I also appear to have a dragging brake. The left rear is getting pretty hot.

I put some miles on it this weekend and the fronts were about 105F. The right rear was about 125F. The left rear was almost 200F. I thought it might be the Ebrake caliper dragging but I took it off entirely and it still gets warm. I am assuming it the left rear caliper and not the axle since it seems to be sided. I had wondered if it could be check valves in the master but that doesn't seem to fit the situation...

Otherwise it drove pretty good. I experimented with spark curves some. It's surprising @AK260 if I switch to Ali's tune it pulls alot harder but won't idle with out a little choke. He has about 6 degrees more advance all in. The car pulls alot better like that. I really need to find a Dyno close to me to do some finish tuning

So I think I have the rear brake heat solved. Wilwood said the caliper has to be centered on the rotor. They said there is only a 0.020" tolerance

I checked it and it was off to the outside. So I made some sheet metal shims that were about 20 thousands. They were tough to install but that centers the rotor, less about 0.005"

We drove it yesterday and all of the rotors were with in 10d F of each other.

I seem to have another issue. The car seems to run out of fuel when you rev it up high and go through the gears. About 5k in 2nd gear the AFR's go lean and the car quits pulling.

My suspicion is fuel pump or a restriction in the fuel system. I coated the fuel tank with a sealant and I wonder if the free flow area of the pickup line has been reduced.

I will probably rig up a temp tank in the front seat and see if the lack of fuel goes away

.

Are you running an electric fuel pump or a mechanical? I use the 0-30 PSI gauge from this brand in my fuel injected 260Z to monitor fuel pressure - https://www.maxtow.com/black-green-maxtow-15-psi-fuel-pressure-gauge/

I seem to recall an old post about the aftermarket mechanical pumps not making good contact with the eccentric.

See if it'll go up a steep incline. Are there any mountains in the Carolinas?

Mine ran out the bowls going up Cheaha Mountain that's when I knew the levels weren't high enough.

FYI, a 2.5 gallon jug fits perfect in front of the radiator on the passenger's side.

I am running a mechanical pump

So I have an interesting ignition problem. The black switch which was in the car and keyed properly, when turned to lock still has power going through it and some times it will bump the starter if it's returned to lock too fast. I have taken it out and tried a different switch but I am getting similar results. I ordered a new switch from MAazon. It will be here Monday. If it does it too, I have no idea how to proceed...

If I need to rekey an ignition lock, how do I get to the tumblers?

This switch is actually for a smaller diameter steering column. 510 Maybe??

@SteveJ

I know we discussed over rotation but I've tried 3 different switches. I think the problem lies elsewhere. Any ideas?

Off hand, I can't think of where the problem could be outside of the switch.

2 hours ago, SteveJ said:

Off hand, I can't think of where the problem could be outside of the switch.

Glitchy relay??

3 hours ago, Patcon said:

Glitchy relay??

I'm not sure what relay you could be talking about. The black/yellow wire is the circuit that energizes the solenoid. In a manual car, it's a home-run from the key switch to the solenoid. If you're running the engine harness I worked on, I know that was an automatic transmission harness, so it had the break in the circuit for the neutral safety switch on the transmission. All I did was join the two wire ends together essentially making the starting circuit wired like a manual transmission circuit. The only place it could get power would be from the key switch unless there are some modifications in the dash harness on that car.

37 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

I'm not sure what relay you could be talking about. The black/yellow wire is the circuit that energizes the solenoid. In a manual car, it's a home-run from the key switch to the solenoid. If you're running the engine harness I worked on, I know that was an automatic transmission harness, so it had the break in the circuit for the neutral safety switch on the transmission. All I did was join the two wire ends together essentially making the starting circuit wired like a manual transmission circuit. The only place it could get power would be from the key switch unless there are some modifications in the dash harness on that car.

I am running the engine harness I stole out of the brown Z. I never replaced it with the harness you reworked for me. I was thinking there is a relay that provides power to the main systems like the coil?

If I turn it quickly to the lock position, the car will continue to run, but not as nicely