Clutch slave cylinder adjustment

[JoelH]

I had the same experience when I replaced my clutch slave last year. It felt better when it didn't work. It felt more spongey when I adjusted it to work properly. I got used to it and it didn't give me any problems.

[Arne]

So we appear to have pinned this change in feel on the currently available slave cylinders. I've rather suspected this was the case, but it's good to have some confirmation. As I've noted in a different thread, all the currently available slave cylinders with the early style adjustable pushrods are 11/16" bore. Some early factory information (including my 1971-printed FSM) says that the original slaves were 5/8" bore. That (or other recent design changes) could explain it.

[dhayes5]

I put a '83zxb 5-speed in my 240z last fall. I don't drive the car much and had not noticed this before but here and there when coming to a stop, I get a click through the clutch pedal. When inspecting the slave, I noticed one nut on the inside of the slave cylinder shaft and one on the outside -- effectively capturing the clutch fork. I think this is wrong and that the two nuts should be on the slave cylinder side one to be used as a lock nut and none on the opposite side (or toward the back of the car) of the clutch fork. Anyone have a photo or description on how these nuts should be installed?

[Zed Head]

There's a diagram in the FSM that indicates you are right. The two nuts go between the fork and the slave cylinder, as a locked set.

[jonbill]

Well I'm glad I found this thread, I was about to adjust my clutch by disconnecting the yoke and unscrewing it from the rod!

[EuroDat]

Old posts with a lot of information on how to adjust the clutch, but not all acurate.

The correct method is:

1. Adjust the pedal free travel according to the manual, with 1 to 5mm free travel.

2. Remove slave cylinder return spring.

3. Loosen the two nuts (Yes, both on slave cylinder side of fork. One is the adjusting nut and the thin nut is to lock it into place).

4. Adjust nut until all free play is removed.

5. Back off nut 1.5 turns (approx 2 to 3mm of free travel).

6. Lock the two nuts and check free travel

7. Fit return spring.

Seems very much like the above posts are trying to adjust the later version slave cylinder in an early model setup. The later version has an internal spring and is self adjusting when fitted with the corresponding pushrod. It requires a different method of adjustment when combined with the early pushrod and you should not use the external spring in this setup.

If you use the later version slave cylinder with the adjustable pushrod, do the following.

1. Loosen lock nuts.

2. Loosen the two nuts (both on slave cylinder side of fork).

3. Adjust first nut until all free play is gone.

4. Check that you can push the push rod into the slave cilinder about 10 - 12mm. Note: If you can not do this, then you have overtightened the adjusting nut or someone has removed the internal spring. Check the slave cylinder internals.

5. Screw adjusting nut a further two turns.

6. Tighten lock nut. Check you can still push the push rod into the slave cylinder about 8 - 10mm.

 

 

Edited September 2, 2021 by EuroDat