Ben

Very tight you say? From memory I'm not sure how they plan on installing the exhaust manifolds without cutting out the innder guards.... It's a 90 deg V8 with very wide heads! I think that the 4.0L Soarer/LS400 engine fits much better (is that a 90 deg engine?)

Slightly off topic. Gav - The person who imported my dads 510 2-door (one of 3) has another container-load of cars & parts en-route from the USA as we speak (actually, I suspect that the boat isn't too far away from Australia). If you are after one, I can put you in touch with him. They are being imported for sale after all. I've seen a couple of 510 (Bluebird) coupes, but no 2-door sedans. http://www.versadev.com/ben/birdwood2001/index_birdwood2001.html Except when I was in the USA when I went to a 510 dyno day.... And now back on topic.... George, I can relate to that, I mean really relate:love: But I haven't sold any of my cars!

I have spent a fair portion of every pay packet I've earnt on my Z since I've had it (March 1996). Dad convinced me to buy it as 'it would be fun to work on'. He's a bad influence, if I look into his backyard, I see 2x240Z's being restored, a 1200 ute, a Fairlady 1500 Roadster and his 510 4-door (which sees as much track time as he can afford). My DR30 & MR30 Skylines are out the front, my sisters' Pulsar GTiR is in the driveway too, there's also a 510 2-door import in storage interstate.... And one of my friends could rock up in an R31 Skyline, a brand new Navara, an R32 GTR, or a 260Z coupe (to name a few of the Nissans in his family). If I'm not working on my Z is beacause I need to do something on my other cars, or I'm trying to save up for a 350Z convertible.... My girlfriend of 4.5 years is tolerant, but she wants me to hurry up so we can do a car for her! (She determined not to do a Nissan - "you've got too many of them already" - HAH! )

But just to clarify... Gav, you are an idiot But a lucky idiot all the same!

The factory wheel & gear knob are synthetic. I don't know the material used, but it's not wood.

George - have a look-see inside a good uni & you'll see that between the cups & the shafts there are lots of cylindrical pieces of steel - needle roller-bearings. Without grease they will get wet & corrode. Turning into iron-oxide dust in time....

How long is a piece of string? But seriously, I really don't know, probably every 40,000km/s - when you change the diff oil.... You do change the diff oil don't you? :classic:

Indeed - every uni that I've replaced has been full of dust - dust that used to be needle rollers..... Remove the other 1/2 shaft & the tailshaft & inspect the whole lot. On 2nd thought - replace them all & get the tailshaft balanced, install a loop while you're at it. Generally speaking, the splined section of the 1/2 shafts will twist before the units will break (seen it).

If it has a grease-nipple fitting (it look like it has) then it's an aftermarket uni. Some aftermarket uni's are weaker than the factory ones. Try CBC for a replacement & let them know how tough it needs to be!

Well you certainly lunched that one! Do the stampings show a brand name? The long & short of uni removal is lots of lubricant & elbow-grease.

Thank you Steve, Now for the specifics on those ADR's.... 1 - reversing lamps (1/1/72) 2 - Door latches & hinges (1/1/71) 3 - Seat anchorages (1/1/71) 4A - Seat belts - front & rear seats (1/1/74) 5A - Seat belt anchorage points - front (1/1/69) 6 - Direction turn signal lamps (1/1/73) 7 - Hydraulic brake hoses (1/1/70) 10B - Steering columns (1/1/73) 11 - Internal sun visors (1/1/72) 12 - Glare reduction in field of view (1/1/73) 14 - Rear vision mirrors (1/1/72) 15 - Demisting of windscreens (1/1/71) 16 - Windscreen wipers & washers (1/1/73) 18 - Location & visibility of instruments (1/1/73) 20 - Safety rims (1/7/70) 21 - Instrument panels (1/1/73) 22 - Head restraints (1/1/72) 23 - New pneumatic passenger car tyres (1/1/74) 24 - Tyre selection (1/1/73) 25 - Anti-theft locks (1/1/72 (yeah, right ) 27 - Vehicle engine emission control (1/1/74) 28 - Motor vehicle noise (1/1/74) So, what does this mean (specifically in relation to ADR 27)? "These vehicles can be fitted with pre-emission or emission engines. If an emission engine is fitted, all emission control equipment (eg EGR system) originally fitted to the engine must be retained and operational. Any engine fitted to the vehicle must retain the original equipment carburettor & induction system, camshaft and air cleaner for the year of manufacture of that engine." As opposed to the 240Z which is ADR26 "These vehicles may be fitted with alternative carburettors, camshafts or other engine modifications, provided that an emissions test is conducted on the vehicle and the Carbon Monoxide output does not exceed 4.5% at the manufacturers recommended engine idle speed, as specified in ADR26." If you have an earlier Z (pre '72) there are no emissions requirements. Well, that didn't answer the question, did it?

