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The difference is modern bumpers are TPO (Thermoplastic Polyolefin) and a urethane bumper is different. I routinely plastic weld TPO bumpers for my cars I repair but Urethane bumpers can't be plastic welded. At least not in the traditional meaning. TPO is also stiff and takes paint better because it's more solid and less rubber like than urethane. Some TPO bumpers for 240z's would be very interesting

I’m working on getting my 240 back in road shape and I tried to change the transmission fluid yesterday but the fill plug seemed impossible to remove. I ordered a 17mm square socket to hopefully not round it off and doused it in penetrating oil multiple times. Any other tips and tricks? When is searched around I read that applying heat to the transmission body around the nut can help, is a propane torch sufficient? Also, any guesses on what is causing the oil leak on the rear of the transmission and what the black oil soaked wire running to the rear of the transmission is? Thank you.

With all the plastic on cars today, I would think a good body shop would know how to make it work. I had a plastic bumper on my wife's car repaired and painted about 7 years ago and haven't had any issues.

The painter who painted the loose panels for Lily uses Bulldog adhesion promoter. I will talk to the paint shop too. To try to check all the boxes

Yes you're correct. However, will a customer accept an exhaust manifold that will start to show corrosion almost the minute he leaves my shop after spending X amount of $ for a Y operation? Asking rhetorically as the answer is obvious. Everyone and I mean EVERYONE was very happy with the Jet-Hot cast look including, but not limited to, the Franklin Mint car.

I have always wondered why a vacuum pump on a booster would not do the exact same thing as manifold vacuum. It would not even need to be that big a pump as the master vac is relatively small. Only need to maintain about 45 mmhg.

Not a "snark" - just a sigh from a bona fide Turbo Swap and EFI Enthusiast... Always have been and never apologetic. And although I sigh, I never fault anyone else's decisions concerning their own vehicles. A comment is just a comment, everyone has their own opinion, and some have greater experience in a certain sphere than others.

Thank you Captain. So I didn't keep track of what side those springs came off of when I disassembled. My thinking is the longer of the two less than 5/8 of an inch I'll use 4 the passenger side rationalizing that the tilt of the engine in that direction may need more support. Comments?

So any color other then heat cycled metal isn’t technically correct.?

Zzzzzzzzzz…..

That's because it is

When I do the math on the free lengths from the manual, I get significantly different numbers. 373.5 / 25.4 = 14.7 386 / 25.4 = 15.2 So assuming the free lengths in the FSM are typos, the lengths you are measuring look great.

You might also consider using vinyl paint. I used it to re-colour my Z's interior (from black to butterscotch). Pix below should give you an idea of the flexibility and adhesion characteristics (I've seen zero evidence of paint lifting over the ten years since I originally did the application). It sprays on easily using an HVLP gun and doesn't require much in the way of surface prep. It took me three coats to achieve full coverage over the black soft and hard trim pieces. We had a supplier in the Toronto area (Parasol) who would custom mix colors from a customer-supplied paint chip (my results we spot-on, based on a small piece that I snipped from the hem of my new butterscotch seat covers). I expect you'll be able to find a comparable supplier somewhere in the U.S. south-east.

Not that weren’t expecting

Hopefully not too many surprises

I used this on my front air damage prior to paint. Can't remember who recommended it, but seems to work.

Dang, Those almost look like bare metal

The airdam is urethane. It can be tough to get paint to stick to it because it's so flexible.

A social media post caught my eye last week. Facebook Z forum. Some guy had put a Honda Accord electric booster on his Z. I have tried to get more information without success. This is interesting because it doesn’t depend on engine vacuum. With the proliferation of alternator swapping, the extra electrons wouldn’t seem to be a problem. What are your thoughts?

I know most people on this forum want as much stock and original parts as possible but, at least it’s my opinion, maybe some modern upgrades / mods are in order to keep these cars on the road. Aside from all the aftermarket suspension upgrades I know that Apex Engineered also sells new steering racks (with right hand inner tie rods) and just the right hand thread inner tie rods. Replacing just the inner tie rod(s) for right hand thread once might be a good solution for the NLA drivers side outer tie rod. And yes Apex does sell them separately and in pairs. https://apexengineered.com/shop/s30-240z-260z-280z/inner-tie-rod/ No I’m not sponsored I just like what they’re doing and ordered some stuff to fix my 280z.

Is it urethane or fiberglass? Mine is urethane, I caught a flying 2x4 on the left brake vent hole in the airdam @ freeway speed (at first I thought it was coming through the windshield). I now have a starburst in the paint but that's it. My paint is a single stage and we did it back in 1991 so the only details I remember is I called the Denver regional office to get the paint number for a red 1971 early 240Z. the red does have some orange in it, I think code 110.

Hi, I don’t know much about originals of our cars, but if this helps for your reference that would be nice. The L20A is for a Skyline GT but it can be a useful reference. The Kaku -U crew inspecting the cylinder head that was a screen shot from the video of 1969 US & CANADA test drive. Kats

I suppose it depends on what the worry would be. Worry about them failing? Spring sag with age is not uncommon. Did you notice any variance in corner height when they were installed? The thing about aftermarket springs is you don't really know how they'll sit until you get them installed. You can find reports of weirdness with the Eibach progressive rate springs. Don't know if that problem ever got solved. It's a conundrum.

I've seen the free length dimensions in the manual I have but when I'm measuring them on my workbench I'm getting 14 1/2 and 15 and 1/8 total length. So should I not be worried about the half inch variation. Their stock springs and they're 54 years old. A new set of Elbach Springs or $279. set of 4.

Seems to be normal and as Nissan intended. Maybe to offset an imbalance in the car's weight, maybe from the engine tilt. Not clear, although it might be described somewhere. I don't think that the aftermarket considered it.