240ZX

Try going to TIRERACK's web site ( or similar site) and do the regular search for that size tire, there are many to choose from. Hope this help some!

Suggestion #1 - Round Suggestion #2 - Rubber Well...........I just couldn't resist!!! omegaz, you may want to supply a few more details....like, wheel size/width, gearing, and maybe how you intend to drive the car. :surprised

Gary, you're one of the few guys I've seen post this information and I couldn't agree with you more. I viewed a post earlier today on Hybridz and this guy included a nice picture of he workmanship on redoing his Z. Guess what, he had completely replumbed his brake lines and clutch line with copper!!! I kindly recommended to him he reconsider and then explained to him about copper workhardening. I quess if people are unaware, it might seem OK, but what they don't know is that they are playing with fire. :stupid: I quess thats why these car sites are so valuable to the car owners attempting to work on their own cars.

Hi Tom, The answers to your questions can best be answered if you visit the HYBRIDZ site. They are very much into engine conversions. This sites focus however does not lend itself to these issues......as a matter of fact, some on this site will poo poo on you for even thinking about changing out the L6 motor for another. We have a wealth of knowledge available on this site about the early Z cars.....but be advised, "engine conversion" can be a dirty word around here....at least to some! I have to confess, when I started in with my rebuild of my 1970 (s/n HLS3002126) I had plans to transplant a Ford 302 into my Z. I wanted a car that would remind me of my highschool days....I had a 1965 Mustang that was fairly peppy. My best time at the drags was 14.00 @ 100.3 mph...not bad for a mildly modified Mustang with an automatic trans. Anyway, back to the Z car, I decided, due to the amount of $$$ I was pumping into the Z, to dress up the L6 motor since it only had about 40,000 miles on it and put it in until such time came to do the 302. Well, let's put it this way........the L6 is still in the car and I don't believe it will ever be changed out for another motor. Why you may ask, it has to do with the original personality of the Z, the sweet sound of the inline 6 cylinder, and I know myself too well.....if I had big HP in my Z I would defenitely use it, which translates into tickets that I don't need. Currently I have a 2800cc L6 motor from a 280Z (N42) with the original intakes and SU carbs. With the minor mods I've done I estimate I have about 160 HP at the flywheel.....plenty of power to have loads of fun with. I did however, do extensive modifications to the suspension and brakes so it would stick like glue through corners. Like I tell people who ask about how much I like my toy...."It's so much fun to drive, it should be regarded as illegal". Anyway, give HYBRIDZ a try. Good luck Tom! Another Z car nut, Tom (240ZX)

Jason, Your explaination is pretty vauge! If you can be more specific, assisting you may be easiers. When going through this exercise, you have to make sure you have covered all the basic tune-up things like timing, plugs, valve adj., etc., etc. If you think you have a vaccum leak, try spraying someting like starter fluid (remember its flamable) around the manifold gasket area. If the RPM increases when you spraying the starter fluid, you've got a leak. Now comes the fun parts...fixing it!!!

Sorry to poop your bubble here....but based on your explaination (i.e., turn one wheel and the other rotates the other direction) you have the standard open differential.

You are correct.....but not where I come from! On my planet {wives} translates to....a skin problem aquired from having too many wifes.

I'm an alien visitor, from the 4th quadrant, beyond the Gzxionia system. My mission, here on the third rock, is to accumulate enough data to varify our desire to reside here. Through the decades, I have encounterd many strange customes and practices, especially the humans facination with automobiles. Continually, in my reports, I suggest that there is no logical reason to inhabit this small and very hostile but quaint planet. However, one day approximately three decades ago I discovered the humans had created this most interesting automobile. They even gave it a secret code. It's code name is 2, 4, 0, Z. Somehow this human machine promotes the same feelings as when I have xes with my ten wifes!! Amazingly enough to this day the humans painstakingly take great pride in owning these fasinating machines. So, I purchased one of these machines, brought it back to life and am now convinced there is a valid reason to be here. My next report will read...."I'm staying!!! And tell my ten wifes a Z car is by far easier to live with and certainly more pleasurable than they are....period!!! See ya!"

I,m getting a real out of this post! There is no rocket science involved in the Z car brake system, it's just basic hydraulics being applied. I have to agree with Miles, there's a lot of misinformation being posted. What miles said is correct. Carl is have a hard time here, so many things are happening!? That OK buddy, we still love you and your brakes will work even if you don't understand the system completely. (I'm trying to humor you here Carl). Is everyone on the same page yet? :classic:

Chris, My hats off to you. You are truely a brave man, for sure a diehard Z guy, to take on this restoration!!! Now thats love if I've ever seen it. Its guys like you that help keep Z fever alive and well. Wishing you all the luck and patients. Tom P.S. If I lived a little closer I'd join your celebration, but Florida is just a bit out of my way!

I believe the unit pictured by Walter is in fact the proportioning valve, at least for the early Z cars that I'm familiar with. Mine has the same unit. Carl, the valve may not be connected to the front brakes directly, however, the line pressure to the front brakes and supplied to the input of the proportionong valve are the same pressure. Why? Because the diameter, travel, and applied force to the pistons in the master cylinder is the same. The pressure out of the proportioning valve is less than the input pressure....hence the proportioning. For the rear disc conversion, just remove the internal parts from the valve, as recommended. Works great for a street application.

Gawd, Just think for a minute what it would be like to drive that baby unabated! Oh, I'm getting faint..........

Excellent advise Stephen!!! I remember back, when redoing my 1970 tank, I had an intermitant fuel starvation problem, even after I had cleaned the inside of the tank numerous times. I finally went into the tank (with fuel in it) with a flexible bore scope and low and behold there was this little piece of stuff that would drift over the fuel pick-up line and stop the flow. Now removing the piece of stuff was another issue since the tank was installed. Oh well, live and learn.

Mike, It's a possibility that the ring may be made of SS. As an example...304 SS does have some magnetic properties, although not alot. One grade of SS (316L, used in medical tools and with alot of nickle content) has zero magntic properties because it has no carbon steel in it, as opposed to the 304 which has some. SS in the 400 series has even more carbon steel in it. And as one would suspect, the more carbon steel it has the more it will rust, although not as extreme as say A36 steel (very common structural steel). Anyway, I though this might help you all out. Just remember some grades of SS will rust and have magnetic properties.

Who said anything about pulling an engine? 26th, are you trying to stir thinks up here? :laugh:

If what Chris said does not apply, then I would ask if you replaced your oil pump when you did your engine overhaul?

Well, you might want to be a little more specific about the actual key position (i.e., OFF, ACC., RUN, START). The pump should come on when you enter the RUN position. I'm not familiar with the EFI key switch assemblies, but think about it....if you have no fuel pressure (pump not operating) when attempting to start your engine, how do you suppose an engine will run without fuel? Again, in most cases, I believe the pump should be operating when the key has entered the run position. Someone else please add to this.

Just got off another car site and there was this posy about a US Service guy getting f'd over by a performance shop in Arizona.......name of the business is AMP Performance. Wow! I could hardly believe the support given to the poor guy. The post were coming in so fast that you could not even keep up with the read!!! I pitty (NOT!!!) the guys that own that shop. As they say...."What come around goes around. Has anyone seen this yet?