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240z Steering Play


HuD 91gt

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Today I did a bit more hunting for u-joints that might fit the smaller staked style 15mm size. I'm afraid I have bad news.

I looked at Motor Master's web site, as they seem to be a huge supplier of ujoints for all ATV-like machinery, and found the specs for the ATV700

MotorMaster

I then called them and asked if they had a catalogue with specs for all their u-joints that I could peruse at my leisure to find one that fits, but the nice lady said "tell me the specs and I'll tell you if we have it" so I said, "Same as the ATV700 but with a 15mm bearing OD instead of 16mm". She had a look and announced the ATV700 has the smallest bearing of all the u-joints they have......

I did find a couple of useful things on their site though: This about staked ujoints and how to upgrade them to clip style.

http://motormasterpowersports.com/UserFiles/File/What%20is_Staked-In.pdf

and one picture I found very interesting.

post-12190-14150830142824_thumb.jpg

Who says you have to have the zerk in the cross? Hell, just drill a cap!! I think my bits can handle that..

Maybe there's hope of reviving those little u-joints after all if we can't replace 'em!

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No carbide bits in the house. I believe this is an excuse to go buy some however!

Yes, schrapnel from the hole may be an issue, must drill "just' through.

On the 16mm caps, I tend to agree on the likelyhood of the ends being hardened too, but the 15mm caps looks decidely less "robust". They are quite a different construction type. They almost appear to be a shell wrapped around a core (the actual race), so maybe the ends of the cap are soft. Could be me just being optomistic, but until I lay bit to cap, I'll reserve judgement.

Edited by zKars
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I just did quick google search for "small u-joint" and found this at The U-Joint Store, it's a 15mm x 40mm steering u-joint for Dodge, Chevrolet , Jeep and Ford application:

Steering ujoint for Dodge, Chevrolet , Jeep and Ford (15mmx40mm)

I don't know if the size is referring to the cap OD but maybe we will be lucky.

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Nice bind CanTech! Now who would have thought there would be a u-joint store? Surprised there isn't a smallujoints.com....

Steering Ujoints

oh oh... The part description shows both 15x40 AND 16x40.... Wonder which one is right....

I see they stock the infamous ATV700 as well, though the price is NOT the best in town....

Edited by zKars
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If they wrapped a non-hardened shell around a hardened cylinder, then drilling it would be a breeze. But if these new ones pan out, of course that would be even easier.

With the new ones, while they're off the car before you install, you might test the hardness with a file. If you're going to drill for a zerk, you could pull the caps off to clean out any chips. Of course, there's no guarantee that there's the same passageways in the bodies of new ones, right? You'll have to pull a cap or two to check.

Either way, this could be a great find! New non-greaseable ones are still better than old dry non-greaseable ones. Keep us posted! :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm Baaaaaack..

Something came in the mail yesterday. It's a lovely 15x40mm u-joint. I believe we have a staked u-joint replacement option. Way to find a good one CanTechZ!

post-12190-14150830332387_thumb.jpg

I've confirmed the cap OD is nearly identical to the stockers.

I have not yet done the actual replacement on a real live specimen (some one elses Z keeps getting in the way...) , but have started the process.

Truth #1. You cannot disassemble the yokes without distroying the u-joint. You can't drive the caps inward far enough to get press the opposite one out far enough to grab it to remove it.

Good thing there is enough room to cut right through the yoke legs with a 4 1/2" cut off wheel. Once the yoke center section is gone, just pound the caps through to the middle to remove them.

post-12190-14150830332996_thumb.jpg

Begin by cleaning the cap area very well (sand blasted in the pictures) then dremeling off the little peened in ears with a small carbide rotary bit.

post-12190-14150830333496_thumb.jpg

post-12190-14150830333999_thumb.jpg

Remove the yoke by cutting through the legs with a cut off wheel.

Clean up the staked areas to ensure no protusion into the cap bore.

Put new yoke in, pound in new caps from the outside.

Put steering shaft back in car.

About the only fly in the ointment at this point is how to retain the caps in the ujoint. There is no provision for clips of any sort, and the 40mm length puts the cap pretty flush with the yoke face (I think, have not done this yet), not sunk like the stockers with room for staking

-Spot weld cap to yoke body.

-Fill whatever small depression exists at the cap with epoxy?

-drill and thread a hole in the side of the yoke (x 4) for a small set screw?

-put head in sand and assume these will never work their way out in your lifetime?

Please add to the list of brilliance I know you are all capable of.

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i would think you could just peen over the edges of the yoke at the perimeter where the u-joint cap is, you won't need very much at all to hold it in place, especially with a press-fit to begin with. i'm guessing if you use a punch in 4 places you could get it to work just fine. or just use a ballpeen hammer and go around the edge with the other end of the yoke supported on a vice.

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I'm Baaaaaack..

Something came in the mail yesterday. It's a lovely 15x40mm u-joint. I believe we have a staked u-joint replacement option. Way to find a good one CanTechZ!

Good news, however I should not take the credit for this. I was doing a search a few days ago and found that Chas had already found this source last year, see post #2 here:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/49584-steering-rack-u-joint-fix.html

On behalf of the group, thanks Chas:)

Mike

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