carguyinok

Not sure about where you are but.... Around here some of the auto parts stores have tools for loan or rent. I would look for a vac style bleeder like this.

If all your looking @ is getting it up on the trailer drag it. Getting the brakes free may be a load more work then you want. Just get a come-a-long and start draging it. Not as if it will want to roll back or down off. Then when it comes time for unloading tie it off on a large tree or pole and drive away slow. Keep in mind I only say this because

That may not be the best thing for you to do. You may just be opening a can of worms with your insurance company. If you are just doing a upgrade with nissan parts keep your mouth shut IMO. The reasons I say this. #1 the insurance company is NOT your buddy thats going to say "ahh dont worry looks good:D " They are going to make money off this:devious:. Here you are asking if you need to pay more for doing this. #2 If you are going with stock looking nissan parts. The chance that you are in a wreck is slim anyway. But then the odds that the person inspecting your car will even see it or know better must be outa this world. The only thing that would change that is when you start painting or powder coating calipers and other things. For that (Race) look :stupid: Just looking to help. I have a background with finance and car dealers. I know how the insurance boys work here in the states.

Damn I hope this wasnt a member here. :dead:CAUTION MAY HURT WHEN VIEWED BY Z LOVERS

Wow, Harsh words there. I feel that there is some truth in there :sleepy: That makes me sad to say. But they did hit it on the head IMO. I have seen alot of real nice cars that had a very early death from lack of maintenance. I know more darn people that will drive a car or truck clean into the ground rather then pull in and get that check engine light taken care of. Half the ones that do take care of that light dont get it fixed. They just pull the bulb and forget about it. It would seem the other half just keep on driving till there saying "Do you hear that ?" Then act like they didnt know something was going out . :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: At the same time the car companys are just as much the blame. It was one thing when you could buy a car (like a 240Z) run it till the valves needed checking and do it yourself or pay the dealership for an hour of work . Now think about the bill for checking the valves at the dealer today on a GT-R LOL If they wanted to insure proper maintenance they just need to add a maintenance program in the price of the car. Its not a far out view IMO.

ROFL http://www.wreckedexotics.com/newphotos/nonexotics/other565.shtml :stupid: This ones is for the 4th of july from the 4th 2002.

HMMMM I would NEVER take a GOOD RUST FREE 240Z and cut it up for this. Maybe thats why I said my parts car ? The (kit) part of what I want has NOTHING to do with wanting a Ferrari or a wanabe Ferrari. There is no reason why someone must go with what the kit was made as. Why think inside the box? THINK OUTSIDE the box!!!! The parts that come with that dont all need to be used. Think about the one of a kind wide body kit that rear clip is the start of. Now take and use the wide body Porsche style front fender flare with the stock Z hood & front. :devious: For me it would be the start of a CUSTOM Z not a kit car or wanabe Ferrari. This is why I am looking into the one on e-bay I DONT WANT A KIT CAR just parts of a kit and at that price why not.

You may just want to look into getting your stock seats recovered. It would be a lot less $$$$ and you know they just bolt in.

This is not some thing I am doing :devious: I was looking for some other parts for a friend and came across that site. I saw the AUS part and thought of some people here that have asked ALOT about the motor swaps. Most of the time I stay FAR FAR FAR away from the guys shipping front clips and wont give them any time. But with these guys listing parts with cost and photos along with shipping charges. I felt it was rare and wanted to share. P.S. They have rear ends pulled and set to ship aswell.

True on the parts end of things. The only reason I put it up was they had shipping charges listed. Thats rare IMO. Worried about the price of interstate freight? We have negotiated the following freight prices to the cities listed below. Please contact us for other prices. To: engine only front cut Sydney $200 $325 Canberra $230 $360 Melbourne $160 $235 Tasmania $320 $515 Perth $330 $540 Darwin $385 $575 Alice Springs $385 $575 Cairns $465 $765 Townsville $465 $765 Brisbane $300 $500 International air or sea freight can be arranged prior to shipping. e.g. USA West Coast minimum 1Mcube is $500

Z-point you have a PM :beard:

I was looking around and came across this site . http://www.adelaidejap.com.au/index.htm They sell total package motors ECU and all. The prices look OK I just thought some people here would like to look. RB20 turbo Twin cam, 6 cylinder, 1998cc, 24 valve, RWD/4WD, early and late, 190 & 215hp respectively Early engine and box $1,500 Late Engine and box $2,000 Late only 5sp $550 Engine Package $2,500 (R32 type) only

:sleepy: This had me all set. I was ready to just go with the buy now. Then I saw this :mad: "Will arrange for local pickup only (no shipping)." :sleepy: I have been looking for one of these body kits @ a good price for along time. I have always wanted to play around with one on a 260 or maybe my parts 240. I dont think I could take a good Z and do it but there are more then enough so so Zeds out there for one of these.

