Did you say these were freshies from ZTherapy? If so I guess you could try asking Steve @ Ztherapy. When I got mine I just bolted them up, didn't change a thing and they run just fine, idle and all. My elevation is base 4,500 ft and up from there to about 6,500 ft. I think my carbs are a little rich for this elevation. I can stand a little rich, it helps to keep the heat down.

14 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

Heavier oil = richer mixture.

Kinda sorta, but in theory, only on transition. Running steady state, the oil viscosity should not have any effect at all.

The impact of the oil would be most pronounced on increased throttle position, like when you punch it.

3 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Kinda sorta, but in theory, only on transition. Running steady state, the oil viscosity should not have any effect at all.

The impact of the oil would be most pronounced on increased throttle position, like when you punch it.

And it keeps the dashpot from bouncing off the ceiling of the dome assembly, like when you punch it.

Edited May 3May 3 by w3wilkes

1 hour ago, w3wilkes said:

Did you say these were freshies from ZTherapy? If so I guess you could try asking Steve @ Ztherapy.?

These were redone by Steve in either 2011 or 2014. Probably 2011. I can read the engravings. So I would think throttle shaft linkage wouldn't be an issue but they have sat for extended periods of time. I did go through them and clean them when recommissioning this engine

Here's a couple pics of stuff I have here. Idle screw not touching the linkage:

This carb closes down pretty far, but I've seen them close down even further. So I took a look at the linkage over by the stop screw, and it looks like on this carb, the tang on the linkage may be contacting the carb body a little bit even when the idle stop screw is backed out beyond contact.

Take a look at yours and see if maybe you've got something like that going on with yours. Might just have to bend the tank down a tiny bit to provide a little more clearance?

On 4/18/2026 at 6:01 AM, Patcon said:

I rekeyed a glove box lock a while back but couldn't locate it. So I dug through my stuff and found another lock that would take the key I'm using and rekeyed it

Grind the end of the pin off and drive it out.

You have to press it in a little to get the hook out and the same for reassembly

Hi Patcon,

Your beautiful car has been almost completely assembled, a few more small things left, please keep us updated.

The glove box lock mechanism, I have never thought about it, I have learned now thank you.

I had a trouble with my car last week, I couldn’t find out why the battery died. I finally got it because the glove box door was unintentionally opened and the illumination was on maybe more than 24 hours. I need to fix it.

Kats

Carbs appear to have been done by Steve in 2011

I pulled everything off the head. No 4 exhaust is really oily!

I found one of my air leaks. The seal on the balance tube missed one of the holes

I have started reassembling the header and intake. I'm going naked. No gasket, just RTV. Troy Ermish told me he did it this way. I ordered an all copper gasket and based on email communications it is coming from Asia if I ever receive it

I may try to get the carbs on tomorrow. I did some work on the butterflies to make them close better. So hopefully when it's all together I can make it idle properly with the right AFR's

Edited May 15May 15 by Patcon

Cool. Hope that balance tube and the butterfly adjustments take care of the idle issue.

Now.... About that oily cylinder. What's up with that???

Oh, and I'm a little skeptical about the RTV only thing, but I'm hoping it's unfounded!

18 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Now.... About that oily cylinder. What's up with that???

I'm not sure. Rusty cylinder walls and blowby but the compression numbers are all good. So I think not.

So mybe bad valve guide and seal??

19 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Oh, and I'm a little skeptical about the RTV only thing, but I'm hoping it's unfounded!

Yeah, we'll see. Not to worried about intake leaks. Header leaks are a bigger concern. Worst case I develop a leak and need to redo it. All the fasteners are new and clean, so not real difficult

7 minutes ago, Patcon said:

I'm not sure. Rusty cylinder walls and blowby but the compression numbers are all good. So I think not.

So mybe bad valve guide and seal??

That would have to be a really bad guide to pass that much oil.

Did it smoke while running? I'm thinking maybe stuck or faulty oil ring?