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Got it, thank you! Now to see if I can figure out what it is saying. lol

Perfect. I just couldn't see the bottom washers in the other pics. Looks great.

The lock core has its own date code. Below on the left is year 0 (1970), month 3. On the right is year 9 (1969), month 7. The lock assembly also has its date code. This one is Left, year 0 (1970), month 4, day 16 (I think). This pic is the assembly for the 0-3 lock core above. Just for grins, here is the lock assembly for the 9-7 core above, note the difference in the slot as you noted on one of yours.

Okay, it’s been a minute so this post will be all over the place… I’m going to start with baby steps that feel like giant steps. I was able to install the left side headlight bucket. It seems small, but I hadn’t been able to get to all of the weatherstripping that goes under the fender so I put it off. This was the first time I’d seen it together (on one side) since it came back from the painter. I found there was a sizable gap between the bucket and the fiberglass air dam and I didn’t know how far the dam was going to flex. It ended up working out when I got the blinkers on, but it’s not a crisp clean fit. More on that later. ••• I didn’t do a great job documenting this, but I did a complete refurb of my marker lights and turn signals, inside and out. Left side is before, right side is stage 2 of the 3 step polish. The left front TS and three of the marker lights were pretty beat up. The white plastic was nearly brown inside and the mirror of the fronts and metal housings of the marker lights were all rusted. I stripped these pieces and painted the metal parts with highly reflective silver spray paint. The plastic housing I sprayed white inside and left the outside raw, painting the mirror the same as the marker lights housings. The lenses were sanded with 400 grit wet/dry paper, then up through 5,000 grit, and finally polished with Novus plastic polish. Surprisingly, I was able to reuse all of the OEM rubber parts. They just needed scrubbing with a green scotch bright pad. I decided to replace all of the hardware with stainless bolts instead of sheet metal screws because the right rear screws are uncomfortably close to the fuel vapor hoses. I wasn’t able to get JIS screws quickly enough so I just went with generic M5 cap head bolts, with fender washers and lock nuts on the inside. The ones in back got rubber caps on the bolts, too, just to be safe. All of the wiring and connectors for these were replaced. The OEM sockets and rubber boots were refurbished. I ran out of bullet connectors so I used Yamaha sealed connectors for the front marker lights. I’m a bit bummed that the rubber covers from Vintage Connectors for the turn signals are so short. I’m wondering if I need to do something like wrap them in tape to keep the water out. The bulbs are color matched LEDs from Super Bright LEDs, which I think look nicer than using white ones under the colored lenses. The color is much richer while still being… uh, super bright. The gaps around the air dam closed up a bit after I got all of the hardware on, but the curves of each piece (headlight bucket, air dam, and blinker housing) don’t match, which is irritating. I’m hoping it will disappear once the bumper is on. ••• I FINALLY finished my throttle cable setup. I looked at a bunch of off the shelf options and a few specifically for Z cars, but the prices and not quite being what I wanted pushed me into making my own. The two challenging pieces were the bulkhead and the bracket. I made the bulkhead out of a stainless steel drain plug that a friend drilled out and tapped for me on his lathe. We broke a tap and probably dulled a second to the point of not being usable any more. If I did it again I would use aluminum. It’s held on with an M18 nut and has the cable adjuster for a triumph motorcycle brake lever screwed into it for the cable sleeve. That’s probably also unnecessary as I could have made the bulkhead so it acted as the cable sleeve seat on its own. The bracket was another Send Cut Send job. I had to wait until everything else was figured out to design and order it, but I made four versions with the hole for the throttle cable adjuster at various heights. I opted for the second tallest, but I’ll change it if this ends up feeling wrong. I’m definitely going to have to ad a bend along the long edge to reduce flexing. I went with a progressive cam from @duffymahoney and had to make sure there is no interference when all said and done. The shortest bracket looked the best but was uncomfortably close to the cam at full throttle. All of the cable bits and pieces I got from Venhill Engineering for a song. The reason there are two adjusters in the photo is so the bracket can also hold the choke cable, which I am repurposing to operate the starter valves on the Mikunis. I doubt