2ManyZs

Check valve should have an arrow on it, it goes into the firewall bracket with the arrow pointed towards the Master-Vac.

The VIN number won't tell anything. The only way to confirm the original paint if the paint code sticker is not on the top of the radiator support would be to look in the interior. Look under the dash on the firewall and see what the original color was, or under the seats, carpet etc... IIRC the paint code for the Black Pearls was 638 if part of the paint code sticker is still visible.

TWM has airboxes as well, and they've got most everything else to build an induction system that looks very similar.... that is, if you've got the green.:cross-eye Just the airbox is 400 for an L-6....:disappoin http://www.twminduction.com/airbox.htm

I saw where Arizona Z Car is again making some of their fiberglass parts, but, they won't ship unless your order is above their minimum, whatever that is..... Not sure if they have a vented hood similar to the late 280 hoods or not. Reaction Research has cowl induction hoods.

I see a couple things that would make me take a serious look at the asking price.... First and most importantly is that bra on black paint! It looks like it doesn't fit properly, and more than likely flaps in the wind, which will screw up a paint job in no time. Be sure to have the bra taken off and look underneath! The engine bay being another color other than black, would make me take a serious look at the rest of the body work and paint work. If they are too cheap to pull the engine and paint the bay, did they cut corners somewhere else as well? The only good thing about the black paint, is that it is almost impossible to hide shoddy body work under black without it showing up like a neon sign. Non matching plastic in the interior is a small problem, but will cost quite a bit to make right. I'd take a serious look at the underside, just to be sure the floors and rails are in good condition. I'd also look at the suspension, it looks to have been lowered, but was it done correctly or did they just hack off the stock springs.... Looks pretty good, but, until the questions are answered, there's no way to give a good opinion on their asking price. I'd say it's in the "ballpark", but, it could end up being about 1K too high or more depending on the results of an "up close" inspection.

If "Bob" goes for more than a 4 hour trip while "living large" in his pseudo-Ferrari, will he need to go to the emergency room? The body kit looks fair, but having the stock interior makes it look pretty darn cheap..... Car is only half finished with the original interior.

They look very similar to the Appliance mags I had at one time. Definately aftermarket.

Hmm, I did the same thing as Mike, read it so fast I completely missed where you said you did the MC last.:stupid: MC has to be done first or any air that may be trapped will either stay in the MC or end up in the lines, calipers or the rear cylinders.

The parking brake trick works from the "off" position, it will take up the slack in the rear shoes (if they aren't adjusted tight enough) and give you a harder pedal feel as the shoes won't be moving as far to contact the drum. The pedal height should be 8 inches from the floor at rest. Measure it to the flat of the pedal pad, and make your adjustments on the piston at the pedal clevis. If the adjustment was off just a little before the change, it could be that it's affecting the travel just enough that it isn't moving enough fluid due to having the 2 extra pistons to pressurize. The MC woudn't "go bad" during an upgrade, but it could be the MC wasn't 100% and needing the extra fluid movement has only exaggerated the slight problem it may have had. IMO, upgrading to the larger MC is always a good idea when you upgrade to the 4 piston calipers or swapping for rear discs, or both.

Guess the obvious question is how old is the master cylinder? If it's fairly new, then the next obvious thing would be the adjustment on the pedal. If the master could be suspect, I'd go with a 15/16th's master from the ZX. You're asking the stock master to pressurize the lines now with 2 extra pistons in front, which will need a bit more fluid than the originals. Try pulling the handbrake up a notch or two, and see if the pedal feels better, if it does, then the rear shoes aren't adjusted correctly and need to be tightened up. Those are the most obvious things that I can think of.

FWIW, those threads were posted here as well about James, and since they were a personal attack on one of our members, they were deleted. We've never allowed those kind of attacks in the forums here, and never will.

I don't have any idea what nationality, hair color, or shape would be, but she'd definately be high maintenance :tapemouth

This the one your talking about Mike? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=7801&highlight=build+dates There's a couple other rather lengthy threads concering build dates, easy enough to find just using "build dates" in the search box.

I think Carl was referring to the dual downdraft Webers and not the triple DCOE's as being more of a problem than the original SU's. Triple Webers, Mikuni's, Dell Orto's are fine, but, they are fairly expensive to buy and much hard to tune than a set of SU's. And they will require much more maintenance than the SU's to keep in tune and synch. The dual downdraft Webers are only slightly better than a single 4 barrel in many people's minds as they don't distribute the fuel as well as the stock SU's.

Not exactly sure, but I believe that is the coolent temp, not oil. The later ZX's moved one of the coolant sending units from the front cover/thermo housing and put it on the side of the block.

That's one of the best Datsun/Nissan history sites I've seen yet. He has combined all the different race series, different models of cars, and put them in one place. Great job. There are quite a few other sites that cover only certain models that are quite interesting, but this site is the best for those of us that like to read about all the different models.

Guess it's time to replace the temp sending unit or go with a mechanical type gauge...the original sendin units have always been known to be innacurate, and the temp guage working properly is probably the most critical. 200-225 shouldn't do any damage if the engine is in good condition, any more than that, or on a high mileage engine could spell disaster.:cross-eye Of course, 190 is close to perfect...

It's definately not the best I've seen, but it most certainly isn't the worst either. I still like their original one better, this one has too large an opening under the bumper detail for my liking.

Actually a chirping or squealing would most likely be the belt. Howling is a whole nuther set of possibilities....:devious:

Also check your fan clutch, it may be locking up (or locked up completely) and it's the fan itself that is making all the noise.

I'd prefer Kats brought the car to the 2005 Convention in Syracuse so those of us that are "stuck" on the East Coast can meet him and see the car.:devious: Of course, any one of his friends are welcome to bring along their 432R's as well....

I put a category in the Gallery for your pics. Makes me wish I had gotten in touch with all the local Z Clubs about getting together at Brian Redmon's Jefferson 500 vintage races at Summit point coming up on May 14-16.:stupid: Guess I'll have to remember to do that next year.

Another reason the 72's seem to be the most popular is the fact that there were more HLS30 -US models produced and imported in that one year than were imported into the US from the very first 69 up to the 71 model year combined. One nice thing about the 240's is that there weren't a lot of major changes up to 72, at least not when compared to the differences between other manufacturers model years. No huge gains in the engine or drivetrain, or in the options available. Take a Corvette for instance, where a new model may have 50+HP advantage over the previous years car simply due to an engine that wasn't available the previous year. Personally I'd like to have one of each year up to 72...and by the end of the week I'm only going to be minus the elusive 69. :disappoin