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Hilarious, experienced all the same issues minus DBW. Really cool he documented the process, it's a journey. Congrats on the coil bracket.

You're welcome.

What year is your 280Z? Is it a bot also?

A fun z video I just was sent. It has my R35 coil bracket on it and has over a 1/4 million views! How cool is that.

Good to see someone else rebuilding them. He did miss out one part on reassembly, there's a disc with 4 holes in it that goes over the shaft to restrict the flow of grease into the rubber boot that he deleted. Also the Nissan boot has a bleed nipple on it, they are still available.

I hope you had plenty of turkey!

I hope you had plenty of turkey

Awesome video... thank you!

Yeah, I saw this one on FB the other day.

I get a kick out of a big horn sound coming out of a weee Z car. 😎

Just ran across this one and thought I would share. I can't recall seeing one that was as factory fresh as this one! Color combo is much better when new! 1972 240Z 9500 miles

The fit up looks good!

I thought it would be prudent to assemble what I have so when I do the other side floors and such I have my gaps set on the drivers side already . The tunnel is pretty flimsy at this point . The passenger side just scares me as far apart as I have it .

Good question. Pull the parking light fuse and see if things change.

Also, what fastener goes in the hinges for the plastic tool covers? A yellow zinc screw? Not a bolt...

Cody put the seatbelts in the car for me I reworked the headlights I used the H4 housing from Toyota and some LED's from Amazon @SteveJ I still have a high beam indicator issue. The blue indicator is on on low beam and sort of off on high beam. It glows very faintly but I am wondering if that is bleed over from the green LED's in the rest of the guage? Can I simply repin the front plugs to make the high beam on high beam?

To recap...I was looking for suggestions on replacement horns for now until I get around to rebuilding the original ones. I ended up buying and installing these from Z Car Depot: https://zcardepot.com/products/horn-set-hi-lo-240z-260z-280z-510?variant=50610208964920&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google%2Bshopping&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17820837536&gbraid=0AAAAADgHqXssZ64ffuRLMdHFQA1WVqNee&gclid=CjwKCAiA86_JBhAIEiwA4i9Ju_aM-ViE06tUtzcGp1fUrYiM7OyJd_3WeMCCfgkuDa7cRHrPUPNNsBoCRM4QAvD_BwE They do the trick. Not sure when I'll get around to diving into rebuilding the original ones, though for now I can still drive around and let people know I there. :)

I've been using a set of FIAMM air horns for about 50 years, very Euro and VERY loud!!! 😲

@Terrapin Z probably has some good quality used ones.

Vintage Datsun and Nissan parts has the bolt kit (39628-E4100) for $95. But there doesn't seem to be any way to add it to my cart, so I've sent them an email. All the other sites sell the bolt only ranging from 21 to 33 dollars each. I've sent emails out I would like to replace nuts bolts and lock washers Maybe I'll have some luck on Monday

The FSM describes how to adjust the horn sound and its actually very simple (screw on the back with a locking nut). Not saying they'll sound like a Jag, but altering the way they sound is possible. I believe each horn is set to a different tone.

There is a point where the adjusters will cease to tighten. If they're working properly, they shouldn't be the cause of a sticky drum removal. There are other factors that could be the cause. IRL the drum shoe friction material isnt that thick and they don't see that much use so there really isn't that much re-adjustment needed over time. I daily drive my 260 and have changed shoes once in 14 years. After you have them set properly you won't notice much if any park brake handle lock position change.

@Zed Head Sorry, I misunderstood about doing that with the drum on. If everything is working correctly, the handle should lock higher than usual and after a few pulls should gradually lower, is that correct?

Have a nice day, people!