I’ll ever use them but I don’t like having inoperable parts in the car. The cable is affixed to the ball socket by a m5 lamp bolt that was decapitated, crimped to the cable, rethreaded, and soldered. So yeah, the throttle half of this project is done for now. I just need to change the screw holding the cable to the cam to be a set crew, cut the excess cable, and cap it off so it won’t fray. The bracket will definitely need to be stiffer, but that’s for later. ••• Unfortunately I keep forgetting to take pictures, but I can show you how I ran the AC drain so it minimizes the size of the lump when I install the transmission hump upholstery. The Vintage Air evaporator came with a black hose, but I swapped it out for some hose with a thicker side wall, which should keep it from compressing under the upholstery and inhibiting the flow of condensation. A nozzle connects to the hose with a 1/2” barbed splice fitting. The black piece is from sun roof drains on GM and other vehicles and its X-shaped aperture should create a Venturi effect when mounted perpendicular to air flow to pull water out and prevent anything from traveling back up the hose. Pretty generic and available on Amazon for a few bucks. I cut the insulation to make a channel for the hose to rest in. A 5/8” hole and some RTV to make sure it doesn’t pop out and I’m good to go. I also finished the passenger side door window and the rest of the interior firewall work the same day. Now to check the refrigerant plumbing for air leaks. 👍🏻 ••• After I was finally able to get all of the firewall work done, I put the dash in and plugged it all together. Nothing major to report since I’ve discussed the details in previous posts. This time I took more care to tuck the wiring away nicely. The few loose ends are wire for a set of foot well lights that are switched at the doors, a feed for a USB plug I intend to put in the center console, and the power/ground and control wires for the evaporator. The biggest challenge was getting it back in with the air ducts installed. This corrugated tubing from Vintage Air is nice but it’s not flattened/ovular like the OEM stuff so it requires some persuading. I still think it’s better, though. It’s tough to see in the center but it’s really well fit to the evaporator without any clamps, which keeps it clean and free of things to chafe of the hose or wiring looms. I’m hoping a harness cover will clean up the mess around the relays, but I’m going to zip tie some of this up tight before any cowls or covers go on. ••• And here it’s starting to feel like a car! Or, at least I am staring to get some storage space back. 🤣 I’m really pleased with how the Vintage Dashes dashboard looks. The glove box door needs adjusting, but after hitting the finisher with some Landau Black SEM Color Coat it all came together. It seems the internet was correct about that being the right color. I’d heard these aftermarket windshield gaskets leave a bit to be desired compared to OEM, and it’s true, but I think you can finesse it into shape. The gaps in the corners were really bad until I put the steel trim in. That stretched them out a bit, but it’s not perfect. I’ll let it settle for a while and then might just pump the gaps full of weather strip adhesive until it’s filled in. Speaking of steel trim, that’s a fun chore. 🙄 ••• My spare tire cover was FILTHY. Luckily it cleaned up well and didn’t pucker or warp. The orange flecks in the fiber board are a nice touch. ••• Lights! No before pictures but here’s everything put together. I used the same process on the lenses as the blinkers. The housings were scrubbed and then wiped lightly with acetone to get the last of the adhesive off. Thankfully I didn’t need to recondition the mirrors. The center lug on the replacement chrome trim is too short to function as the only fastener holding everything together. I used a M5 threaded socket left over from installing the blinkers along with a rubber washer. It worked fabulously, but I think it would be really easy to screw up if over tightened. No wiring yet. I just wanted to close up the cabin for the next step. ••• Looking clean figuratively and literally. I picked up the basic carpet set from Newark Auto in black 80/20 loop. It’s really nicely made, but I don’t think it’s meant to go with an insulation kit like the one I have. There are a few places where it would have fit better if there was no insulation, and there are a few places where it is just straight up wrong. Overall give it a 89 or 91 out of 100. Worth it but could be improved. I’ll be using the vinyl kit from MSA on the sides. I’m going to cross my fingers and hope my original interior pieces clean up nicely. I just put them straight into storage without unpacking them when I bought the car, so who knows what shape their in. If they suck I’ll be new replacements. But yeah, the car is starting to feel like a car.

