2ManyZs

One thing to consider is that your car isn't lowered... if you go with too short a sidewall, it's gonna leave a lot of space in the fenderwell. One a 7 inch wheel, a good rule of thumb is not going more than 2 inches wider than the wheel with the tire section width. You shouldn't have any interferrence, but the wider the tire section width, the more likely you'll end up with a slight scrub either in the rear at the inner fender lip, or at the front at the front of the fenderwell while turning. Personally, I'd go with either a 205, 215 or 225 in either a 50 or 55 series. 55 series will have a slightly taller sidewall, but you'll also have a slightly improved ride with the taller sidewall. Even with 15 inch tires, the choices on sizes is slowly dwindling....

There could be some excess seam sealer on the body there that is causing the cowl panel to touch. My 71 had a lot of waviness there due to the factory seam sealer, and it goes all the way up into the windshield opening and down under the fender along the inner cowl panel seam where it meets the door jamb. Maybe try touching it up with a sanding block and see if it helps.

Well Walter, the only people that would know that would be some of the race engine builders with the tools and testing equipment (flow bench) that can answer that question with any authority (I'm just a "shade tree" mechanic:rolleyes: ). Every head is going to flow with different characteristics, and only someone that has tried all or most of the combinations will know the true story. One head may flow better with a 6 into 1 while others may do better with a 6-2 into 1, and the different header manufactures may use differing primary tube sizes/lengths that will make a huge difference as well. Someone like Phred would probably have the best opinions on which header to use the E-31/early E-88 head due to his racing engine prep experience. One of these days, maybe we can put together a list of the different heads that came on the Z's and list which header types and/or header manufacturers work the best in the real world or through flow testing.

Is there a D: All of the above answer? I'd guess since the compression has changed such a minimal amount, that you'd be pretty close with what you have now. If anything, I'd say it would go a bit lean, since you'll be having higher cylinder temps due to the higher compression, promoting a faster and more complete burn, which would mean you might need to richen it up just a bit. Of course, the combustion chamber shape may not work as well with the exhaust set up you have now, which could move the mixture the other way as well..... It would be another of those things you won't know the answer to until you do it.....there are so many other variable such as ignition strenght, plug heat range, etc that will play into the equation of the chamber volume and shape that I doubt there would be a hard fast rule as to which way it would go, especially if you use a different head instead of just shaving the one you are using now. Of course, there's always the possibility that all you would need to do is advance the timing a degree or two and then you'd be OK...

If it hasn't already been done, change the steering rack bushings while the engine is out, you'll be glad you did.....All the other rubber bushings can be changed with the engine in easily except these.

Another thing you could try is to put tension on the puller by tightening the bolt as much as you can by hand, then line the bolts of the puller at 3 and 9 o'clock. Then, from underneath where you have a little room in front of the oil pan, using a rubber mallet, give the backside of the balancer a couple good whacks, then rotate the balancer 180 degrees and do it again, tightening the bolt of the puller in between taps with the mallet. Since the puller is only pulling on either side, if the balancer is trying to come off a little off center due to you putting torque on the puller, it may just pop loose with a little tap on the backside. Kinda like the way you can pop a stubborn ball joint loose with tension on a puller. Just be sure to use a good rubber mallet as you don't want to bend or damage the balancer. Of that fails, try an impact set to a low torque setting as you don't want to pull the threads on the puller or snap off the bolts you are using to connect the puller either.

I guess since we've signed up for the newsletter, we'll have to wait and see what the big news is...

That's the way they are supposed to be, they are the same part for both sides and they interchange. You just flip one over for the opposite side. It's one more thing that Nissan saved money on so the car could be sold for a reasonable price....

Without Chloe, it would never be the same... :disappoin Guess we'll find out sooner or later what is going on.. :surprised

I didn't check the plug size in mine, but I think they are pretty close to the same size as the four in the bottom of the rocker panels. I'd say it's likely they may have been put there while the chassis was on the assembly line to hold the chassis in the correct alignment before final welding as Enrique alluded to.

