John Coffey

Are you sure the L28 was homologated for the 240Z? In the USA the L26 was homologated for the 260Z in late 1973 and the L28 was homologated for the 280Z in late 1974. There is nothing in the full 3023 document set that I have that allows the 2.6L or 2.8L in the 240Z and I have the revisions through the end of 1974. You can take a 240Z chassis and update it with the 260Z or 280Z appearance items per the regulations and turn a 240Z into a 260Z or 280Z per the rules. That was common in IMSA (Group4) here in the USA and the Frissell car is a perfect example.

The L28 was never homolgated for the 240Z chassis - at least from the FIA papers I have. You need to get your local rule books and the FIA document for the 240Z (S30) chassis which is FIA technical document number 3023.

Its probably not a structural issue. It actually takes a lot to mess up the structure on these cars enough to affect ride height. Buy hey, I'm just an Internet Bully. I guess he missed my title on this site (Crumudgeon). As I implied, you have more important things to worry about after a 10 year restoration then the ride height on a car that is not fully assembled, the suspension not settled, the bushings not torqued in place with the car on the ground, etc.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/

Swain has probably the best from a thermal perspective. Jet Hot 2000 is the next best. All others are just for show.

C'mon... the car has been apart for 10 years and is not fully assembled and you're worried about ride height?

http://www.racecar-engineering.com/news/nissan-lmp1-revealed/

The S30 chassis likes a wider front track then rear. It moves roll stiffness forward without increasing spring rate and lets you run the rear a little softer. I ran as wide as 1" front spacers on my race car. Never ran any rear spacers - but that was with 275 wide tires all around.

Magical stuff: http://www.shopwurthusa.com/wurthstorefront/Chemical-Product/Primers/Copper-Weld-Through-Primer/p/8868000016 http://www.shopwurthusa.com/wurthstorefront/Chemical-Product/Protective-Wax/Cavity-Wax/CAVITY-PROTECTION-SPRAY-LT-YEL-500-ML/p/0893081 http://www.shopwurthusa.com/wurthstorefront/Chemical-Product/Primers/Rust-Stop-Primer-400-Ml/p/08932102

It depends on how you drive the car. I ran a stock clutch and pressure plate with about 190 hp and it lasted for at least 25,000 miles of racing and autocross. A friend had a stock clutch behind 150 hp and it lasted 7,000 miles.

From your first post I didn't know you have the CF pressure plate. In my experience the Centerforce dual friction stuff sucks. I would just get a stock pressure plate and clutch from Nissan.

Buy a stock clutch disc from Nissan.

Coolant flow out of the back head is important. Here's an in-depth discussion of the L6 cooling system including cutaways of the head: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/

Pierre has something similar next to his shop with a L6 engine in it.

There should be no paint on your hardware. All of it should be yellow zinc. Soak it in Mineral Spirits or Carb cleaner.

I was referring to the Koni universal inserts (8610s, 8611s) but I do keep hearing of people who are able to purchase the old Special D Konis.

A full roll cage drops the value of a Z significantly. The car is no longer a street car.

Always rotate the engine in the correct direction to set cam timing.

Yes, they won the ProAm class in 2009.

Yup. I did a lot of the suspension and brake work on the car about 5 years ago. Don't know if he's still running my stuff. Here's a video of the race in 2009 after he put the stuff on his car. His co driver in the ProAm race is Ronnie Bremmer and that's who's driving in this video:

There are other shock options for the S30. Bilstein P30, KYB, Monroe, Koni,... Tokico had stopped manufacturing shocks for slow selling applications back in 2011. The pipeline for the S30, S130 and many, many other cars was drying up in 2012. I doubt they will start back up for old Datsuns. Talked with the head guy at Tokico USA in 2011 and they sold over 110 shocks for Fox body Mustang for every 1 shock they sold for ANY Datsun.

Yes, the 3012, 3013, 3015, 3016, and 3038 are the exact same shock with the only difference being the gland nut size and the spacer at the bottom. You guys might also look for the 3099 which is the MR2 rear shock. I has a little better rebound damping then the ones above. You will need to make your own spacers and drill out the "D" shaped hole in the OEM upper insulators. You can use the 3099 (or any of the above shocks) in any corner of the car with the proper length spacer underneath. There is also the Rabbit shock but you'll have to source your own gland nut and, again, make the correct length spacer. I forgot the Rabbit shock part number.

Yes. Most folks just pull the threaded button out of their 240Z diff and put it in their snap ring style diff. Instructions are on Hybridz.org.

Wow! No corner workers. No flags. WTF were the organizers thinking?

The splined length of the 240Z side axles is not long enough to engage the snap ring if a groove is cut. You need to add length to the splined section. I used to do that by using three 240Z side axles and two of the long side axle bolts that hold them in place: 1. Cut the splined section off one side axle and then cut that section in half creating two splined "buttons.". Bevel the ends of the buttons. The material is very hard and I used a water jet to make the cuts. 2. Put the bolt through the side axle from the flange to the splined end and add one button to the splined section. 3. Weld the threaded end of the bolt to the outside end of the button. 4. Put the assembly in an old R180 diff and push it all the way down so the splines line up on the button and the axle. 5. Weld the bolt head to the center of the axle flange. This assembly is strong enough to hold the axle in place. The only caveat is lowered 510s which tend to pull the side axle out of a snap ring R180. I probably made three dozen pairs of these for people over the years. I don't make them now.