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I had similar issues trying to buy parts out of Europe. Specifically Latvia. I needed some BMW fuel injectors and there seem to be a number of NOS BMW parts in Latvia. They couldn't tell me what the final costs would be because of the ever changing tariff situation. In the end I had to source them somewhere else. I am hoping that at some point these issues will get resolved, so business can know the rules and get back to work...

Nope. They're a pain without any lock screws.

Yep the wheels turn fine. Isn't there a lock screw that holds the drum on?

If the brake isn't locked up, and the wheel turns, the likely cause is rust between the axle flange and the brake drum. I'd use a few long penetrating oil soaks and use a hammer to hit the drum between the wheel studs a few times. My next choice would be heat.

Hi all - I have a leaky right rear wheel cylinder and can't figure out how to get the rear drum off and the FSM basically says 'take it off.' On most cars, there's a lock screw somewhere then you just smack the cover and yank it off but I can't find that screw and its driving me nuts lol Anyone have an idea? -chase

But the price of obesity drugs are much cheaper.

Story #2 continued While I was at UPS, those lovely people suggested I try DHL. They “suggested” that DHL seems to be able to get anything to the US with less “questions” and “risks” but the costs would be likely double, Like $400…. So after frank conversations with the buyer, we agreed to go that route. Without saying too much, the DHL experience was easier. Their online shipping app still requires a detailed item description so they know what it is, but the only concern the guy at the drop off center had was that it didn’t contain any fluids or oil. It’s on its way for $418CAD….. And also worth mentioning, the cost story is not complete. For UPS and DHL, and I believe FEDEX as well, the receiver is on the hook for the Duty/Tariff/tax costs before they will release it to the receiver, rather than the shipper like Canada Post, and we don’t know what those costs are. Yet. Will get there in about 3 days. Hopefully he will share those numbers. Conclusion about this experience? Again, unless the need to buy my items is critical, and the buyer has deep deep pockets, I can’t see most US buyers actually buying anything from me.

We’d need the @Yarb inator to help us with the electrons.

Winner winner chicken dinner, we have spark Now im gonna look into some heat sink and stew on where i want to mount it. Time to move on to the fuel system. I know the fuel is toast and the tank will need to be cleaned. I’ll probably start on removing that and see what condition the lines are in. I’m excited!

Apologies to Zedyone. We’ve either hijacked his thread or added a schmit-load of complexity. 😎

Story #2. Big heavy Datsun part. So after story #1, Postal shipping is now dead to me for US customers. As luck would have it, I have an E30 head that a new friend in the US “NEEDS DESPERATELY” for a fair lady restoration. You may have seen the thread here recently. Ok, 60 lbs, big box, 2 ft + long, 9x9”, what to do. Decide to try UPS. On line estimate suggested ~$200 shipping to Ohio. Take box to local UPS Store. Beg for help, plead ignorance An hour later, paper work fill out by hand, much trouble describing the item and finding it correct HS code in the system to describe it properly, having to provide PROOF that the receiver is a US citizen (imagine him having to provide personal documents to a foreigner standing in a foreign shipping business!!!! No f‘ing way!) and FINALLY, being told that If I can’t provide commercial invoices that prove the source and valve of this item that i risk the item being ABANDONED if I try to ship and the US gov doesn’t agree with my valuation or paper work, I walked out without shipping it.

Story One. Shipping a personal gift to family friends in the US. I almost ALWAYS ship postal. Always cheapest, minimal or zero duty or brokerage charges (especially US to Canada shipping) Well, effective sometime in September I believe, there is a duty and taxes pre-shipping cost calculator application that has now inserted itself into the Canada Post shipping process. In a nut shell, shipping anything to the US requires you sign up with a company called ZONOS. This app sits between my Canada post shipping app where I make labels and pay for them, and my printer. I’ll explain. As I make the label, I (as always) I have to describe each items that I’m shipping. Now ZONOS gets in there and determines what specific trade type item each thing is and assigns a duty / tariff / tax amount to charge you. After you clear this hurdle it lets you pay for the shipping and lets you print the label. Now the fun part. First let me say, for Canada Post at least, THE SHIPPER (ME) MUST PAY THE DUTY/TARIFF/TAX, not the receiver in the US. So fine, I need to pass that cost on to the receiver by raising my shipping price. So I have to know what that cost is, right? Well I will know it, but not until I receive my monthly invoice from Zonos. NOT AT THE TIME OF SHIPPING!!! So, am I supposed to say “look, shipping is X$X today, but at the end of the month, I will ask for YY$$ more when I see your duty/tariff costs blah blah blah”. Oh I can’t ship that precious part you need for your restoration for 3 weeks while I wait to see how much that YY$ is and you send that $$. Oh and BTW, that YY$$ is going to be 500 times more than the 2$ part I’m shipping you. Are you a happy customer yet? What’s that, you don’t want that part anymore? Surprise!!!!: So back to specifics. We shipping a couple of hand made baby blankets and a bag of chips (don’t ask) to a family friend in US. Described it as a gift. Shipping costs were $25 bucks I think, but at the end of the month the Zonos invoices added $34 to MY visa. Sorry no more postal shipping to the USA

Good find Cap. I snatched the Gen 2 wiring pic.

