240ZX

mmagnus, I had a similar problem with my 240Z (w/L28). I had converted the old points distributor to an electronic nissan unit, a single pick-up magnetic unit. Well, to make a long story short, the problem was the mechanical advance in the distributor. The engine was very difficult to start, if at all, and when I could get it to run and the rpm was above full advance it ran perfect. Anyway I'm going to a Mallory Unlite. The bummer is, it took a month to get the distributor from Mallory...Oh well!!!

Looking down from the top of the carbs, you turn the nut CCW to lean it and CW to richen it.

Hi, I'm pretty new to this forum, but I'm currently 95% done with completely going through my 1970 240Z....paint will come later after my bank account recovers a little. First you may want to ask yourself what you want out of it! A long time toy, daily driver, original restoration, fix-up to sell, or what? I my case I decided I wanted a very good handling, reliable weekend toy that I do not plan on selling. Before I actually started my project, I did months of research, went to Z car shows, and talked to ownwers about things they encountered during their restirations. I put together a rough estimate of what I planned to do and it was estimated at about $10K. After 15 months of working on my toy, I have now reached the $15K mark!!! There will always be things that come up you never planned for and a few items you will just have to have to make you Z what you hoped it would be. To give you an idea of what I've done to incure this cost; The car was stripped down to nothing but a bare chassis, with the exception of completely removing the interior (it is in pretty nice condition but I've put about $2K into the interior with new seats, harnesses, full dash cover, whiteface gauge overlay kit, and generally freshening up the inside). Everypart on the car has been stripped, prepped, painted, and has had the appropriate parts replaced. The suspension has urethane through out, coilover conversion with 1 1/2" shorter struts. I've upgraded the brakes (see Terry Oxindale's article on brake upgrades) to Terry's recommended street upgrade and have SS flex lines and metal master pads. I have an L28 N42 engine that's stock internally but has been upgraded with electronic ignition, IR alternator, electric fan and fuel pump to replace the mechanical units, and I had Rebello Racing breath on my original SU carbs.....headers and eye candy items as well. I installed a late model 5 speed and an R200 (3.90) differential and drive axles. Well, I could go on and on, but I don't want to bore you to death. Anyway, if you have good mechanical skills and do your homework, you will save a bundle. The biggest things to be aware of before starting are: Has the rust monster eaten too much of the car and is the chassis aligned. One last important point I want to mention. Without the internet, my project would have taken much longer and alot more $$$. Again do your homework before you get started. I hope this sheads a little light on the subject. 240ZX

Yes, a 5 speed (I'm using a 5 speed from a 82 ZX in my 1970 240Z) will bolt right into your early Z car. However, the shifter will be located 2.25" forward of the original 4 speed shifter. You can read articals on various ways to make this a functioning swap, but the bottom line is modifying the shifter to exit where the original one did! Now I'm no genious, but here is basically what I did. I purchased a length of 0.625 x 0.095 DOM steel tubing and used a tubing bender to put an almost 90 degree bend in it. Now knowing that the new lever must be back 2.25", I layed the original 5 speed lever on a flat surface so the main part of the shaft near the pivot was vertical. Now lay the 5/8 tube over the it so as to replicate the angle of the original lever, but positioned back 2.25". I drew this on paper, to scale, for a more precise calculation!!! Where the original lever and 5/8 tube intersect is where you will want to cut both pieces. The cut should run from one exstreme of the intersection to the other, providing maximum weld area. ( Roughly speaking, you will have an angled cut of about 45 degees on each piece). Before welding the two pieces together, double check it in the car for proper position. Note: Be sure to leave enough of the original shaft, above the pivot, to accomodate the boot on the transmission!!! Once you are satisfied with the location of the new lever, have it TIG welded together by an experienced welder. You might ask why I choose 5/8" tube for the lever!? Well, it just so happen that the shifter knob I purchased has a 5/8" lever hole. In the event you want to use an original shifter knob, weld a threaded peice to the end of the new lever. Of course you will still have to come up with a method to seal the trans tunnel opening. And yes you will have to open up the front side of the trans tunnel opening. I opened mine up approximately 2" and have plenty of clearance. With this lever modification, you have the luxury of making your shifter as long or short as you wish. I hope this information may help you out. One Man's Opinion, 240ZX