Engine & Drivetrain

We all know that Nissan decided to replace the Z's 'A' transmission with the 'B' version.  However, I don't think I've ever read anything that discusses why this was done.  We all just assume that the 'B' was "better".  But, how so?  This was an expensive decision, so: 'Why?'.  What, exactly, was so wrong with the 'A' unit?  Did customer sentiment demand a replacement?  Or was it a reliability/warranty issue? I'll  also be interested to hear the opinions of those who have had a chance to dr

Over the years, several CZCC members have produced write-ups on the topic of bringing an L24 engine back to life after a long period of storage.  I think this one was the best of the lot, with credit to its Canadian author Phil _ (aka 'Blue', aka '240260280', aka 'Hoover').  I believe that this write-up originally appeared on the 'Atlantic Z-Car' website (still a great resource for how-to articles), but as of 2024 it seems to have disappeared.   STARTING A DERELICT NISSAN L24-SERIES EN

Here is a copy of the Datsun training manual for the R160/180/200. It is not complete manual as only the section pertaining to the S30 were scanned.DIFFERNTIAL SERVICE GUIDE.pdf

Let me start this thread by saying that I was not looking to solve a mystery or bust a myth when I started this procedure. I just wanted to rebuild my tired old 76 280Z half-shafts! I think there was a very common myth that the S30 half-shafts were different sizes. The driver side being shorter than the passenger side. Even though the distance from the wheel hub to the differential differs (more-so with the R200) from side to side, the half-shafts are IDENTICAL! The amazing amount of latera

I am rebuilding a RB20det engine. When I separated the head from the block I noticed 2 things  1. This orange sludge was behind the freeze plugs (intake side) and behind the thermostat  2. the orange stuff was on the valve stems (intake side) what is the cause of this? Might this be caused by the use of water instead of coolant?

I decided to add a Vintage Air mini system to my S30 restomod build.  The intended engine is an L28 stroker.  The engine is currently on a stand. While many Classic Zcar posts have discussed various aspects of installing an A/C system into an S30 chassis, none, to my knowledge, have ever given details regarding the fabrication of a bracket to fit on the lower front left side of an L6 engine and hold a Sanden compressor in the proper orientation.  This post is intended to rectify that inform

Recently came into ownership of my first Z, an 83 280ZX (I'll add a photo, super excited to get into this one). Having issues with the clutch (bear with me, still learning this kind of thing; engagement issues, car is creeping forward with the pedal completely depressed. Has good pressure but seems to be "backwards" for lack of a better term) and from what I've read on this forum and others it seems like my clutch is knackered. I've replaced the master & slave cylinders and all the lines but

I am looking for any information out there regarding choking of triple Weber carburetors. I have purchased a 260Z with triple Weber's and the choke cables from the SU carb's are not useable for this conversion. If anyone has ideas of how to achieve this please let me know. If you have pictures that would be most helpful. Thank you. Lorne

I found the best way to deal with cables is to remove: 1. the inner cable from the sheath/casing   2. wash it 3. wipe it with a scotch brite pad 4. lubricate it 5. use penetrating oil in can and flush sheath using a straw attachment The results are very nice. Heater Control and Side Vent cables: Depending on the type, you can often remove the plastic sheath/casing. In my experience, some of the metal cable gets crusty and

Here is a guide to what you can expect if you plan to convert from fuel injection to early (round-top) SU carbs. My particular experience with this is a bit unusual - my early '71 240Z had been converted (rather poorly) to fuel injection when a prior owner had an '83 L28 installed. Rather than de-bug the injection installation, I decided to go back to carbs. But this guide will also be applicable to installing round-tops on any injected 280Z (or even ZX). Basic parts list - one pair round-t