Hey George, Are you aware of the maintenance history/condition of you 1/2 shafts (and all driveline uni's)? My dad lunched a uni on the racetrack in his 1600 a few months back - but it was the only remaining unit from new.... So he wasn't too upset. If you haven't checked your uni's I'd be replacing them all & taking it from there. I was putting 250HP thru a stock setup for a few years with no hassles. (And there's more of that to come) But, if they were fresh - what brand were they? Then again, having just looked at your gallery, a CV upgrade may not be such a bad idea....

FYI - my Australian-delivered car is HS30-103353 & was complianced 29 years & 11 months ago....

Ok, here's the deal... 240Z - HS30 series (HLS30 for LHD), ther are many suffixes to indicate variants. The Australian 240Z's are basically Euro-spec, which is very similar to the Japanese domestic 240Z-L. 260Z - RS30 (and the L for LHD). The R indicates an L26 powerplant. 260Z 2+2 - GRS30. The G indicates a 2+2 body. 280Z - US only, HS30 (why? - who knows). Yes the 'H' indicates a 2.8L powerplant in this case, just to make things awkward. Note that due to the fact that the fitment of the L28 was a US-only thing, a 75-78 RS30 is the equivalent Australian model. Personally I see no benefits to importing a 280Z and doing a stack of conversion work (and having those lovely 5-mph bumpers), when a local 260Z is essentially the same thing, but already RHD :classic: 280ZX - S130 280ZX 2+2 - GS130 (I think, but not 100% sure) In Australia, I believe that the 260Z coupe is the rarest model. But the 260Z 2+2 is fading fast, along with the 280ZX's, as no-one is restoring them It wouldn't surprise me if the 240Z becomes the most common model in the next few years....

Threse days: Minutes, if it hits the advertisment stage at all. I think in Adelaide, there is a waiting list.... Lucky I got my car in '96 :classic:

The '74 car would have to comply with the base ADR 27 rules. I'll get specifics posted when I get home tonight.

Hi Mak, A carburettor backfire is lean, not rich. The auto possibly needs a service. But first, is the vacuum modulator hooked up? Check your cam & distributor timing - ask for details on how to this if you don't know/can't find out. I expect that the oil guage isn't hooked up either - does it read max with the ignition on, but the engine off?

I've never been a fan of the mechanical fuel pumps used on the L Series motors. It seems every single one of them I've come across leaks fuel or oil (or both) .... I think it was about 2 months after I bought my 240Z that I fitted a Carter low-pressure electric pump to the car. (Which is now the priming pump for the EFI system) All that aside, check the lines & filter for blockages, also - is the stock heat shield installed?

For all you wannabe Watanabe owners.... Go here to drool: http://www.rs-watanabe.co.jp/ :classic: :classic: :classic:

I can agree that the micro-brewed west-coast beers are quite nice! I still have a couple of Deschutes Mirror-Pond Pale Ales in the fridge from my last trip to Oregon, and an Anchor-Steam or two! Come to think of it, I bought a different beer everytime I went out to a restaurant or the market for groceries.....

Methinks it would be viscous.... The viscous units tend to be a little 'softer' in operation. And that has 'Infiniti' all over it. The could also be the short R200....

I punted my hire-car around the Tualatin curves pretty hard when I was in Portland... But seriously, there are a lot of Datsun freaks in that state, and I'm sure a large % of them visit the track. Perhaps have a look on Datsuns.com, there might be some info there.

The Fairlady Z badges were bought from Nissan Motorsports USA. But I believe that they are now NLA. Check with them direct to be certain.

Aussie '73 - plastic. As are all the other badges, except the automatic & 'C' pillar badges. But I have a set of "Fairlady Z" badges on my car (metal). I Think I'll get some "432" stickers made up too....:classic: :classic: A semi-gloss black bonnet (hood) is also on the cards, along with some 432 flares (they'll be the last item fitted). It's the closest I'm gonna get to owning the real thing:cry:

SPS in Melbourne(?) do custom pistons. Sorry I don't have any more details. But there's nothing wrong with Wiseco....