Car Seat Replacements - New Z owner

[shoudt]

My 240z needs to get some new seats. I have read all of the seat posts. It seems like many different seats will fit. My problem is that I can not weld and I am on a tight budget.

What seats can I just swap out with out doing any additional work to fit them in my car. I know that I can use other 240z seats. It seems like I can also use 260z and 280z seats.

Does anyone know of any other seats that I can do a swap without doing any alterating?

Thanks.

[lordbiotree]

There are no seats that will fit without any changes. No 260,280 Z seats will fit. Have to switch out the rollers.

No other Datsun-Nissan seats will fit<-that I've tried

At www.zhome.com there's a write up on a Honda seat. Pictures and everything. sorry I do not have that link at the moment.

Personally I love the Original 240Z seats. Will use them until there dead then fix/buy new one's.

They make bolt-up racing seats for $$$$$$$$$$

-Brandon

71 240Z series 1

[lordbiotree]

Just now looking at your signature

I hope you enjoy your 71 240-Z

I love the 71's(I've got 3). There my most favorite out of all the Z's (including 350Z-which I like very much)

I've got a 70 too. Like 71's much better.

my 2¢

-Brandon

[carguyinok]

My problem is that I can not weld and I am on a tight budget.

You may just want to look into getting your stock seats recovered. It would be a lot less $$$$ and you know they just bolt in.

[shoudt]

Originally posted by lordbiotree

There are no seats that will fit without any changes. No 260,280 Z seats will fit. Have to switch out the rollers.

No other Datsun-Nissan seats will fit<-that I've tried

What is involved in switching out the rollers? Is that something a begining car guy can do with some muscle (have that) or is that welding type stuff?

[zed240au]

Changing seats in a 240 zed is quite easy really especially if your new seats have a flat bottom just unbolt your existing runners from your seats it the runners in place in the car and measure where the holes line up to mount the seat to the runners

Then its up to seeing where the mounts r on your new seats you can boly some flat steel between the runners and bolt your seat to that just drill holes to match seat and bolt together all depends where you new seat bolts up if your lucky it will have similar bolt centers so this will work other wise you will need to have a welder weld an square frame up to bolt to your runners and your seat still not a big job

I would steer away from replacemant seats that have mounts at different heights this would make it too hard.

My seats are recaro's that we stripped and customised

Mick

[lordbiotree]

You should be able to switch the rollers without a problem.

our Z seats don't recline the 73' onward do.

I can't say anything about later Z's. I've only owned 240's. Once had a 89ZXT.

Installing a set of Acura Buckets in a 240Z

http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/AcuraSeats/AcuraBeck.htm

Found the link for you.

-Brandon

[lordbiotree]

Subj: <FS> 240-Z parts..

Date: 7/3/2003 2:19:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time

From: [email protected]

To: [email protected]

Sent from the Internet (Details)

FYI:

Completely gutted the black interior my '73 240Z (complete dash, seats,

glass, visors, mirror, window mechanisms, center console, seat belts, hood

latch, fresh air vents, panels, etc, etc). About all that is left in the

car is the steering column and pedals. Most everything was there. Sorry,

in my rush I tore the diamond pattern vinyl pulling it out. It was about

105 degrees in my garage that day.

Some of this stuff is very good to excellent, some is just OK, some is not

too great. Let me know if you want any of it stuff before I

a) stick it up in the rafers of my garage,

toss it in my junk box,

c) just throw it away

Also have a never-used spare tire (It says Toyo Z-8 radial 175SR14) on

original wheel, tool kits, etc.

Prices range from free to whatever you think it is worth.

Also have a pair of Weber DGV with Cannon manifold adapters and a set of '83

ZXT wheels WITH Z centercaps I am sick of moving around the garage.

--John

Red '73 FP 240Z

just came in on the Z-car list.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by lordbiotree

You should be able to switch the rollers without a problem.

our Z seats don't recline the 73' onward do.

Which parts are you calling "rollers" ? 240Z seats have mounting tracks that are of a "slider" style, and attach to the seat supports with studs and nuts. My early 1972 240Z came with reclining seats from the factory.

Also, though I haven't done it myself, I have a friend who installed seats from an early 260Z into his 1973 240Z and he says it was a straight bolt on with no modifications required.

[lordbiotree]

Originally posted by BambiKiller240

Which parts are you calling "rollers" ?

Just an Allis. I cant think of car that doesn't have Slider style seats.

[shoudt]

Thanks for all of the input. I will start the process of searching for some good used seats. When I find some, I will let you all know how it turned out.

[Chino 240Z]

I just put in a set of Corbeau Forza seats in my 71. They are more for racing, price is about $220.00 each, but they look and feel nice! Corbeau makes a $60.00 sliding bracket that bolts to the bottom of their seats then into your stock holes. Well if you were closer to California I still have the stock passenger seat, no cuts, looks great, still firm, has it's orig. sliding bracket still, don't know what to do with? Some times you can find them for around $40. Anyone else need a seat?

