All Activity

I'd take a test light or meter and see if the wire to the small spade connection on the solenoid is getting power when you turn the key to Start. You might have a cylinder full of coolant. Who knows. If you're getting power to the solenoid but it doesn't do its thing then you might have a bad starter/starter solenoid. Hit it with a hammer.

Those cylinders look great. What brand of camera/borescope? Four pages is a lot to review. Might help to summarize where you're at in the process. Cylinders look like they're ready for fuel, air, and spark.

That's the old skool way. A friend of mine years ago gave me a push button switch with two long wires attached and alligator clips on each end. One clip gets attached to the battery POSITIVE and the other gets clipped to the spade on the starter solenoid (remove the wire from the solenoid first). With the transmission in neutral, a push of the button should engage the starter motor. They call them "Remote Starter Switch" on Amazon... This problem is a common one on Z cars and has prompted many owners (including me) to install a STARTER RELAY. The start signal comes from the Ignition Switch and gets diluted by the interlock system and years of wire/connector oxidation. It's easier on that circuit if it just "sets" a relay - which then delivers power straight from the battery to the starter solenoid. (I also removed the overly complicated interlock system on my 260Z - just sayin' - personal choice...)

I would think the motor oil you're using squirted down the spark plugs holes would be good and take the valve cover off add soak the cam and valve train. Then turn it slowly clockwise from the the front and notice any hang ups or anything but smoothe rotation over and over. Leave the plugs out and use the starter but don't crank too long, short burst as to not burn the starter up. You will need a battery charger and don't rush the process, feel the starter and if it gets too hot to touch call it a day. The coolant should be all the way up to the top of the radiator fill hole. Let it run until you see the coolant flowing. I would add some water to your coolant, it looks to be straight antifreeze. That's not bad but 50/50 is what most people do.

Wow! Look how time flies! Its been a while since my last post. Things have been busy. I wasn't happy with my work space. Since I am at an apartment complex my garage was facing the apartments and I dont want to bother people with any noise that I make. I finally managed to switch to a garage on the back side of the lot that's a lot more appropriate. Right after I switched I went back to Montana for the summer and I just got back a few weeks ago. I got to use my shiny new bore scope to check out the cylinders and I'm pretty happy with it so far. You tell me. Here are some highlights. I started with cylinder 6. The one valve I could see had no carbon buildup on the top of the valve and this was the worse rust I could find so far. This is cylinder 5. Cross hatch is perfect. Cylinder 4 was at the top of the stroke, nothing much to see This is cylinder 3, not looking to great, but at least there is oil. Cylinder 2 was clean and 1 was clean with a few small specs of rust. I managed to snake my way down the oil cap and took some pics Obviously in the radiator. This was the fluid level when I got the car. I cant complain too much. That was as far as I got today. I think my plan next is to figure out a way to spritz the cylinders with some fluid and rotate the engine by hand. I don't want to dump a bunch of fluid in there, I highly doubt it is seized.

Sorry to resurrect this old of a thread (it's been informative in my research regarding luggage straps) but how cool is that?! The S30 with the VIN HLS30 00240. That's a keeper!

I use a long screwdriver to jump the the 2 big wires on the solenoid. Touch them both but you want the car in neutral and the key in the ON position. It scares the crap out of me but I'm a big ole sissy. Good luck and be careful, use and old screwdriver because it's going to leave an arc burnt spot on your screwdriver. I like to have a person filming this to hear my scream. Just kidding but it really is good to have a witness in case something goes wrong.