I get that info later this week when returning home from a business trip.

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/IMG_5209-1024x768.jpeg Join us on Sunday, June 8 for the Z Owners of Northern California (ZONC) gathering at the Blackhawk Museum! See flyer below for more details: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/499860045_10236740117827575_7586398421903317342_n-scaled.jpg We had a blast at last year’s ZONC event with a fantastic turnout. See our report from the 2023 event HERE, and Z you at Blackhawk! http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/IMG_5176-1024x768.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/IMG_5284-1024x768.jpeg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/IMG_5194-1024x768.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/IMG_5250-1024x768.jpeg View the full article

Here's a good read on installation for a '72. Dave's 1972 Datsun 240z: Electri...Electric Fuel Pump InstallationIn an effort to make the 240z more reliable, I've decided to upgrade to an electric fuel pump and then retire the mechanical pump. By using...

I don't know if it's the ONLY reason for it's existence (seems unlikely), but that is where they printed the identifying markings:

I worked on Cody's car some Friday Hung the header, intake manifold and carbs The header is a pretty tight fit! I still need to come up with a way to hold the parking brake cable over Got the radiator in and have the alternator most of the way in

I seem to remember when an Aerovault was $11K... Bring a Trailer2024 Aerovault MkII LT TrailerBid for the chance to own a 2024 Aerovault MkII LT Trailer at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #194,177.

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/DSC085591.jpg 1992 Nissan Skyline GT-R R32 for sale. All work and maintenance performed by Z Car Garage since 2013 Built engine with forged internals. Stock turbos. Ohlins Road and Track coilovers Stoptech BBK front & rear TE37SL wheels Bride seats Takata Racing harness Additional parts and details below Asking $75,000 obo Contact Lou at ltstrick32@gmail if interested. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/DSC08544-e1410764891805.jpg Build History at Z Car Garage http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/IMG_7806.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/IMG_7800.jpg For most fans of Japanese sports cars the “R32” Skyline supercar is highly regarded and historically significant. Not familiar with this model? Find out what makes it special over at JNC. This R32 Skyline received extensive suspension and engine work performed by Z Car Garage including fully upgraded front/rear Ohlins coil-overs (2022), sway bars, T/C rods, camber/control arms using parts from Cusco and Powertrix: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/IMG_8435.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/TV7113-009-e1748642738732.jpg A full Stoptech big-brake system with larger calipers and 332mm vented rotors F/R was installed. Volk TE37SL wheels, sized 18×9.5 and finished in high-metal bronze. The wheels perfectly frame the Stoptech 332mm big-brake kit at all 4-corners: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/DSC08539.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/JC92912-013.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/DSC08555.jpg The RB26 was rebuilt using a Rebello-prepped bottom end consisting of forged JE pistons and Eagle rods. Mild headwork and stock turbos make up the top end. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/IMG_2260.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/JC2213-003.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/JC2213-094.jpg A full Tomei titanium exhaust system was added including downpipes, test pipe and the Expreme Ti muffler, installed at ZCG: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/DSC08546.jpgVideo of exhaust with drive-by: With the new exhaust and Haltech it was dyno tuned to a healthy 412hp/311tq to the wheels: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/Lou_S_GTR_Final-1024x759-1.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/DSC08552-400x300.jpg The interior features a Bride driver seat with Takata harnesses and a MOMO steering wheel: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/DSC08540.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/IMG_2263.jpg The R32 has been driven to many shows/events running flawlessly. It is equally at home on the street or at the track. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/IMG_0506-400x300.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/DSC00819-e14338203325451-400x224.jpg This R32 was featured and driven by Jason Cammisa in the GT-R episode of IGNITION from MotorTrend: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Screen-Shot-2017-06-18-at-10.13.35-PM-1024x700.jpg If you have not seen the video yet click on the YouTube link below for a preview of the R32 in action, and see our behind-the-scenes report HERE. The was driven to the 2019 Skyline Matsuri in San Francisco: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/IMG_7005-1024x768.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/IMG_0509-400x300.jpg More photos in the gallery below. Contact the shop for more information. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/IMG_0517-e1500358346764-1024x766.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/IMG_0566-e1500359143764-1024x688.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/DSC085432.jpg View the full article

I believe that's the Nissan Heritage museum. I think I go back to Japan in July and plan to go there next. Didn't know about the Subaru museum, thanks.

