madkaw

Have most of the AC pieces for early ( pre 73) ARA system . Very nice underdash evaporator , plus extra evaporator, compressor , bracket , pulley , 200$ for whole package or separate pieces . The compressor , though dirty has a rebuilt sticker on it , but no knowledge if it works complete air smog pump system with good hoses -50$ Timing cover - good condition - 40$ 280zx AFM - sorry don’t know year and if works . Glad to test for buyer if I what tests to do. Came off a very clean motor. -25$ r180 diff - super clean -75$ All prices are best offer and don’t include shipping . shipping is from 47401

If I had room I might consider keeping it - but I’m Lucky enough that I already own a very nice Z. I also have another 1972 Z that I want to make a lemons racer with. So right now the plan is to just fix the car up and sell it for funds for my other Z‘s.

Without putting a gauge in there - you still are guessing .

Is this car a keeper or is going on the market ?

might think about putting a fuel pressure gauge on there to see what’s going on . I had a zxt that was giving me a fits and it was a clogged return line. Showed almost 100 psi at one point - don’t know how things didn’t explode -

I think you are right Lumens , it all adds up. The diff was open - though solidly mounted . The engine was the sneaky part . I didn’t race or solo cross at all ,so not familiar with the rules as far as mods. So it looks as if he ran a stock cam on a shaved head ,bigger valves , but punched the block out to 86mm- which no one would know unless it was cracked open . It had triple Weber’s and a header at one time . Kind of fun trying to put the puzzle together

Maybe those centerline wheels rubbed just on that side . They do have a negative offset . I’m going to run the wheel up into the well when I pull the spring and see if that’s the case . I have heat in my studio or I wouldn’t be out here

wheel well lip

Fortunately the PO’s didn’t do much else to the car. Cut off the lip on the drivers side rear quarter - just the drivers side?

Did some serious bodywork today removing bad bodywork-lol. I got lucky that this guys fiberglass didn’t stick to anything much . I just tapped the marker area with a hammer and popped out the filler. It was a bad idea , badly executed, thank goodness ?

Wow- not getting any better is it

Very nicely done - congrats . You’ve set the bar too high for me - but it’s fun too watch !!

Oops

I’ve read where Blake has said less than .7- but doesn’t recommend it for the average builder . I think he ran less than .6 Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I thought it was 1.25mm Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

What I meant as far as measure is to install a piston in the block on the crankshaft and measure the ‘pop out’ of the block. I would be surprised if any additional thickness of HG would be necessary .

Only way to know for sure is to measure Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Or just shave the block deck. I’ve not measured a stock piston height on the 2.4 , but my ITM pistons were 0 decked compared to stock L28 being + .018

Right- how about a small vacuum leak- lean , plus advance that doesn’t work that is supposed to help with lean conditions of cruise . Just dial in 18 or so initial and plug the vacuum advance until you find a diaphragm

For now - you could just disconnect your vacuum advance and set your initial timing to around 18 degrees . This will give you plenty of timing for driving and you can see if your accel issue gets any better .

I believe those year dizzys were problematic as far as the inside guys sticking and breaking , so I would guess ignition issue FIRST before anything else. Could possibly be mechanical advance issue. Need to open up that dizzy and look

I believe I read somewhere that the dash pad will have built in nut plates to screw in your OEM metal frame. Best way to do it in my opinion.

If he builds engines he will surely figure it out . That could be anything from a large vacuum leak to a wet dizzy cap

Are you building a turbo with that engine combo? Not sure if there is just one kit that covers everything . You’ll wind up buying a timing kit and piston kit and gasket kit, etc.... Maybe one of the vendors sells a compete over haul kit

I don’t see any comments regarding the clutch fan assembly. I also think you remove the freeze plugs at this point and get all the rust out .