Ben

The fog lights are NLA - I tried to buy some a few years back. They are listed in the standard HS30 parts fiche/book, as is the S20 oil cooler (but no other S20 parts...) Steve, the distributor setup is custom. Series 2 910 (bluebird) Bosch housing, Holden greasy-6 button & cap, fabricated Hall-Effect sensor mounting & chopper-wheel installation. Of course, it is locked up too. This is all a proven Haltech E6A setup that had done over 120,000km (including use on the original 2.4L turbo). The gearbox is attached to an RB25DE - for my dad's 240Z (the white one in the background). I do have an FJ box though - in my DR30 of course! My dad has one too - along with the FJ20E in his 1600! You may notice that the intercooler plumbing looks very similar in the old & new setup shots - conveniently, very little modification was required to make it suit completely different intake & exhaust systems.... My indicator seals were buggered too - even with 2x '73 240Z's we didn't have a 'good' pair to use :disappoin The indicator lenses & seals were not offered as spares - only the whole assembly. When I priced one in 1996 it was over $300AUD, they are NLA now.

Piece of cake, if it's clean, legal & your record is good for the last few years. There are already plenty of RB Zeds in the country. My car is currently on laid-up insurance with Shannons as L28ET, fully restored (in-progress), agreed value $15k. It will be $30k when finished, and they have no problem with that.

Gee, What are the 2 sets of Chassis/Engine numbers? My car is was ADR'd in Aug '73, orange, auto. HS30-103353 L24 179014 It's in MPH (as were all aussie 240Z's) but none of the 610's were MPH (which were relaesed in '72 from memory). Some of the 510's had dual markings on the speedos (factory?).

The problem with Compomotive ML's & the Performance Superlites is that they only go up to 15" dia. (which is fine for a Z). But if you want larger, Panasports are avavilable in 16" as are the RS-F8's.

Hi Leeroy, There are no Panasport dealers in Australia, but you can still buy them from MSA - freight will be a bit of a killer.... Also, if you want RS-Watanabe F8's (the original 8-spoke racing rim) they will set you back around $600AUD each + $600AUD for freight from Japan. Do a search on 'Watanabe' to get info from older threads on the topic. The closest local equivalent is the Performance Superlite - but they are 10 spoke (I have a set of 15x7's Superlites on my car).

Hi Steve - yes my car is a late '73; VIN HS30-103353. ADR date 08/73. It had the indicators above the bumpers, but I intend to use orange globes in the lower assembly & use parkers internal to the H4's that I have. The reason for this is two-fold (it was originally only 1). 1) One of my lenses is cracked & they are NLA 2) My US-spec bumper doesn't have holes in the top for the mounting of any lights (just holes on the bottom for the fog lamps. You can see the E2 sticker on the strut tower in http://www.zclub.net/postnuke/modules.php?set_albumName=uploaded&id=afl&op=modload&name=Gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php. Photo's 4-8 are of my car.

14.7psi ~ 29 inHg ~ 1 bar ~ 1 atmosphere

FYI the following is a brief explanation of MON vs RON: " The motor octane rating, referred to as MON (motor octane number), is the best rating to use when selecting fuel for your race or high compression engine. When testing MON, the fuel is heated to 300° F and the intake air is heated to 100° F. The test engine is a single cylinder 4 cycle engine that is run at 900 rpm. Ignition timing is varied with compression ratio. Engine load is varied during test. Research Octane Rating Known as RON (research octane rating). Tested at 600 rpm with a fixed timing of 13° BTDC. The fuel temp is not controlled at all and the intake air temp is varied with barometric pressure. This is done to covert everything to a SAE standard day, which is 60° F, 0% Humidity, and 29.92 inches barometric pressure. The RON should not be used when selecting fuel for a race or high performance engine. The RON will always be higher than the MON. " Note that this was taken from a US site. In Australia & Japan the only rating used is RON. In Japan the high-perf fuel is 100 RON, in Australian it's 98 RON, so generally the cars are slightly de-tuned to run on our fuel. However there is talk of making 110 RON unleaded fuel available at the pumps in Australia.

I've found that in Australia, the 'performance' L engines (ie stock 240Z L24, or other modified engines) only run 'right' on Premium Unleaded (98 RON). I also run a stock L20B on LRP (lead-replacement) which is 95(?)RON. My main problem is that all my cars are turbocharged (except the L20B) so I'm stuck with the expensive stuff.... BTW the 98RON stuff is over $1.10AUD per litre currently - that's $3USD per gallon!

Just to throw another spanner in the works, I believe that the taped off wires in the front harness are the fog lamp wiring, not indicator wiring.... 1974 also saw the introduction of side markers (or the equivalent) in the ADR's too.

I was expecting similar when I joined. Actually, back then I didn't see much activitty from Aussies at all. But that was before broadband internet was 'widely' available. Now I'm astounded at how many people there are on this list from Adelaide, let alone Australia! And everyones cars are more complete than mine....