Double check the vacuum lines, you may have bumped one and now you have a vacuum leak, or you may have one that isn't plugged (or is leaking)since you took off the air regulator.

Another way to look at is this, if that were a 73 Trans Am/Camaro/Cuda/Challenger/Corvette/etc and you found it in this condition and bought it cheap, would you chop it up and make it worth less than it would be worth in original condition? And jumping from one forum to another trying to incite a flame war is pretty pathetic to say the least. :bandit:

Well, we tried... I guess Cindy will be happy no one will try to take her seat away from her..

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ They have individual parts and complete linkage kits for the triples...

I can tell you from experience you will need the magnetic trigger, you can't connect it straight to the dizzy. It will not send a signal to the computer to fire the injectors without the trigger. I did the same thing many years ago, car started, loaded it on the trailer, unloaded it at the track and it wouldn't start again. Messed with it all day, killed a battery, ended up unhooking the MSD and it fired right up.

You'll have to buy the magnetic trigger seperately, and it isn't cheap either, but it is a necessity. In the Summit Racing catalog the magnetic trigger is 44 bucks and change, the other trigger for points is only 25.... I don't remember how you wire up the tach as it's been over 10 years since I did my old 75.. sorry.

The main thing you have to remember is to get the magnetic trigger for the MSD or it won't pick up a signal from the dizzy to fire the injectors. Other than that it's a pretty simple bolt in. I used Taylor race wires with mine and opened up the spark plug gap to about .040-.045.. can't remember which it was, it was a long time ago. Just use BPR7ES plugs to begin with and only after driving it a while should you consider changing heat ranges.

Arghh, always a catch.....

Stop complaining Rick, it's been 9 years since I last raced.... :tapemouth Ought to be interesting to see how you like being in the same "boat" I was in when I raced my 75... Remember those bumpers stick out a long way....

Can we trade the prize for a couple laps behind the wheel? :lick:

I heard them announce your name when they were handing out the awards, but when I went over to talk to you, you were heading out of the parking lot Jeremiah.... I was moving around a lot trying to stay out of the sun as much as possible...

Hehe, I just got back from a 950 mile round trip to the show in Syracuse...so I'm not up for a road trip right now... :sleep: 800 is about right Chris, I checked on the shipping for a non-op car from Penasacola to me and it was right in that neighborhood. But, you're right, they shy away from non-op cars. If you've got a pickup, you could always rent a U-Haul trailer one way, but, I'd almost bet the price of that is gonna be darn near the same as having it shipped. I checked into one from Atlanta to here when I went to get 809 last spring, and the one way rental price for a trailer shocked me to say the least. So, I traded a buddy of mine and old set of aluminum slots for a Z for the use of his open trailer and went myself. Cost me about $125 altogether (fuel and food) and did an 1100 mile round trip in 24 hours. :cross-eye

Sorry Ed, you must have been one of the ones I missed... :stupid: I didn't get hardly any pics, since John Jeffries "volunteered" me to be a judge in the car show, so I kinda had my hands full for a while Saturday, plus my brother was there to pick up my Mom and take her to his place for a week. Only pics I got were of the BSR race car that was there for everyone to drool over. Sorry if I missed anyone, but there's always next year at the Convention

Yes, I was talking about the control arm and probably the spindle pin bushings as well. But, before you do anything, have the rear camber checked. If there isn't a big difference from one side to another, it's remotely possible it was a defective tire, or something other than the bushings. Knowing what the camber is on each side in the rear will tell you more about where to start looking. No sense buying parts that aren't needed unless you just want to refresh everything at once.

Whatever has happened, it's not like Chloe to not let at least one of her good customers know what is going on, whether it be temporary or what not. I think that's why we are all a little nervous that something more serious has happened to her. Hopefully she's OK and is perhaps moving the business to a larger space?