So. I have been honored to help many of you here with your projects by shipping parts to you that I’ve accumulated over the years. I’m not a business, I don’t do it to feed my family, I do it help friends with their projects and to maintain my social circles. Recently, and I know I’m not alone, I and my customers have been faced with a massive increase in costs and effort shipping items to the US. I’m about to consider abandoning this service as it appears to no longer be practical. I can’t imagine what devastation is happening to Canadian small businesses who’s customer base is US based. I’ve heard rumbling on FB forums from others about crazy costs shipping both into and out of the US. I’d like to use this venue as a place to share our shipping stories and perhaps what worked better for you, or what services or techniques to avoid. So, to begin, I’ll share two stories that I’ve recently had, to help to both illustrate the difficulties and demonstrate solutions.

A work colleague of mine and I spent about an hour yesterday getting some video of the 240z I restored (got it on the road on Dec 31 last year). Unlike me, he has skills and talent for editing and creating videos. Have a look! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQ3ieeuqjwI

Yep, I read that one and that is what caused my post. I have the oil pan from the turbo motor, and I have the oil pan from the original L24. I can use either, but they both need re-habbing before I can use them. I didn't want to have to re-hab both of them at this time, but I think that is what I'm going to do, as they will both need to be done at some point anyway. Since I have the pan out for cleaning up, I have the ability to modify/change/omit the heat shield from the turbo pan. Can you explain what part interferes with the header? I'm thinking I may be able to retain some heat-shielding of the gasket and still fit the headers? I'm actually considering just using the MSA header I have for now until I can save some more dollars for the ZStory headers and hopefully, the tariffs will expire as well! I've also read that the turbo oil pan may not fit into the 240 because of the sump being in a different spot from the 240 pan, and causing interference with the crossmember, but I haven't been able to confirm that either.

I found the post where I was experiencing this issue. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63969-which-oil-pan-will-fit/?&_rid=2593#findComment-665907

I found some good pics, etc. of that booster here >> https://irate4x4.com/threads/ibooster-electric-brake-booster.394316/ Mounting: The mounting bolt pattern is 2.375" x 3.1875" square with a 2.5" center bore pass through:

Thanks for this latest photo essay. Lots of good insights here into how multiple panels come together in this complicated and structurally-important section of the car. You did some very nice work in forming the two big replacement sections for the upper frame rail. Can you talk a bit about how this was done? Also: What was the gauge of the sheet metal you used? In the 4th photo, there's what appears to be a right-angle drive power tool, with a 3" sanding disk mounted in the chuck. Is this your go-to tool for grinding welds? Who makes it?

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/FullSizeRender-1024x769.jpg Happy Thanksgiving from all of us at Z Car Garage! We hope you can find time to Enjoy The Ride over the holidays. Please note our hours of operation below: Week of Thanksgiving: We are open Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday 11/24 to 11/26 and Closed Thursday and Friday 11/27 and 11/28 Week of Christmas: We are open Monday, Tuesday 12/22 and 12/23 and Closed Wednesday ,Thursday, and Friday 12/24, 12/25, 12/26 Week of New Years: We are open Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday 12/29 , 12/30, 12/31 and Closed Thursday and Friday 1/1 and the 2nd *A gentle reminder on visiting the shop: No “Drop-in” please, must have an appointment. Not accepting phone calls during business hours-please leave a brief voicemail or e-mail rob@zcargarage.com Thanks! http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/RoadsterFall.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/510leaves.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/greenZ.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/476221730_1342947213560448_80462755940068577_n.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/467147090_1287958212392682_8043280586772983244_n-scaled.jpg  View the full article

Dou you have any spacers in the mounting hardware that can be swapped to the bottom side of the seat mount?

Looks like a bunch more room in there doesn’t it?

Found it. So, this guy on Facebook posted these pictures. Apparently, he used a Bosch Gen 2 iBooster. The housing, I get the impression he found an open source file and 3D printed it. Here is what I have, he says it works better than his GTR brakes!

The passenger side was exceptionally bad in this car relative to other sections . The car sat outside on a rotisserie for years on its side with the passenger side down . Probably gathered water from rain . When I finally dug into this I was grateful I had scrap pieces to do some of these repairs . Somehow I was missing a hunk that I had to make - but it’s was a small hunk . Removing the firewall and all its spot welds really tears up the kick panel . That and rust required some patching work to make the kick panel strong again . I probably will end up ordering the panel for under the battery tray from KF Vintage . I don’t think my skills are up to fabbing that panel .

Yeah, hopefully it should be easy to tell. In any event, it's got to be better than this!!! Hahaha!