Steve, you were close - it's a Holden TB Ben P; The gallery is good, & as big as you like. The bigger the better - more details will be clear

Koni Special-D inserts are PN's 86-1811 & 86-1812 They run ~$400 per pair. You can also get KYB inserts for about 1/2 that price for non-adjustable (still very high quality ride) & around $700 each for motorsport models (Super-Special Street).

Hi Alan, AFAIK, the kit on my car was made by 'Creations'. But I'll be damned if they didn't just rip-off the Janspeed design.... For the EFI cars that were modified here, the 2 kits used were from HKS & SK's. The kits basically emulated the L20AET/L28ET design, but used a J-pipe on the stock manifold, a Mitsubishi (?) turbo & an ignition retard module. I've got a modifed T3 on mine + intercooling + aftermarket EFI, so it's a little more 'refined'. (I have photo's of the J-pipe SOMEWHERE, but I can't find it) Bpaccaud, what's the chance of taking some digital photo's of the car & posting them? That would help us to inform you about the value of the car.

The turbo kit that I bought for my 240Z was a copy of the Janspeed kit. I modified the intake section & made a proper long-runner & plenum setup for multipoint EFI. (At first we just put injectors in the original setup, but there was just no volume....). At the end of the day, it ran very well, but with draw-through & intercooling the throttle response was a bit soggy. And the O-trim TO4 was far too large....

I s'pose that 'technically' Adelaide in in the eatern 1/2 of Australia. So I'll vote 'East'. Not that I wan't to be associated with any Victorians.... ROFL

ok so I didn't look at it closely....

I's a little rough around the edges, but I've seen cars of similar condition go for 2-3M yen (which is 17-25K USD).... It would fetch that price in Japan, easy. I would pay $25K AUD for a restored car w/stroker & Jap. domestic go-fast bits, no problems.

I'd say that it'd be a shade over 120HP with twin carbs or the EFI & ~110 for the single carb version. BUT, I don't have any SDS books handy, so I can't be sure. It's no beast anyway :classic:

The 'regular' 2.0L is just an 'L' block with a (very) small bore & stroke. Externally identical to the other 6-cylinder engines of the same family. The S20 on the other hand - twin-cam, triple mikuni's, factory extractors - I wish someone would mistake one for an L20 & sell it to me cheap.... :love:

I do believe that I'll hang out for the 350Z roadster/convertible. There were official photos in the Saturday paper & I must say it looks yum! $80kAUD is a little bit painful though....

I believe that they came on the Patrol - I have yet to see one. BUT, no 280ZX's I've seen have had them, so I've assumed that they were used at a later date. The Diesel Patrol has a cast iron head, not alloy (so the answer is no). There are a few people who have made stroker turbo's (cause they can), and I'm working (very slowly) on a stroker twin-turbo (which has also been done, but not by many). Many $$$ are required, but you get that! I'm using an F54 block, P90 head, L24 or L20A rods (haven't decided yet), 2xT28's, ported inlet manifold & a custom external wastegate exhaust manifold. I'm not looking forward to plumbing it all up..... Currently the car is getting my other L28 turbo for a while (a year or two). But it's all temporarily on-hold (for a month or so) as I have to recondition my FJ20ET as it's got a leakdown problem in #4 (coolant usage).

Apparently my local dealer was fitting aftermarket kits to R30 Skylines, 280ZX's & S12 Gazelles (Silivas). They used a J-pipe, (one of which, I am using on my L28T) an aftermarket ignition retard module & modifications to the EFI to supply some more fuel to the system. Boost was apparently ~5psi. Pretty primative, but it certainly gave the cars a heck of a lot more mumbo! They eventually had to stop as the authorities were a little concerned about the number of cars that were not fully ADR'd coming from the dealer... If you have an atmo. P90 & F54 combo, then it would most likely have flat-top pistons in it. Theoretically this gives you a CR of 8.52:1. If you simply fit 'N42' pistons (dished) that will lower your CR to 7.38:1. How much boost did you want to run again? :classic: However, I'd be careful using stock pistons as they may not like the amount of cylinder pressure that a CR of 7.38:1 would allow you to apply. I'm using a stock NA inlet manifold on my current engine, but my stroker twin-turbo has a ported import manifold with a larger plenum on it. I'm using a VG30ET T3 turbo (same as VL) with a T4 compressor & enlarged turbine outlet, and that's great for 200-300HP. I'd go for a BB unit from an RB25DET if I was building a new motor. That should be big enough for starters. An ECU will set you back ~$2k for a complete setup. But it's worth every cent. The stock gearbox will cope fine - just don't abuse it. If you need more strength, then an RB 'C' series can be adapted to fit, or you can get a Hollinger gearset for the original box... Personally I've found that the FJ boxes (although they are theoretically 90% the same as the L boxes) tend to be a little more 'crunchy' on fast changes. You just have to learn to shift with a little care! With 200kW of power, I'm sure a gentle gearchange won't be too hard to cope with....

Only a mental picture from my dealer yesterday here.... :classic: