madkaw

Could be several things like head gasket or valve guides. Is the car running good or the same as before you noticed the smoke? How do the plugs look? Is the car overheating? You can always borrow a coolant pressure tester from autozone and do a pressure check on the system. The pressure should rise with a blown gasket.

I've heard of this done, but never have seen any finished products. Grinding down the float bowls would slick it up for sure. Love the innovation of the Z community!

Not to sound arrogant, but for me it is everyday I drive my car is a car show. Getting all the "thumbs up" and "nice car", and 'man that's SICK' is what it's about for me. I didn't build my car for show, but for me it was wanting to beable to say "I did that". And the most important part of saying- I did that- was the personal touch I put on my car to make it different than anyone elses car. I have only been to 2 Z car shows since my car was completed(never really done, but...) and it was all about the adventure of traveling there and hopefully meeting guys like you all there at the show. It's also about seeing things others have accomplished on their cars. I did win people's choice at the midwest Z show in Ohio, which was greatest trophy I could have won. It showed me that my personalized car did strike a chord with others in what we thought looked good on a Z as far as tastefull mods. It's a shame it was so freaking hot that it took away from the fun of hanging about the cars and telling war stories. As far as the judging-well at the midwest Z show it wasn't done all that great. I don't want to be critical becasue the judges were all voulenteers that had to work in the crazy heat. It was a lot of work to put on an event like that in that heat and the staff did a good job making sure everyone was as comfortable as possible. The biggest complaint I has was during their inspection the judging team left gas doors open on several early Z's and walked away. It was an easy way for damage to occur on these fragile cars. Next year the midwest show is in my back yard and I hope to help and maybe use some stuff I learned to make the show a success. More than anything I hope to make more friends in the Z community

I think it would be a lot of work and money and weight for little gain vs. just getting a EFI intake and committing to EFI. In the end I think the ECU would dictate the performance and I think it( aftermarket ECU) would make significant gains in tune and power. The idea is doable for sure, and I have thought of it myself, but in my case my triples are so nice I would assume selling them to pay for a true EFI set-up, maybe even true ITBs. Now if you had some junk triples laying around you want to junk, than sure. But I would think the reason they were junk is because the throttle shafts were worn more than anything and that's what you need. In my case, I just purchased a project off of ebay that someone started using a Cannon triple manifold mated to a homemade plenum . I will be weding EFI bungs to the manifold and go with a single throttle body. It seems the cheapest route and probably the easiest tunable set-up over ITBs

Not sure you want to go ahead with a turbo with this set-up. You started down the path of a NA set-up with your head and now your compression ratio will be high for a turbo engine. Shaving 74 thous. off the head and now turbocharging might not be a good idea. Not sure what octane of fuel you have over there which will have some bearing on this issue. A higher compression turbo build would be great, but it would be tricky to tune and get right without blowing up!!You would need to run a better ECU than stock. We all made comments regarding NA motors, but not turbocharging, so you might need to think again.

I thought stock compressed is .047, which is 125mm I believe. As far as an Ishino gasket, I'm not sure. When i removed my old HG, which I can't be certain, but I think it came from an old MSA kit, it measured right at .047 compressed. I wouldn't want to argue with Rebello either-I'm just a hack mechanic:0 I have searched the Hybridz pages for hours, especially on the squish issue. The numbers that I quoted came from a post deep inside a thread that 1fastz commented on about squish. HE acted asif he had devulged his best secret about these motors! But then you get into the argument about what standard deck height is on the flat-tops, and then numbers start flying around again. Braap chimed in saying that he measured countless blocks and the flat-tops averaged .019 above deck-so is this true? I guess every engine needs to be checked by someone with some good skills and mics.

