240ZX

59ghia, This is pretty typical when the springs have been replaced with aftermarket units. Why? Probably because the front springs have a higher rating. Regarding the sway bar, it very unlikely they are causing the front to sit higher than the back, unless they are binding somewhere. As far as adjustable sway bars....the adjustment is at the point where they attach to the control arm. Adjustable sway bars have a number of attachment holes in the end of the bar so you can increase or decrease the amount of force the bar will have....The attachment holes at the end of the bar will be the softest setting and the attachment hole farthest inboard will be the hardest setting. Basically, a sway bar only comes into play when the car starts to roll from cornering forces....they do nothing when going straight! Cutting the springs down is not a prefered method for properly lowering, but has been done. Lets face it, to address the ride hieght problem you will have to take the springs out anyway so you may as well see if you can get a shorter spring...they are relatively cheap. If you decide to cut the springs down, be careful how much you remove. Remember, that by shortening the spring it will increase the spring rate and if you remove too much you have the potential of coil-bind under full compression. There is always the possibility of putting a coilover setup in the front and then you have the freedom to adjust the ride hieght. Hope this helps a little. Good luck and keep us posted on your results.

Those Porsche's that got crunched by the train....it happened just the other day in Ventura California (home turf). What a bummer! It would have been tragic had they been Z cars!!! By the way, the older gentelman that told me about it, mentioned that if anyone ever has this happen (vehicle/trailer high centered on train tracks) to them.....all one needs to do to prevent a collision is to take a set of jumper cable and attach them to each track. This will cause a short in the tracks' electrical circuit (just as though a train was coming in the opposite direction) which in turn signal an oncoming train that there is something blocking the tracks. Sounds good to me!

.....put it where the sun don't shine!!!!!!

Luke, Ed makes a good point with regards to adding a light weight oil in the strut housings. Also, when torqueing the nut assembly, that holds the shock in the strut housing, be very careful not to nick the shock shaft. Place a few layers of tape on the shaft or slide a piece of tubing over the shaft to protect it, in case the wrench slips off the nut (which has a very narrow wrench flat area).

Luke, The only advise I can throw your way is, be sure that the new urethane bushings are well lubed when installed. Use only the provided lube! The lube is some sticky s_ _t and seems to get on everything when working with it, but be patient and apply it to all areas of the bushings that will see movement............otherwise you could end up with a great handling car that squeaks like hell!!!

Good call Bill !!! I guess it takes a younger guy to REMEMBER an important B-day. HAPPY BIRTHDAY Mr. K

James, I've never heard of wheel spacers being illegal on U.S. cars. On my set-up, I have replaced the standard issue Z studs with 1/2" x 3" Morrosso studs. The studs run completely through the spacers, hence the 3" long studs.

Sorry to hear you broke the plasitc base. Correct me if I'm wrong, but those mirrors are not originally intended for the Z, correct? I used to have a set of "TURBO" rear view mirrors on my 1970, that can be purchased from MSA or other suppliers for about $50.00 a pair (see my gallery). They are a black, nice looking, and securely mounted mirror setup. From your pics, it appears to me that the plastic base and mounting plate contact each other and do not allow sufficient clamping force (if any) when installed. I don't believe the securing nut should bottom out, even when properly secured to it's originally intended car. Just bust out and buy some new mirrors....you know you want them!!!

Victor, The wheels I'm currently running have 35mm of offset, however I have turned custom spacers to properly position the wheels on the Z. To be more specific on the new wheel sizing.....I calculated that if I go with 7 1/2" wide (f) and 8 1/2" wide ®, I can use a 22mm offset. This would position the outside of the new wheels within 0.3mm (0.0118") of the current wheels. Regarding a 4 stud wheel, I would think the factory could facilitate my needs upon request....at a price of course!!!! By the way, I love the looks of my current boat anchors. From my searchs on 3pc wheels @ 17" diameter, they are all about this weight unless you get into a forged wheel. Anyway, thanks for your input Victor.

I've been researching different wheels to put on my 240Z (see gallery). I like the looks of the current wheels, but want to go with a light wheel package. My current Altstadt wheels (17"x 8" 35mm O.S. & 17"x 9" 35mm O.S.) weigh in at approximately 21 to 22 lbs each. The wheels i've been looking at are: Volk TE37, Volk SE37K, and Gram Light 57S (@ same sizing as current wheels). I would likely go with a bronze or gunmetal finish. As you know the first two choices would cost around $2000.00 for a set and the last choice about $1000.00............of course, the last is a cast wheel while the first two are forged. OK, I know the forged units are stronger!!! All three of the choices weigh in at between 14.3 lbs to 19 lbs. So, I could reduce my total un-sprung weight from between 12 lbs to 30 lbs. New wheels could mean up to 7 1/2 lbs less un-sprung weight per corner. I would certainly think I would notice a difference in suspension responce and maybe a slight gain in acceleration. If I go with the new wheels, the Altstadt's will be up for sale. So, can any of you race experienced guys or gals add to my investigation of new wheels....sure would appreciate it!

Marc, if I may be so bond to say.....If you cant tighten the mirror base attachment enough to keep it from moving, as indicated in your pic, you need to figure out why it's not providing a sufficient holding force. Take your time, take it apart, and figure out what is going on......then you will likely find a simple fix, without band-aiding it. If you can provide pictures of the mirror assembly, at each stage of disassembly, we may be able to supply you with some applicable solutions.

Man you guys are fast......two post pop up before I can get mine out!!!! Christopher's suggestion on using PB is surely based on experience..........good suggestion there Chris!!!

Allan, I'm not one to advocate one product over another, so what is the best remains to be seen! However, good old WD-40 works quit well when librally applied and is allowed to soak in for a day or two. Anyway, WD-40 (or similar products) has worked well for me, for many years.

Gee, I wonder why the guy isn't getting any bids??? Even if this is a typo, $5K would still be on the high side....don't you think. To put things in perspective....put this car along side of Tod Kaneco's Z and tell me which one you think is worth $50K !!? Hell, I'd take $20K for mine.

I'm with Carl......just a little too much $$$!!!

Darwin Award recommended!!?

Hey Steve, how's the race car doing? Is this engine your working on out of the racer? Sounds like a lot of good ideas, regarding the removel of the flywheel bolts. Here's another one, that I used. Take a couple of bolts, with enough of a shoulder, and install them in the pressure plate housing mounting holes on the flywheel. Placed them such that they allowed access to the six flywheel bolts when a bar is levered against and across them. Place something under the bar to stop crank rotation or have an assistant hold the bar. If your really good you can handle it yourself (I know you can!) You can use this method for removel and installing the flywheel bolts. Let us know how it goes. If you get frustrated.....have another glass of wine. Good luck and nice hearing from ya! P.S. Have you put any more thought into the Santa Paula Airport deal. Let me know and if you want some assistance. I'll be glad to help out.

Shannon, are there any local Z car Clubs that can recommend a good machine shop?

Next thing you know, we'll all need to pitch in and donate to a worthy cause.......getting Carl layed. Aren't there any available KINKY women in Pleasanton that can help you out Carl?

Sound like the typical case of the Rusty Z car blues to me! If you are a perfectionist, you may want to consider removing the door and have it dipped. POR-15 is good stuff and there are other products that are meant to be applied over light surface rust to stop the rust from further growth. Maybe POR-15 works the same...I'm not sure. Anyway, at least you are addressing the rust monster. There are no easy ways to kill the beast unless you have penty-o-money and can afford to have someone else do it for you. Sorry I have no secrets to share on this subject....good luck xray and welcome aboard.