Body & Paint

This site has an extensive database of auto manufacturer paint codes and their corresponding paint manufacturer codes. These are the codes that auto paint supply stores can use to look up the formulas for accurate paint mixes. https://paintref.com/index.shtml Example - here are the Nissan paint codes for 1970 Datsuns: https://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?year=1970&con=y&make=Datsun&rows=50

CREDITS: This article was initially written by Enrique Scanlon in 2004.  With his help, Bob Kroshefsky (Seppi72) revised it in 2011 while working on his own car. You can perform troubleshooting with the door on or off the car.  Various parts and sources are listed at the end. Window movement problems can be caused by:  a bent regulator arm, a bent or misaligned front or rear guide, a sticking or broken roller, a stripped handle or a damaged regul

So I’m curious if they make a weld in replacement for the pictures I have attached. If so what would I look up?

There has been a lot of disscussion about the series 1, 2 and 3 240Z. The 280Z has similar changes and at first glance August 77 seems to be the change over point. I often see threads getting side tracked about these differences and when they occured.  A lot of good inforamtion, but its scattered over a lot of different threads and difficult to find again. This might be a goed way to collect information about these differences and share with other members.   To start: Re

I wrote this in response to another Z owner having problems with his windows. His initial question had been about the need for the pressure roller situated on the top part of the door and it's effect on the window operation. I also wrote down the steps to adjust a door window to operate smoothly. The window roller is required to push the glass inward as it reaches the top of it's travel. The inside door panel and the fuzzy strip attached to it, push the window outwards. Between these t

I wrote this some time back about how to adjust a hood. Has the hood always been hard to open, or did it just recently become hard to open? If it's always been hard, it is possible that at some point before you owned the car someone adjusted the pin or the hinges such that it's pressing against the fender lips and hence requiring the "slam". If it just recently became difficult, did you recently do some adjustments to the hinges, the latch pin or accidentally hit something with th

This is a real basic primer on how to bump out dents and shrink metal. Ok, if you're handy enough with an oxy-acetylene torch, then you'll be ok with this next procedure. If you're concerned with the "panel beaters", and I take that to mean the specialty hammers, dollys and other body specific tools, you can still do quite a bit with your regular tools. You can use your regular ball peen hammer or regular claw hammer as long as you're careful of the claw. See if you can addre

I wrote this some time back to help a member whose window had fallen off the tracks. Remove the regulator assembly. That's the gear and scissor mechanism that the window crank operates. This will allow you to operate the window pane within the opening without the regulator getting in the way. Once it's out of the way, slide the window glass up and down inside the frame and tracks. You should be able to determine if the window will go up and down smoothly and effortlessly (of course bar

Here's a primer on how to adjust the doors on your Z so that they fit properly and seal well. ADJUSTING THE Z DOORS: Unless the car has been in an accident and the door opening or door itself have been tweaked out of shape, most problems with the doors are due to misaligned latches, hinges, or worn components. Presuming that it is adjustment or bad parts and not bent items check the following. First perform a visual check of the door. Check to make sure that the door is aligned pr

One of the ugliest jobs I've done while stripping down an old 240Z has been removing the tar-like insulation that covers much of the interior floorboards and transmission tunnel. I have done it by using aircraft paint stripper, but this was a big mess. It softened up the tar, but made it flow into low spots. Once I had most of it removed with a paint scraper, I had to use a wire wheel and more paint stripper to get the last of it off. Some have suggested using heat, but I'd think this would also