madkaw

I am suprised more owners don't make this a DIY project. You don't need a fancy metal brake-just some wood clamped in a vise works well. Metal can be ordered precut for next to nothing, or visit your local DIY store. Maybe it's just me, but spending 120.00 for a piece of bent metal seems like a lot. You could mess up 3 times making your own and still be ahead cost wise. I do understand that not everybody here is a DIYer though.

Looks like I need to take some more vacation time!!!

Sorry I didn't reply. The air gap is supposed to be there I believe because the warranty would be void for glueing the cover in any spot OTHER than the edges. I can't imagine it would "dent" in any way. I can't imagine what circumstance would possibly cause a dent. The cover lays really close to the original dash, but you can tell there is a slight air gap. The gauge returns are fairly deep, but the issue i see is that some don't sit completely flush against the original dash. I would think with some heat you could get the cover flush enuff to get the gauge out---or maybe not- Now that the dash cover has been on there for a while-I still like it.

Might take the alt to another store and get a second opinion. Also take the battery and get it tested.

Jesh guys- lighten up

The baby turbos made by Vitalino look like a good choice also.

Yes , sheetmetal screws. The kit came with plastic inserts for the screws, but then you would have to enlarge the original holes. If you look at the bracket, it is made to accommodate various spacing. No wind noise driving today - windows up.

Sorry about the first post being a teaser, just got ahead of myself. Anyhow, here's a bunch of pics-what do you think? I like them, though a little more 'in your face" attitude, but that's what makes them useful. I liked my California mirrors, but useless. The longer stems put the mirror much closer to eye level. On the driver's side this is really prevelant and gives you a fantastic view. The mirror stems also push the mirror firther forward on the car which also helps with view As far as quality, I really like the way their made. The base is solid, and the twin arms(stems) are on ball sockets that allow for a lot of movement. There's no tightening the mirror adjustment, the ball sockets adjust and stay put-they are very tight. The mirror also adjusts, so there is a wide range of adjustments. Price; 90$ on ebay, a guy had 4 sets. Based on what I have used before, they are a steal. Time will tell, but they seem to be made well.

My ZG flares are on the way from Japan and my Vitalino Turbo mirrors are here waiting to be mounted. Excited about no rubbing tires- not excited about putting the Z under the knife.

Last years Midwest Z show was great-but too damn hot. Hopefully weather will be better. It was a pleasure meeting all you z guys there.

I'd like to add that this is some beautiful country and the roads are great. 17 miles away is Bloomington(my home town) that is home to Indiana University, and with a university town there is lot's of things to see and do. Great eateries and a great nite-life, hope we have a great showing.

Norm, you shouldn't have gone and did that. Now your life will be turned upside down. The obsession will start and eat away at you every minute of the day. You will be getting up in the middle of the night and going to the garage just so you can get something done on that car. You will become the rust police searching in every crevace of that body to erraticate the villian. Z parts will fill your house and your friends will call you a hoarder. All your relationships will have to overcome the Z obstacle. Your credit rating will go in the crapper by maxing out your credit cards on go fast parts. Your life is doomed by the dizease. Welcome to the club!

accurate to my limited knowledge:)

I will say that the graph seems pretty accurate -well done. Looking at the heads again, you do show progressions in the e-88 head. Not sure how you can show the e-88 and e-31 sharing the same combustion chamber for a short period of time.

It would be nice to see more precise info regarding the cylinder heads. The main issue would be the E-88 generation heads, since there was at least 3 versions. Example is my 9/71 E-88 had the smaller chamber size of of the E-31. Why? For folks looking for a certain CC chamber size for their build.

If you buy a cheap one you will regret it. The rotary tools come in two versions-junk and quality with about a 100.00 difference at least. Don't buy a harbor freight one and think you will be happy. Cheap ones vibrate badly and put your hand to sleep or in pain. The heavier the better. Eye protection is manditory with those wire brushes!!!!!!!!!!!!! Looking good.

Hell, you stole the seats for 460$

Did you find this thread on Hybridz Japanese N/A L6 400hp, how they do it, pictures I've found, etc. Not 56k safe - Non Tech Board - HybridZ

Actually they are convex where the nut goes- concave towards the manifold

I just sold some with the covers. They are just flimsy pieces of cardboard-nothing fancy at all.

I just redid all my emblems using my plastic model enamel paints. The white was just a gloss white, but it looked great.

I'm tired just reading this thread-good work

Just test the door for up and down play by lifting it at the end- worn hinges will be evident

I think the game changer as far as paint schemes is the trim . Blacking out the trim opens colors and schemes to a more modern look IMHO

I have the Lincoln 135 and it's excellent . Haven't had any issues. Get a welder set up for gas. You can weld up to .250 with the 135 if you use heavier wire and take several passes. A 220 is more versatile , but the hobbyist will get it done with the 135. Lincoln welders are everywhere and so are parts