[zrl]

is the 350z seat too big? how much is it? anyone?

[ardKore]

i think the 350Z seats would be pretty heavy and add unecessary weight to the 240Z. especially if they're power seats. weight=bad

[grnskyline]

hey shoudt,

I heard that seats from an mazda MX5 or miata, will fit in nicely, not sure about the sliding mechanisms. I wanted some for my 260 as theres no support left in the seats. The wreckers wants $250 a pop, bit pricey. let us know what you decide on.

cam

[260Zed]

grnskyline, ive been looking at mx5 seats too, found a pair for $350 but still weighing them up on my to-do list...

[240Z-freak]

I just bought myself a 240, and i love the thing, but not the seats, . You should get some "del slow" seats, they are comfy and not too hard to put in, they are pretty cheap if you go to a junkyard and find ones in good condition.

[shoudt]

Thanks for the input. I have decided to use replacement covers. I got the first one on OK. I am still trying to get one of the screws off of the other seat bottom so I can recover it. That screw won't budge.

I have soaked it in Liquid Wrench and WD 40. Tapped it with a hammer. It will not budge.

Any ideas how to free that one?

[abas]

I am still trying to get one of the screws off of the other seat bottom so I can recover it. That screw won't budge.

Any ideas how to free that one?

I had the same problem. Brace the seat frame and use an impact screwdriver. As you are replacing the seat covers it shouldn't matter if you damage the old cover when you hit it. If that doesn't work then it must be well seized and you will have to drill it out.

Just out of interest where did you get your replacement seat covers from? I got some from toointense, but I'm not 100% happy with them.

regards

AndrewB

[lordbiotree]

Shouldn't You would want to set up vibration and twist at the same time.

NEVER USE IMPACT TOOLS. They do more harm than good.

Get a good set of sockets. If you don't have a breaker bar (a 1/2 ratchet with about a 2 ft handle) take a steel (anything that's medal) pipe and put it at the end of your wrench. Then twist while your hitting it with a 3 LB sledge or at least a 22 oz hammer. The regular 16 oz homeowners hammer's SUCK. You'll learn that if you ever been in the construction business.

Hope you under stand. if not I'll clear things up a bit.

-Brandon

71 240Z

[abas]

For clarification – impact driver looks like a fat screwdriver with interchangeable bits that go in the end – about $10 at a tool shop: you hit one end and it provides a twisting force to remove a stuck screw)

NEVER USE IMPACT TOOLS. They do more harm than good.

Personally I think an impact driver is an indispensable tool ( and frequently the only way) for removing seized cross head screws, which I think is what Shoudt is dealing with. Perhaps I have misunderstood, but I don’t see how a socket set would help.

[Z Kid]

As someone who swears by an air impact ratchet to undo seized on bolts, why is hitting them with a hammer any better, the force from a hammer is often not in the right plane, and less accurate than the good old rattle gun?

[abas]

Agreed but I and I assume many others do not have access to air tools. An impact driver at $10 is 'cheap'.

For fairly 'beefy' items hitting them with an impact driver will not harm them. That includes z seat frames as I have been there. But I would not use one on unsupported sheet metal for instance.

Would an 'air hammer' deal with a seized cross head screw? Wouldn't it chew up the screw head if you didn't hold it REALLY tight against the screwhead? The beauty of an impact driver is that it forces the screw bit into the head of the screw it is to hold and as such is ideal to remove seized SCREWS.

I agree that for seized BOLTS an impact driver should be un-necessary. A breaker bar and socket ( or air hammer if you have one) is far better.

Just my opinion. Each to their own

Andrew

[SteveK]

I recenly refurbished my 240Z seats with some new covers and had exacly the same issues with the aforementioned screws, I used an impact driver to good effect after shearing the kamaza bit I was using (on the end of a ratchet and bar)

An impact driver if used properly is a very effective tool.

[Victor Laury]

The right amount of shock add to torque force, does nothing but good when loosening any fastener. Impact tools got their bad name by their improper useage by the bozo at the tire shop. Take a good look at him one time ..... His socket on that impact wrench is so very worn out, It's almost the next size up! So to start with, he's concentrating the force on the points of the fastners. Then, he doesn't care if the impact value is set too high or not "just spin em off" is all that matters too him.

Placing your phillips driver firmly into the screw-head and tapping the back of the driver lightly with a ball-peen hammer may allow you to extract the screw without damage. The same method is employed, no matter what the scale, from 1/32'' to 10''. In my industry, to loosen a 4'' nut, you use a 3 foot long wrench and a 2 pound mallet. The shock allows you to remove the fastner with just enough torque with out damage.

When I nod my head, you hit it.