Hi, I need some help with a starting issue on my 1973 Z, auto trans, mostly original car. Car has been operating great then one day nothing. Car won't crank, just a clicking noise under dash on passenger side. I have a new battery; I checked & cleaned all connections from starter to ignition. I tried starting it in neutral thinking it might be the neutral safety switch but same thing. I tried turning the key to the start position and wiggled it up and down to see if the lock was the issue but nothing. I read on the forum that the automatics have a starter inhibitor circuit (K-18) mounted on the firewall. The person replaced it and it cured the similar problem I had. The K-18 was replaced by Nissan with a new part number (25230-89918). When I went to look for it, I found that it had been replaced again with a new part number (B5230-89985). I found one and it didn’t help, same issue. Can I test the starter by running a cable from pos battery post direct to the starter? If so, what is the best way? Any other suggestions? The 3 attached photos are: The switches on upper kick panel of passenger side. The lower blackbone is the one that is clicking. Not sure of the name or if that needs to be replaced, 2. the Interrupter circuit on firewall, The clicking switch enlarged in case someone can identify it?

Hi Trisha, see post on 240Z International Registry Facebook Page. Kelly Jean is looking for pictures like your car. She wants to make a clock as it was her first car. Cheers, Kirk

Better question is what is that carb for... Sorry, no love for those with me.

I'm happy with how the dove tails turned out so I'll go ahead and have a batch made up if anyone needs them for a restoration. Just sourcing the right JIS screws.

Fresh air intakes for the vents controlled by pull/push knobs under the dash near the driver and passenger kick panels.

240 or 260 manual wanted to trade for 1969 Plymouth GTX 440 4-speed

What are these inlets for?

I'm really impressed with the carburetor set-up. That's a very valuable car, and with some provenance, perhaps? That should be worth at least one year of med school!

Delay is due to paperwork-related logistics issues. A lot of my own work involves international shipments, so I have some sympathy when I hear of paperwork going missing in transit. And as someone who mistook a movement docket for a 'Factory Build Sheet', I trust you'll have just as much sympathy for 'Lost In Transit' as 'Lost In Translation'...

Light. Console. I think G/W is clearance, gauge lighting, and etc. but I'll look... 72_dash_2.pdf The 240Z dash I have has that same connector - the entire dash and harness is unconnected so... But - the G/W on that connector traces to the small 6-pin Body Harness connector shown in that .pdf - G/W in the upper right corner of the connector. The body harness G/W goes back to the clearance lighting in the tail. Trace that Red - I think it may well go to the front (engine bay harness) and the two hidden Fog Lamp connectors in the harness as it spans the radiator core support. And as you know the US model did not come with a Fog Lamp Switch from the factory so that would be an unused connector if what I said is true. Oh, if you look at the first wiring diagram in the FSM (not the "US and Canada Only" schematic) you'll see Fog Lamps and the connector for the Fog Lamp Switch. BUT, it'll confuse you because it shows a R and an RG wire to the switch. If you trace the RG, you'll see that it "tees" off a GW. So maybe the schematic doesn't follow the harness build exactly or vise-versa...

If you're going to have a muffler shop do it why not them look at it and use their database to find one. If you're going to do it yourself, then trying the no muffler twin stack should be easy. If the dimensions are correct. Looks like what you have is clamped on, not welded. So trying some things should be easy.

Hmmmm.

zed2...thanks for replying...I'm in Oak Harbor, WA (it's in my signature)...I'll keep that in mind, but I think I'm gonna do a little more research before I'd consider buying an entire exhaust...my system seems to be in great shape except for the muffler...give me some time to eliminate all the other possibilities.

On my early 1972 car (HLS30-46372), this two-wire connector extends from one of the wire bundles that connect with the fuse box. However, I cannot figure out what it's supposed to connect with. It has a red and a green/white wire and I've not seen that combo on any wiring diagram or harness illustration. Any thoughts are welcomed. I do have a later-run '72 car (HLS30-81416) that I could tear into to see what's up there but I'd prefer to not do that if at all possible.

Hey, @Mike the car’s paid for and trying to build another today will definitely be difficult than the era you built that beauty. Just sayin!

The S30-World BaT auction has been delayed. S30.worldS30.world - The Masterpieces programThe Masterpieces program

Nope, I still have it. ;)

ea6driver, Where are you located? I have a OEM exhaust system with resonator (not catalytic converter) that may be a good solution for you. Keith