SteveJ

Actually the lug on the alternator isn't switched. The black/white wire on the voltage regulator is switched, though I would not use that to power a light as it is also connected to the ignition coil. It would be smarter to use power from the black white to energize a relay (with a fuse between the voltage regulator and the relay) and use a wire from the alternator to power the lights.

Make it easy on yourself. Attach a ring lug to your wire and attach it to the alternator. Be sure to use an inline fuse to protect your wiring.

Phoenix I think it will be in September...not like I have to work that week... :)

You're welcome. Verified that it works. I advised someone else to purchase the relay from JBugs after I diagnosed the relay failed in his 77. He slapped in the new relay, and his car ran fine.

https://www.jbugs.com/product/071906059.html

I reckon that they saw the PA license plates and determined that if you were crazy enough to drive it down to Nashville, your car deserved to be seen with the rest of the cars.

Sorry, that is positive earth smoke. It won't work on our negative earth cars.

Update from the Good Captain: He called me from Bristol, VA. He's making good progress, and the car is holding together, though he is still concerned about the cooling capacity of his radiator. I told him to run the heat, too, but he declined. (Obscure reference: Watch Gumball Rally when the Camaro is running hot.) He expects to hit NashVegas this evening.

Here's another source for the braided hoses: https://jdm-car-parts.com/pages/search-results-page?q=braided%20hose%20240z Also https://zcardepot.com/products/radiator-hose-set-braided-cloth-style-240z-70-73

Texted you...does you phone do texts? 🤣

I was finishing up a week away from work in one of the best ways I could: attending yet another car meet. I was expecting to be about the only one with a Z there today since ZCON is starting up just a few hours away. Boy was I surprised. Several friends showed up in their Zs, too. One new friend showed up a little late, too, with his 280Z.

LEDs aren't very voltage sensitive. I'm trying to figure out the voltage drop, though. Maybe I can get out to the garage tomorrow and take some meter readings for you to try to replicate. I'm wondering if the hazard switch may be corroded/crudded up enough that it's a choke point under load.

I'm enjoying some cooler than normal temps in September, so I washed the 260Z and took it to a car meet.

Maybe you're worried about making it because you know too much. Back in 2015, I drove the 260Z to Memphis with carburetors that were too lean, an exhaust leak near the muffler and badly worn out rear bushings. I didn't know about the problems, so I didn't worry. 😁 I made it there and back just fine. If I had the carburetors richer, I might have hit triple digits on the front straight during the parade laps. My biggest worry then was I knew who did the brakes and how much he paid for them. That just proves my point. You worry about what you know.

The flasher for the hazard lights is the same type used for the turn signals. The hazard lights flasher is located at the passenger side relay panel. Since you hear a click with the horns, it may be that the horns are corroded. On my 73, I used a wire wheel on a dremel to polish the positive contact and grounding points. You should use silicone grease on those areas before re-installing to delay future corrosion. One way to reduce heat on the brake light circuit after you get the hazards working would be to swap out incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. LEDs draw less current.