A lot of numbers being thrown around here. As far as 1fastz , he actually says optimum clearance of piston head is more like .021-.025. This requires shaving the block and or mating the right HG size. 1fastz doesn't put all of his info because he's afraid of steering someone into precision they can't pull off. I'm running around .025-.027 I would just order a Nismo gasket and know what your getting- pricey-yes! I believe .040 is too much for an NA engine. Sounds like a good engine combo- good luck

A lot of numbers being thrown around here. As far as 1fastz , he actually says optimum clearance of piston head is more like .021-.025. This requires shaving the block and or mating the right HG size. 1fastz doesn't put all of his info because he's afraid of steering someone into precision they can't pull off. I'm running around .025-.027 I would just order a Nismo gasket and know what your getting- pricey-yes! I believe .040 is too much for an NA engine. Sounds like a good engine combo- good luck

Okay you Weber guys, besides the specifics slated for your carbs, was there some general wisdoms discussed for triple carb operators?? Would have been there but couldn't make the 16 hour drive! Things of interest to me would be Venturi sizing in relation to engine size, intake length?

Pertronix on your dizzy or an e12 80 from a zx . I would recommend the zx dizzy and don't look back. Search it and you will find all the info

Exedy clutches are good and you can buy them all day for 100.00

Better start from ground zero. Set the engine to TDC compression and remove dizzy and check alignment of shaft and alignment of rotor. You might be off a tooth and the way advanced timing was to make up from there. You never know what the PO has done with this car and don't take anything for granted.

Good luck on the sale. I have been studying the eBay sales since I will be marketing a 71 in the near future. What I have seen is that there is no ryme or reason to what these cars bring on a given day. The values seem to be based on purely personal taste of the buyers. Then there's te question of how much do you fix or not fix, to make it presentable.

Don, So are you running SU's ? Have you or do you know how to set float levels? You stated that the car feels like it is running out of gas- maybe it is! Float level is very important , and revving it up in the garage tells you nothing about loading float level.

Or you can borrow a vacuum tester/ guage from maybe an Autozone and measure engine vacuum and test the "dizzy" at the same time.

Okay, so you said you checked the carb tune and it was good-can you explain what or how you tuned or synched the carbs?It seems to me a carb tune issue. What experience do you have with SU's and what experience does the "shop "have? Did you check the synch at 3000 rpm?

Not sure why you started a poll for this issue. It helps us diagnose issues with a detailed history of any engine work or engine status; I.e. Any recent work done? Did this issue just start recently? Did you make sure that your coil and dizzy are impedance matched? Why an electric pump and a mechanical? What kind of carbs? Engine rebuilt? Compression check?

Black looks good on an engine and I did the por-15 paint-no regrets-EXCEPT, when you have any oil leaks, it's much harder to see them or where they originate with a black engine. But you won't have any leaks;) Looking good!

Sure sounds like you are fighting a vacuum leak- maybe your brake booster which would tie the brakes into all of this. Check your banjo bolts as suggested above Don't drive the car until you have the brakes figured out- that's a bad scenario ! Disconnect your vacuum line from the balance tube that goes to your brake and note any changes. What's your timing doing at idle and full advance.? Condition of battery? Is your battery receiving full charging voltage ?

You need to define ' not running good'. Any other history on the motor will help

Not sounding good. A compression test will tell you if you have damage. Just because there is no noise now doesn't mean you escaped damage- you might have just clearanced your valves with your pistons

Good luck getting racing carbs to act like FI! In no way am I being sarcastic , it's just the way I am looking at my triples. Not sure you can get racing carbs tuned well enough to stomp on them at. 2krpm and think they will react the same as stomping on them at 4krpm. At 2krpm there is probably too much fuel for your engine to swallow- thus hesitation. Then your AFRs look way off while the motor is trying to burn off all that fuel. Thankfully you enjoy tinkering, because it will take a ton of it!!!

My RX-7 pump puts out over 3psi easy. I am also running fuel via dead head method . I am suprised you aren't getting more---especially with the engine not running

Gotta have a L6 in it. For me--I would build a turbo Z to fullfill my HP needs. Though I have nothing against someone doing the LS1 version, I would rather pop my hood open to a beautifully polished out L6.

Not a FI guy, but sure sounds like the cold start valve, especially if the engine does better when warm. Of course that is probably all tied into the other switches you mentioned. Google EFI BIBLE, might be helpful. Should be some simple OHM tests for testing those switches also- check your FSM