I suspect that in order to be period correct, it should leak. 😄

Motorheads Season 1 Episode 10 starting at about 38:45 minutes in. The girl (and she is a Motorhead) just found this car in a junk yard because a Cardinal landed on the hood like a message from her passed away father. The episode ends with her looking at a Clymber manual on Z car building.

Reproduction fuse cover/ash tray for the 240z Datsun Series 1. Reproduced in Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate. Comes with silver ring insert, tray silver inserts, lid pins. Ideal if you want to remove and store your original away from the car and have a visual reproduction in place. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167546076628

Very nostalgic for me. Back in 1995 I was asked to accompany a couple of Japanese motoring journalists to the Le Mans 24hrs race to assist in press coverage of NISMO's GTR-LMs and their participation in the race for Club Le Mans. We had pit access, press room access, full catering and hospitality. A big contrast to my first visit to the LM24hrs in 1970 when I only ate frites and crepes and managed to catch just a few hours sleep whilst soaked through, laying on newspapers by the side of the track...!

I was able to get everything back together on the car yesterday. The new yoke (with a new bushing in the back of the transmission) was a very snug fit. After double checking I torqued everything, I was able to take the car on a test drive. What a big difference! I got up to about 80 on some interstate and the severe vibration, which previously could be felt with a hand on the transmission tunnel, and seen in the blurring rear view mirror, was gone. Now, I can get back to the small list of things that I have to do to finish this car: install inside rear tail light trim panel install front right kick panel clean and glue in tool compartment liners repaint tail light trim panels (for better color match) install NOS glove box hinge/inside panel install rear hatch trim panel repair and install factory radio, or install guts of a new radio in the old radio case

I have 2 OEM Nippon Denso Starters and 1 hitachi starter. The two Densos have part numbers but the Hitachi has no numbers. I also have 3 alternators 1 hitachi with a part number and 2 that are of unknown maker. My dad used to import cars back in the 80s from Japan and replacement parts were hard to come by, hence why I have 3 oem starters and 3 oem alternators. I do know for a fact he imported 2 datsun s30's a RX-7, and a celica all 1970s era cars. I found some cross reference part numbers for the starters but am totally in the dark about the alternators. If anyone would like to buy them or know someone who needs these parts for an original rebuild that would be great. These parts are 100% from japan. They've been sitting in our garage wrapped in plastic for 40 years. I have tested the starters and they do operate correctly. Let me know if you are interested and we can work out a fair price.

But whats wrong with rockauto? Arent these ones good shock absorbers? Other suppliers are more expensive.

Thread highjacked. Start a new topic if you want to talk about hub stands.

Ended up picking up some 3m Body Schutz and a cheap undercoating gun and did some test sprays and this isn't what was used, but I think its close enough. It dries much harder than what's currently on there, which feels quite rubbery.

Guess I got into the game late…🤦‍♂️

Missed 2 car shows yesterday because of rain but made up for it today as did others. A lot of classics out around here on a beautiful day. Car ran great! Here's to the rest of the day fellows, it's drinking time, all driving is over. 🍻

Dear forum users, as my saddler lost the glove box lid of my 280z (from 1977) including the lock I am still searching for a lock including keys in good shape (working). I managed to acquire a lid via craigslist in the US and a brand new closing mechanism via ebay for in total around 150 €, but still miss the lock. Does anybody have a lid or a single lock? Thank you for your kind help, Christian

I ran across a spare intake manifold for my '71 while cleaning the garage. Any idea what the smaller tube on the brake booster vacuum line connects to? Thanks!