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R-T diff mount Group Buy


Zs-ondabrain

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Good stuff. Next thing to try is an extra quarter or 3/8 inch on the bumpstop over the diff. You would obviously need a jack to press up on the bumpstop to get the diff mounted into place. Might be a nice track mod. Probably wouldn't be noticeable cruising around. Figure we all have an extra bump since they come in pairs...
Actually, I did just that. I cut my bumpstop so that it is already applying firm pressure at all times. Had to squish it a bit during install. Did that on purpose to firm things up as much as possible. Seems to work well that way, and I notice no increase in NVH over stock.
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Actually, I did just that. I cut my bumpstop so that it is already applying firm pressure at all times. Had to squish it a bit during install. Did that on purpose to firm things up as much as possible. Seems to work well that way, and I notice no increase in NVH over stock.

:cool: I'm doing that then. Figure the solid diff mounts used in racing show you can go to zero movement so I figure what you did is the proverbial "Goldilocks Zone".

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Actually, I did just that. I cut my bumpstop so that it is already applying firm pressure at all times. Had to squish it a bit during install. Did that on purpose to firm things up as much as possible. Seems to work well that way, and I notice no increase in NVH over stock.

Did you put any bushing grease on the bump stop before install? I was wondering if it would squeek without it? I will definitely be using this method.

Marty

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Update on my installation of Dave's RT mount into my 70 240z: I changed all the stuff in the back to bring her up to current specs. New 72 driveshaft ,mustache bar, hangers 72 diff mount and went ahead and decided to install the RT mount. I was using the bump stop so Rich(MOTORMAN7) and I were doing the same thing but with different methods. I could see that if I installed the mount as advertised that the bump stop would be rubbing against the moving yoke on the front of the diff.....It wasn't going to be far enough back to contact the top of the front of the diff where it is supposed to hit. I flipped the mount around and drilled a hole symmetrically on the other side but even a little farther toward what is now the back of the reversed bracket to get all the rearward movement I could get (the bump stop actually had the edge hanging off about 3/8 of an inch). No problem......I cut off the 3/4 inch that Arne suggested....bolted the awesome bracket up and when everything went together it worked beautiful (I also used the new stock 72 diff mount for double duty). The car drives like a dream.....no noise no bumps and no vibration with one exception. When I nailed the little monster for all she's worth I got a vibration-grinding noise under my butt.....only when you really nail it though. I brought her back and took a look. Here's the problem...when you reverse the bracket in the early cars the little support metal bar on the bracket now lays 3/8's of an inch above that little spinning yoke on the front of the diff.....So...when you really nail it as I tend to do from time to time, you squeeze the bump stop enough to make slight contact with the spinning metal yoke. I'm going to try to drop the drive shaft and Dremel out the area above the yoke. So if anyone is doing this mount in an early car I would suggest grinding an area out for clearance. Rich...you can take a look at yours and see if that support rail is directly above your yoke. Great job on the mount though Dave....You are the man! Guy

Edited by Diseazd
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Undoubtably the best bang for the buck that you can install in your Datsun! This thing really does what's it supposed to. The bump stop is the way to go as far as simplicity. Use both the original and the bump stop for best results (damps the unit). Dave ......your product as usual is superb! Guy

Edited by Diseazd
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  • 11 months later...

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