MSA has new cables for around $75.00

What? Why does my engine bay have that metal plate with it saying 170HP? No way it's only 120.9hp.... I wish I had your answer. If I was to take a shot at it I would say maybe the tag is for HP @ the crank. I dont know. On the other hand with the car listed as a 5 speed. The owner may have made some bad mods on the motor. I have seen it many times. Kids go running for the highperformance parts with no clue and buy what ever is on sale that day In the end they take HP away with a miss match of parts. Another thing You are talking about a 30+year old motor. We may never know but the #'s where there just to make a point and not to say this is all L28s.

Your not blind I just wanted to show people some real HP numbers. I think its just way to easy for people to loose touch with the real world of HP. I am sure that the people with the 240s and 280 thought they where way over what they got and walked away looking like :sleepy: But did knowing the real numbers change how much fun the car is or how fast it would go ? More then anything I posted it for the point that you could get a Z running like a bat outa hell with alot less then 400HP and no need to hunt for import only parts.

For the cable I have found that the 3 in 1 oil works well. I have done it with the spray WD40 but found far less mess with being able to drip the oil in rather then trying to spray it. Another thing Look over the cable case and make sure it is kink free and that there are no flat spots in the case:stupid: Good luck, It's a very easy job yet very dirty if the car has had any oil leaks

I am not sure if it's the BEST way but.....:nervous: I pull the cable out at the trans. then feed it (without the gear) up near the firewall. Hold the cable as high above the motor as you can. Take a drill and get a bite on the cable where the gear hooks on. Now as you run the drill drip or spray the oil on the turning cable. One other thing I do is run the drill bolth ways once I have enough oil in the cable case. All I can say is " It works for me" and NO your drill wont spin fast enough to hurt the speedo.

http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/tech_dept.htm Click on Dyno charts Sorry about the post from another site but..... I feel that some people need to see some real world HP numbers. Please dont take this wrong I am looking to help give a clear view on real HP #'s and I am in no way saying 400HP cant be done. :stupid: It just takes money and lots of it at that.

Look here. http://freespace.virgin.net/c.coleman/supturb.htm

I have never seen one done. The thought has been there for me but not for the 240Z. I was thinking about looking around for a 70s datsun pick-up for that swap. A good friend of mine wrenches on big rigs and has been bugging me about doing a diesel motor. There are some very neat tricks you can do that will blow the minds of most. One set-up he has done in a pick-up with a inline 6 diesel had. Twin Turbo with propane injection and NOS. This sounds like ALOT but its all for pulling power not a race motor. Not that it wont pull a loaded racecar trailer with ease @ over 100 mph all damn day. IMO diesel motors are for trucks and tractors PLEASE dont try it with a real Z If you feel you must do it please go diesel ZX. :dead:

I would like to see some assembly line photos aswell. That is one thing I have never seen that I feel alot of people here would enjoy. ANYONE have any?

What's your favorite way to strip a Z?:tapemouth For me it would be that whole list other then paint over it and dip. The only reason for not going dip is $$$$$$$$ :sleepy: I still have not seen anyone around here that can bake or cook a whole body shell clean. But that would get into big $$$$$ again. Its all good. At this point I have ALOT more time then money anyway.

One real easy one here. When I had my vette I used a aftermarket tach with a rpm cutout that you set with a dial. All I did was glue the redline marker in place. This way when I left the car I just would turn the dial down so the car wouldnt run over 500 rpm. Yet the tach would look as if it was set for 8000. :stupid: This works good for valet parking aswell just set it for a cutout around 3000 rpm. Sure the guy parking may think its a POS that dosnt run for a crap. But they would only think this if they tried running your car rather then just parking it. :tapemouth

Here, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4492