Wheels & Brakes
Discussions about different wheel & tire combinations and the affects on a Zcar.
2,054 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
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So, I start fooling with the brakes on The Turd today. Still banging away on the rear drums. Thanks to Anthonyg, I have backups for when I give up being gentle but firm and take the sawzall to those bastards. While taking a break from the brakes, I sit inside the car and push on the pedal. Hard as a rock. Not what I expected. I thought that the pedal would go to the floor from the M/C being nearly empty on both reservoirs. The car has been siting for 18-19 years and there was a hydraulic leak in the brake system when i parked it. Anyone with this experience think that I have a bad booster or is the M/C rod stuck? A new M/C was in the plan. A booster was not.
Last reply by oldhemi, -
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I have an intermittent problem with my 240z. More often than not I experience a shimmy, translated through the steering wheel on braking. I had the rotors turned and I replaced the pads but the problem has returned. I'm planing on trying a better grade of brake pad and cleaning the rotors with sandpaper. What type of pad would be best for normal to agressive street driving? Are high metalic content or ceramic pads an option?
Last reply by ZCurves, -
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The brake rotors (that are rusty from the car sitting for 25 years untouched) that are on my 71 240z say they should not be turned down below 10.5mm. They measure at 10.5mm. Is this likely because they have already been turned or is this the original measurement? (For what it's worth I already ordered new rotors so this question is largely academic - when I get them I'll have a better idea what to expect from new) Mark
Last reply by woytovich, -
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I'm looking for a new set of wheels for 1980 280ZX. Stock are the spoke magnesium type flaking very badly. Not sure of wheel width. Any ideas? Tire size is 195/70/R14. Want a No modification solution with sticky tires. Street use only, but I like to drive somewhat hard at times.
Last reply by Pie-in the sky, -
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Yesterday we managed to open up stuck rear brakes. After that my mechanic friend bleeded the system but no pressure on brakes. I made a little run on the yard and if i pump brake several times quick, it'll stop but if i press just once nothing happens. So is this caused by bad master cyl or does master vac got something to do with this?
Last reply by Reverend, -
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I put Toyota calipers on my 72 Z and now the 14" wheels rub slightly on the calipers. I wonder if I used a 10 or 15mm spacer if the wheels would no longer rub. I don't really want to upgrade the wheels at this time because I am planning on selling the car. Has anyone tried this?
Last reply by manny1973, -
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I need a new brake master cylinder, and noticed eBay has them going from $45 - $150+ Here is the $45: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eaa4dcc04QQitemZ200425720836QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Here is the $150+: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-260z-280z-Brake-Master-Cylinder-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563b05f922QQitemZ370357434658QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories What's the difference? Could I just use the $45 version, and put my original plastic reservoirs on them? BTW, this is for my 77 280z
Last reply by IdahoKidd, -
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So I've been searching and reading and learning what I can, but I'm a bit overwhelmed by everything and need to ask for clarification. My '72 is my first experience with a dual reservoir brake system and I'm not sure what's what. First off, what is the device that's mounted in the engine bay below the MC? Pictures below. http://s132.photobucket.com/albums/q27/AwwsChwA/z%20parts/?action=view¤t=MC2.jpg http://s132.photobucket.com/albums/q27/AwwsChwA/z%20parts/?action=view¤t=MC1.jpg I understand it's got a switch in it that triggers a trouble light in the event of line pressure loss, but specifically what is this little machine and what else, if anythin…
Last reply by BTF/PTM, -
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So I'm in the process of diagnosing weird brakes, first thing on the list tomorrow is to see if the reaction disk is in place. Anyway, today I did the basic thumb check on the vacuum lines between the engine and the booster. There's vacuum at the manifold, vacuum through the check valve and vacuum through each segment of tube. But... When I opened the check valve, and also the final segment of tube which made sense, it made (makes) a distinct sort of sputtery groaning sound as air get sucked through it. Is this normal? I didn't connect a vacuum gauge (don't have one) so I don't know if the vacuum changes strength, but I still felt it on my thumb at all points. Is th…
Last reply by BTF/PTM, -
Question? what are you guys doing for a spare tire? I will soon have new 17" wheels to go with my big brake kit and have realized that no spare is going to fit over the brakes??? Does anyone make just a steel wheel that would work? Thanks
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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I am wondering if anyone has the Rota rb 16x7 +4 offeset wheels and Eibach lowering springs? If so, what tire size? I want to fill out the wheel wells nicely, but want the car to drive properly, with NO rubbing (I do not want to roll my fenders, either). Is that possible? Is there anyone out there who can give me the definitive answer as to if they rub? I'd love to see pics if you got 'em. Thanks! Adam
Last reply by justinp551, -
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Bought my 9/70 production Series 1 a few weeks ago (it was sitting 16+ years), both front and rear brake reservoirs were empty. Will soon replace rubber hoses at each wheel and clean up rear slaves and front pistons. My jaw dropped after researching MC rebuild kits (N/A) and the price of NOS MC ($300+). Any advice on options? Will be looking for used-good MC on CL and EBay but they could have the same problems. Have not disassembled my MC but not likely the seals are any good after being dry for so long(?). Best option to open the wallet and get a NOS while they are still available? Thanks, this forum is great, I search and lurk much more than post as I'm still figuring …
Last reply by dclamm,
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