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Fuel tank is out, not surprised at what I found. The sending unit is seized and lots of debris in the tank. I put out a few emails to some restoration shops to find out if the tank is salvageable. If I need to get a new one, these were the couple tanks I could find. S30 World $665 Vintage Tank Solutions $750 I also checked The Z Store and Resurrected Classics The car came with a new fuel pump still in the box, but Ill need to source a sending unit, possibly some straps (I haven't looked at the old ones too closely to see if they are salvageable.) At the very least Ill need the J hooks since I just cut out the old ones. And all the hoses. The fill tube rubber is in nice condition though, still soft and was relatively easy to remove. The size of the expansion tank surprised me for sure.

Saw this and I am tempted to purchase. We had Aurora slot cars growing up and they were a ton of fun. HO scale, so would fit with my trains.

My July '70 car, #6521 has all of those features as well. I knew about your points 1 & 2 but not 3. Interesting, I learned something today, thanks.

I am currently going through the various parts of the car and cleaning, re-furbing and painting (as needed) so that everything will be ready to install once the body returns. I figured I would post a few 'Unique to the early cars' parts here (or things that Rich has never seen before) on a 240Z. On the gas pedal there is a small bracket at the very top. I am not sure of the purpose of that feature. My guess is that it was intended to be used in tandem with the deleted throttle lever. The cover on the wiper motor is something I have never seen. Nice custom fit. The later bag covers were probably cheaper to produce. The steering column transition brackets have overmolded rubber in the locations where the shaft would be attached. I guess they decided that these were not needed. Interesting to see though.

Do the seniors have to keep those phones on them?

I've got an app that shows real-time speed, google maps I think? Anyhow changing from 14" to 15" with the right speedometer cog it proved my cog choice was right. It might be 1 or 2 mph off but that's better than 10 when the troopers are everywhere making that money.

Wonder why some Craftsman's are red and blue and some are clear and blue? I've got a lot of both, even a set a of barbeque tools made with the red and blue handles. Best one I've ever used, found on the side of the interstate too.

Years ago I sacrificed this Craftsman screwdriver to make a Z brake adjustment tool, it has worked very well.

On the hunt for an automatic transmission shift bezel in brown. I'm hoping someone made the switch from auto to manual and has one on a shelf somewhere in good shape. Thanks!

For the 'G2' android version, the Black Friday sale price (15% discount) is US$340 (plus shipping, tax, etc). Lots of videos on You Tube, by both the manufacturer and users. This little device may have a lot of auto shop owners scratching their heads about the investments they've made in their alignment systems. The gyro capabilities of smartphones, coupled with their communications capabilities, are being exploited in a lot of different fields. One example is medical, where smartphones are being used, on behalf of seniors living alone, to intelligently detect and assess falls in the home and then communicate such events to family or caregivers.

If the clevis pin lines up with the pedal, you're good to go. If you're truly curious about this conversion, look on ebay for Honda electric brake boosters. You won't have to worry about the angle on the MC reservoir.

Steve, I don’t think there is any confusion on the wiring. I was teasing my brother Yarb…

I wonder. Do we need the Bosch brake pedal as well? I’m inclined to do this if it doesn’t require the pedal modification as well…

Well, it should be no surprise really, but we are all (well most of us) carrying a little device that is more spatially aware than we ever dreamed. The humble iPhone has considerable power to know where it in space, what is level and what is plumb, which way is north and how far away you are from the sales at Best Buy…. Built in apps already expose those powers. Check out Level and Measure. I’m not going to go to great lengths to describe what I found, I’m just going to leave a web link here to an company that has developed an app and some simple hardware that I think is incredibly good at what it does. Read their story and see what you think. It’s called: Gyraline https://gyraline.com/products/the-case It consists of a little flat 3D printed plate that you mount your iPhone into. The plate has nubbins that let you place it against your wheel’s rim lip in a dependable way so you can align your phone to the rim correctly. Fire up the app, place the phone in a few key spots, push buttons, BOOM. Out spits your alignment. I will say I have their version 1, been using it for about a year, and that it works. I can get a toe in and camber measurement in literally 1 minute. All four wheels. Yeah…… I’ve compared it to “Real” alignments and it’s very very close. I just had my Mazda cx70 done at the dealership and I plan on comparing it to what they said as well. Anyway, read, study, you decide. The thing is not cheap, they know what they have. They are challenging the big guys with their marketing materials. No more string for me…..

Wheel alignments. Never has there been such anguish in my car world surrounding a technical topic as with wheel alignments and how to do them “at home”. Strings, tape measures, levels, gadgets, do-dad’s, fads, etc etc. Check the aftermarket for all the gadgets you can buy. Nearly infinite. Never has there been such a technology gap between the professional whole-bay devouring laser powered machines you’ve seen at the dealers and auto shops and the home guy with a couple of sticks, a dirty string and a tape measure trying to get his toe-in vaguely correct. Well, I may have discovered a truly better way to do this. Read on.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode

I recognize the beat, never saw the video or heard the whole song. A song about drugs, with a "don't do it" disclaimer in the middle. They even shout freebase, and (co)ca(i)ne... sugar. Drugs. rang dang diggity da rang da dang Of course, Eric Clapton turned an old blues song about cocaine in to a big hit. Rock and roll...

Somebody must have done this one since the thread started.

A video by an electronics teacher explaining why some relays have extra stuff inside. Uses some words I've wondered about in the past. I don't know much about it but it's kind of interesting.

Anybody remember this one? White Lines

The other connections are just as listed in the drawing. The other 19 pins in the big connector are left blank. Connector kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/267047224965?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&srsltid=AfmBOooPV5nflCm9OG4z_qtvTPN_DJ6ObmXrBJVU3X80I3uMTYxV2QYHG0Y

@SteveJ Are you suggesting the sensor connections aren’t needed because abs etc is not a factor?

To share a YT video, there should be buttons underneath it, one of those being share. Click on the Share button, click on the Copy button, and paste the link in a post here. If it's an embedded video, right click on it, and choose Copy video URL I'm not sure what is causing the confusion with the wiring. It seems straightforward to me. I said to take the power for Pin 1 from the alternator so if your Z has an ammeter, it doesn't indicate a drain when the booster is boosting. The black/white wire should be the one that goes to the ballast resistor (pre 78). Am I missing something?