replace it in the future. It is also not exactly adjusted correctly. It would be nice to come up with a solution to keep these doors from warping from the glove box light. I have four all with the same warpage. Make a metal brace inside of the door?

I will restore the badge and install it later. For now I have a place for registration and the lug nut lock adapter

Rear interior panels

Because of the thickness of the panels some of the pins aren't long enough to hold. If I was going to do it again, I would probably thin the panels in selective areas. I used a die grinder with a 2 inch Rolok to trim them and I could have thinned them at the mounting points to make them fit a little better. It is nice the repops are available but I think a nice set of factory panels would actually be superior. They are stiffer and just fit more precisely overall. Although they are fragile. The leather on the strut towers also makes the panels a little tighter. The leather and padding is significantly thicker than the OE vinyl would have been. I ran out of pins, so not everything is installed. The interior pins are really kind of expensive. Especially if you have to push them out and lose the center pins...

Threw a piece of carpet I had in the hatch and some floor mat pieces

Toe kick panels in place

Hatch panel waiting on pins

Drip rail trim on. I had to use a rubber mallet. It chipped some of the paint off going on but no chips are visible. Excessive paint build up there is not your friend!

Yellow (or, at least, the right yellow) always looks great on a Z.

It's coming together nicely! Put a LED bulb in the glove box to reduce the heat that warps the door.

Looking good Charles.

So someone check my reasoning:

I am trying to tune Lily. The mixture was lean according to the O2 sensor. So I adjusted the float bowls several times. It got some better

But the idle is still pretty high even with the idle screws all the way out, not touching. About 1500 rpms. We've looked at the butterflies with a boroscope. They seem to seal pretty well. So I'm thinking "unmetered air". I have sprayed it down with Ether while running and it did seem to increase some around the manifold gasket but no run away leak. We tightened the bolts and it came down a couple hundred rpms, but still not low enough. So I guess I will pull everything off and reseal it with RTV???

Did you spray around the throttle shaft bushings?

Yes, the carb are Ztherapy cabs and have been rebushed.

Sprayed the manifold gasket area, balance tube & plugs, capped the booster port, sprayed the carb gaskets and the throttle bushings

1 hour ago, Patcon said:

But the idle is still pretty high even with the idle screws all the way out, not touching. About 1500 rpms. We've looked at the butterflies with a boroscope. They seem to seal pretty well. So I'm thinking "unmetered air". I have sprayed it down with Ether while running and it did seem to increase some around the manifold gasket but no run away leak. We tightened the bolts and it came down a couple hundred rpms, but still not low enough. So I guess I will pull everything off and reseal it with RTV???

First question... Are you sure the linkage isn't hanging up somewhere? If you disconnect the throttle linkage rod from the balance tube, does the problem still persist? I assume it does, but I have to ask.

I'm also concerned that you tightened up the carb mounting bolts and got multiple hundreds of RPM change. That should not happen. So maybe your gaskets aren't sealing well for some reason?

Next, with the butterflies completely closed, the engine should not run. Regardless of whether there is a vacuum leak or not. If you're running at 1500 RPM, then you're pulling enough air through the carbs to pick up enough fuel to support that. In other words.... Your butterflies are not sealed as well as you think they are.

Those butterflies should be able to close "pretty much completely" when the idle screws are backed off enough not to contact the linkage. If they don't close to pretty much seal off the carb throat, then I suspect they butterfly plates are not installed correctly.

10 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

First question... Are you sure the linkage isn't hanging up somewhere? If you disconnect the throttle linkage rod from the balance tube, does the problem still persist? I assume it does, but I have to ask.

I'm also concerned that you tightened up the carb mounting bolts and got multiple hundreds of RPM change. That should not happen. So maybe your gaskets aren't sealing well for some reason?

Next, with the butterflies completely closed, the engine should not run. Regardless of whether there is a vacuum leak or not. If you're running at 1500 RPM, then you're pulling enough air through the carbs to pick up enough fuel to support that. In other words.... Your butterflies are not sealed as well as you think they are.

Those butterflies should be able to close "pretty much completely" when the idle screws are backed off enough not to contact the linkage. If they don't close to pretty much seal off the carb throat, then I suspect they butterfly plates are not installed correctly.

All good points. I'll keep that in mind. Can the engine pull the butterflies open? I wouldn't think so