Ben

The 'accepted' diff installation was 260Z manual coupes had the R200 along with all 2+2's. But I've seen auto's with & manuals without, so who knows. Brit, The R180 uses alloy side plates for the output shafts, it is also noticeably taller than it is wide. Have a bit of a search & you should find photos' of each.

180mm vs 200mm ring gear 2-pinion vs 4-pinion Reasonably tough vs nearly unbreakable. The R200 was introduced with the 260Z (1974). It was used (in the same housing) through to 1989 in various ratios & LSD types. In the US the 300 Turbo's had an clutch-type LSD & the SE Turbo had a viscous LSD. You want the former (clutch type) + mounting hardware from a donor 260/280Z to suit. You should find plenty of info on fitting an R200 via the search feature on this site, zdriver.com, hybridz.org & zhome.com.

Alan, you bring up a very valid point. Even here in Australia, where if you drive an S30 Z you get complimented by everyone you meet (some who had one, some who wished they did) the name Datsun can conjur up some very nasty thoughts; Cedric - great looks 240/260/280/300C - likewise 120Y (B210) - 120 WHY? 200B (810) - the 180B (610) with 20 more problems.... The 'local' early Bluebird (910) - did someone say rust & bad looks? Unfortunately that stigma associated with some of the less successful Datsuns is a problem. At the same time, everyone here knows someone who had a 120Y or 180B & although they hated it at the time, it was the most reliable & somehow satisfying car they've had. For some reason, most people seem to miss the crappy old Datsuns they once owned...:surprised My vote is also with the Sunbeam Tiger. There were several competing in the Classic Adelaide last month - yum PS Please note that the opinions expressed above on 'old Datsuns' are not that of the author, who has friends with very fine examples of both the 120Y & 910 series.

4 grams - I wish!!! I've just fited new OEM 1st OS pistons (flat-tops) to the original L24 that belongs in my '73 & there was 6 grams between the lightest & heaviest _rod_. I ended up weighing all parts & then matching up to get the best balance (some bolts were 8-grams, others were 9-grams). Then I removed material from the rod only. Instead of removing all flashing & then balancing, I just removed the flashing as balancing. Afterall, this was simply an excercise in improvement, not necessarily precision.... The final balance was within 1-gram, not bad for a home effort! (150-grit belt sander & 450-grit wet-n-dry). Apparently the Datsun stuff was well balanced from the factory. So consider the tolerances on less advanced engines...

Rather than say what madels were Japan only, I'll say that the Z31 300ZX 2by2 NA & Turbo were the only Australian delivered models.... There are a few of the 200Z(X)®'s kicking around, but not many. I've never seen a 300ZR on the road here in Aus. Also, we only got the Z32 300ZX 2by2 NA, all the TT's 2-seaters & convertibles are imports.

Although not nearly appreciated enough in Europe, the 510 is THE cult car in Australia. But I don't think that many Aussie's realise how successful they were in the US & Japan on the track/dirt. We get to see a lot of the magnificent machinery that the Japanese manufacturers produce, but only on the 2nd-hand market. Part of this is due to the mechanical robustness that is required for a car to be successful in Australia. Nissan spent millions toughening up the R31 Skyline & developing a whole new powerplant to make is suitable for Australian conditions. And when things started going downhill in the early '90's (they pulled out of local manufacture & went to 100% imported) they couldn't really justify doing the same thing with the R32 platform. The other issue is the fact that the Australian market is built on low-revving V8's & sixes that have to have a large towing capacity. But I digress, & this is a very interesting thread.

What he said :classic: There is also the 200ZX & 200ZR, the former being VG20E(T) powered & the latter being RB20DET powered (was there an NA 200ZR?) I believe that the 200ZR was also limited run car, but the 200ZX was more common than the 300ZX

If everything measures up ok, there is no real benefit to spending the $$$ for new slugs, except for the fact that you can say that they are new. I bought my un-touched L28E engine with 220,000 km on the clock, tore it down, had it honed & put fresh 'consumables' through it (rings bearings, gallery plugs etc). It's done 300,000 km's now and 70,000 of them have been with the T3 forcing things through a little harder than stock... This engine is a N42 combo (8.39:1 compression) running 6psi boost & producing ~220BHP. It is fed good fuel (98RON), synthetic oil (Mobil 1 every 5,000km), Genuine coolant & clean air (Finer filter) & I expect it to last a long time yet. Long live stock pistons

The specs are the same across the board. Frank Honsowetz (How to Modify Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine - Nissan # 9996-M8012) states that as a rule of thumb use 0.005" per inch of bore on #1 compression ring & 0.004" per inch on #2 compression. Oil is not critical - 0.010"-0.040" is ok. This gives most engines (avg 3.4" bore) 0.017" on #1 & 0.014" on #2. Bearing in mind that 0.001" bore taper will change the ring gap by 0.003" through its travel. Incidentally, this is an easy way to roughly measure the bore taper - measure the gap @ TDC & BDC & div by 3. You should also get a copy of the Tom Monroe 'How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine' (HP Books) (Nissan #99996-M8013)

