carguyinok

There is a 240Z on e-bay in las vegas ( low rust) It has less then 24 hours left and still under $300. Whats wrong here? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1876878990&category=6187

I pull in to get some gas and there sits a rust free 82 280ZX. Not a spot on it. I go in and just asked the girl at the counter if its hers. She said " Yes I just bought it " I am thinking cool another Z person in town. Then she gose on " Yah I just picked it up from a guy for 500 bucks and it has heat so..." Now I am not a fan of the ZX but damn its clean gold on gold with t tops. And here she get it cuz it has heat thinking it nothing. with a person selling it in my town for nothing :sleepy: O Well I gave her my card and said call if you would like to sell it.

That sounds like the hole where the seat belt light is. Small hole about 2x2 in the center. It should have a red lens that lights up if seatbelt is not hooked up with the car on.

Thats good. I know some guys in MN. that made a two headed VW bug. They took two 1970 bugs cut them in half behinde the doors and fabed the two front clips togather. Then cut the floor pans on bolth and put front wheeldrive drivelines in both. You coud open eather side get in start one and drive off. You just had to make sure that the one not in use was in N with the steering locked. It was a real pro job . I wish I had some photos.

Something tells me this guys car must look as if it came off a MAD MAX movie set.

Well, if you are into V-8 Zs this will do the trick. 720 HP GM crate motor. http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Sneak/Previews.html

This is why you dont see blonds working at the veterinarians office. poor kitty.bmp

The way I have done this in the past. Get out your grinder or file. Put a flat edge on the locking lug. Then crank down the other lugs and take a hammer and a punch and tap the locking lug loose. Or put two flat spots on the locking lug and put a large visegrip one the locking lug and tap it loose. If you crank down the non locking lugs first the locking one will take less work too free it. P.S. If you have a grinder work on the lug asap after grinding. The heat from that will help free it up. hope it helps

I bet you that will leave a nasty cut on your leg if you walk to close to the rear of your car. I also smell a lawsuit if someone walking in a parkinglot hits that with there leg.

Open your phone book and look. If that fails I would look for someone who packs food for shipping. They use dry ice for shipping frozen foods.

I was looking around and found this http://www.invention.com/mattfield.htm I had used a heated razor knife along time ago and dont know where to find one but this is close. It would make fast work of tarpaper.

Yes, as 2manyzs said "The bottom end is strong enough to take a fairly good sized shot, that is, if the fuel and ignition system is set up for it. " It can take it. But you will hurt it real fast without setting up the motor for nos. You could make a few runs hitting the nos and see good #s. But you will be pulling the motor out real soon for new piston rings (If your lucky). I have used nos on a few cars now and will tell you now. If your motor is not upgraded for nos dont do it. Most of the stock motors( that I have seen ) with nos will blow out the rings or burn holes in one or more pistons. A motor set up for nos will have the whole motor redone for the bottle. The biggest thing is your compression. If you want to run the bottle on you stock motor drop the compression as much as you can and you could make your motor last alittle longer. But you will find yourself with a bad motor sooner or later. I know this is not what you where looking to hear. Sorry just what I have found and looking to save you some money in the long run.

Yes, on mine one key operates the 3 doors and the Ignition. The only other key for mine is for the locking gas cap (from the early 70s)

From the sound of things I would look at air regulator. It sounds more like a lack of air. This is just a shot in the dark. Adjustment of the air\fuel mix can be made at the air regulator. You will find this screw under a small rubber plug on the motor side if the sensor. clockwise is rich counterclockwise is weak. Hope it helps.

Well, here is my key.:sleepy: It has been worn out as you can see. The top hole is now about twice the size.

I have just started looking for the stock style key. The round top key with the Z cut in it. Mine shows its age so......anyone know who may have some blanks? I saw that msa has them with the locks but my locks are fine. :sleepy:

Boy I tell ya what a time for this post. Only two days late. Yes get the strongest bolt you can find. I was just moving my motor from my shop back home. We left the top of the stand on the motor and took off the lower part (legs) and after we get the motor home we pulled it out the back of the truck till we could get the legs under it while on the tailgate. so far all is good. We lift the stand and motor up and pull it out from the truck bed and set it down on the driveway. No big deal. I grab the stand and start rolling it. the first crack I hit put enough bounce in it that the top two bolts broke. Thank god there where two others with me that saw it start going down and where strong enough to slow the fall enough that nothing was broken or cracked. I will just call it the luck of the unlucky that nothing broke other then the bolts.

I would say that if you are going for the total stock car. Then keep it and fix it. If you are not going to fix it then pull it and set it aside. If you want real A\C for your Z then spend the money on a newer aftermarket A\C system. I have found most all A\C systems out of the 70s dont hold up or put out the cold air near as good or long as the newer ones. The newer pumps will take far less HP and cool much better in all rpm ranges where with the stock pump you may aswell shut if off when sitting still. And thats when you feel the heat in a Z as we all know.

For some odd reason I think his mom and dad are also brother and sister.

Look here. http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4492 sandpaper is the ticket. You can just polish but it will take you forever. The other part is keeping the shine. I use 3M perfect it automotive glaze or dri wash n gaurd by DWG international. The key is keeping the air off the raw metal. With paint style sealers you can get a fog haze or chipping over time. Have fun take your time and have a happy new year.

9:00 AM Channel 25 TNN Sunday, 29 Car and Driver Television 30 min. Segments include new-vehicle tests and classic-car retrospectives, as well as technical advice. (VCR Plus+ 824233) Rating: TV-G Category: Motor Sports & Auto info Additional Airings Date Time Channel VCR Plus+ Saturday, 4 11:30 AM 25 TNN 372181 Sunday, 5 11:00 AM 25 TNN 923495 Saturday, 11 11:30 AM 25 TNN 380362 Sunday, 12 11:00 AM 25 TNN 924386 This is for central time and the 350z is the first part of the show. sat the 4th should be a repeat

Car and driver television is doing a showcase test on the 350z this week. They say nothing but good things and the sound is well watch it and get goose bumps. This from someone who dosnt like the 350Z.

I think that is one of the best looking body kits for the Z that I have seen. Nice and clean. I like the rear roll pan. The only thing I dont care for are the tail lights. But thats just my taste.

I have talked with MANY painters nad would say that 90% of them have said the same thing. The STOCK paint is the best primer there is for street cars. The stock paint is stuck on the metal better then any primer could hope for without lots of money. They will (at a good shop) sand the stock paint down just enough for the wax and road junk are gone then sand out or fill chips and dents resand light wipe down with prep then shoot. This works for cars with stock paint in good \ fair paint with light fade or little damage. Not for the bad heat damage sun cracked paint. This is just what I have found out with doing many repaint for resale jobs for dealers over the years. The dealers I have worked for dont take paint jobs light. If you can look at the car and tell its been painted then its a bad \ rush job. In looking for a good shop. Take your time and ask around. Once you find one you like ask to look at there work. When you ask to see there work I would ask them to see a job in the same price range you are looking in. This way they dont show you some insurance job there getting big money for. Hope it helps and good luck.

Yes, the EPA is a real pain in the well neck at times. I cant say for sure on the sandblaster cabinet. I own a mac sandblaster mine is more for the body parts not the inclosed one. I have used them and been very happy with the ease of the work. But you can only blast what fits in the box. If I was looking at spending money for cleaning smaller parts and keeping the epa happy I would look into a parts cleaner. They are not alot of money and can make life easy vs. a drip pan and can of brake parts cleaner. here is a link if you would like to see what I am doing with my carbs. I will post some more photos of the intake soon. http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4492