Originally posted on zdriver.com just a few minutes ago (sorry Mike:tapemouth).... I have just returned home from my monthy 'Nissan SVD owners Club' meeting (http://www.svd.asn.au), and it appears that there have been a number of enquires from owners of Prince Skylines, 260Z's, 1200's etc. regarding joining the club. The documented 'cut-off date' for eligibility for membership was previously 1982 (in order to allow the entry of early R30 Skylines, like mine). However it has been unanimously decided (by an official vote), that the club will accept membership applications from owners of any 'Special Interest' Prince, Datsun or Nissan car. Cars must be well presented, especially if they are to be displayed at shows, or used in competition events.The club is CAMS affiliated, with approximately 60 financial members and events are held on a regular basis. There is also a strict focus on professionalism at all times. More more infomation, post on this thread, send a private message or e-mail me (if you know my address). I hope to see some of you at the next members meeting (details on the web site)!!!

Let me clarify what I meant with the'10psi' comment... The ceramic-turbine T3 should be able to run at ~15psi all day with no problems. But my point is that the efficiency of the turbo would be quite poor at this pressure ratio. A larger compressor & turbine modifications should see the discharge temperature & rpms lower for the same flow rate/pressure ratio. I have seen many examples of a better turbo producing more power at a lower pressure ratio. Especially when we are talking about stock units working real hard to maintain the boost desired.

The rear demister was a factory option. All cars have the wiring & all consoles have the boss for the switch.

You won't know if the current diff is worth rebuilding util you remove the rear cover. If it's just bearings then it can be fixed, but if it's worn through the hardening on the gears then it's another story. If you can take photo's of it (assuming that your problem is the diff....) & post them a better assessment can be made. Based on your description, I wouldn't trust the current diff down main Nth Rd in peak hour... Let me tell a story.... :classic: My '82 MR30 Skyline runs a L28ET engine, 6psi boost ~220HP. The gearbox (at the time) was a beefed-up 3N71B (factory Auto - soon to be re-fitted, along with the engine, into my 240Z for a while...). Diff was the stock, open, 3.90:1 R180. I'd run this combo for ~18 months, no issues at all. No burnouts, but wheelspin would occur on full-throttle shifts. It's around 35 deg C, summer, mid afternoon.... I was gently accelerating from a standstill @ Days Road/South road (heading North). I'd barely got the engine to 1500rpm (car was just moving) and there was a little 'crack' & I lost all drive. Inspection revealed that the tailshaft was spinning, but the diff wasn't functioning - at all.... After removing the diff, it was apparent that there was a tooth missing from one of the spider gears (must've broken off before I bought the car, as it wasn't in the bottom of the diff). I'd loaded the diff up at this point & then split both spiders into many pieces, taking chunks from the carrier & crownwheel. The diff was completely lunched. No burnout, no 'bang'..... The moral to this story - if it's gonna let go, it'll do it a the time you least expect it, and in the most inconvenient place.

I wouldn't run the stock turbo above 10psi. Get a T4 compressor & back-cut the turbine if you want more flow. 4-500HP is very doable, contact Jim-Wolf (California) or Malvern Racing (Virginia)for some workshop info.

It looks good except that hit refers to the square-top carburettors & late emmisions system. All Australian 240Z's had round tops & PCV only (no smog-pump, throttle dampers etc).

If you want someone to have a look at your diff (if you have to take it out). Contact Dave Meaker @ Mitsi-Bits (Lonsdale). I've known him for many years via the Club-Car circuit & he's rebuilt both my R200 LSD's (and plenty of H190's, Supra diffs, Mazda diffs etc). Years ago he worked for Bill Hanson. Tell him I sent you.

try http://www.zzxdatsun.com

A brief one - I'm running late! 4-cylinder (standard block height) L13 L16 L18 tall block L20B super tall block LZ22 LZ24 6-cyl (standard height) L20A L24 L26 L28 tall block LD28 (and some other diesels too, I think) bring on the scones :classic:

Yet another Adelaide member. It appears we're everywhere... Do I need to explain my nick? My avatar is my car (well it's progressed a bit further since then, but not much). I know, lame, but I have to concentrate on fixing my Zed, not making up a fancy nick!

Alan T is right, The Euro & Aussie cars were pretty much HS30-L's. optional fog lights, front spoiler & demister, standard fitment was 5-speed, AM/FM radio (optional 8-track), carpet etc. Nissan Australia referred to the 240Z as the 'Datsun 240Z Sports' And in regard to the 2000GT/Z432 thread, I've already done some investigating re: locating one in Aus & it doesn't look too good. If I had a spare $130K AUD, I could buy a restored Z432 (not 'R') from one of many in dealerships in Japan. See http://www.rockyauto.co.jp for some fine examples. Some of the interesting mods on the 432-R are the perspex windows & full magnesium wheels, not to mention the extra ground clearance (about 20mm I think). I don't care if it isn't as fast as an L28 S30, I still want one! One thing we are just about to take delivery of is a 1965 Fairlady 1500 Roadster (only 125 were originally sold in the country). It's on a truck from Sydney as we speak...