SteveJ

Look at the jpg or pdf at https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/. It shows a green/yellow for the hazard and green for the turn signals respectively coming off the fuse box. I know I captured the relative positions of the fuse box in my diagram.

The old engine smoked like a 3 pack/day habit. The new engine is freshly rebuilt, has flat top pistons, and an N47 Maxima head. That's a nice combo. I am going to find out if there is a build sheet on it, too. My friend who led the swap thinks it has an interesting cam, too. As I was putting on the valve cover, I was stunned by the valvetrain. You could eat off it...if you didn't mind synthetic oil in your food.

No, but it was the only way to get it to reach. I don't plan on keeping it, either.

Today was engine swap day. Three very good and generous friends came over and made the day happen. I did more of tool fetching and parts running than I did turning wrenches. By the time we were done, the engine came to life. That was such a good feeling.

For the turn signal switch, I have plenty of photos on my blog, along with a write-up.

Sorry. I haven't needed to open up the headlight switch, so I couldn't tell you.

If you need a replacement, let me know. I probably have one.

I believe I bought an assortment like this: http://www.autozone.com/external-engine/oil-drain-plug-gasket/needa-parts-oil-drain-plug-gasket/257222_0_0 I'll be working on the car over the next few days. I'll see if I can tell which type I used.

Get a 3 ohm coil and you won't need a ballast resistor.

Now it rings a bell. You'll probably need a 1/2" gasket. I seem to recall that is the size I needed. The extra 0.52 mm clearance is needed to get past the threads easily.

It's been 15+ years since I worried about the wires on the connector. The wire colors in the dash harness, body harness and engine harness are what you need to concern yourself with for colors. Those are the ones listed in the FSM.

Clarify what you mean. Where exactly is the black wire? There is a White/Red wire in the dash harness taking 12 VDC+ to the combo switch. The headlights contact in the combo switch will connect to a Red wire in the dash harness that goes to the fuse box. The black wire in the dash harness is the ground for the headlight switch and the horn.

It's actually been explained many times: And it's documented completely in the FSM in the BE section with the wiring diagram.

Yeah, I knew you were coordinating things for ZCOT for the Autorama. I wanted to make sure Dave made your acquaintance most of all.

So, Dave @grishtxu, are you going to get possession of the car in time to take it to the Dallas Autorama?

Jai, Also consider getting a gasket for the drain plug if you drain the tank that way. I didn't replace it when I drained your tank previously because I didn't have one handy. Perhaps someone on this thread can tell you the right size for the gasket, since I can't remember for the life of me.

It's a simple mistake to misread a diagram. It's dumb to cut wires.

You might try this: https://www.nissanusa.com/about/corporate-info.

We replaced the connectors in 2015, though a crimp could have worked loose.

Pin 18 goes to the negative on the coil and ignition module. It also branches off to a resistor to provide a signal for the tachometer. I don't have the time to dig through all of the FSM, but it is probably a trigger for the ECU to indicate engine speed.

I am not a fuel injection expert, nor do I play one on TV. If you haven't already, download the 79 wiring diagram from here: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm It appears that the yellow wire is connected to the blue wire when both coils are energized at Fuel Pump Relay (2). The yellow wire goes down to the connector that you hacked the yellow wire off and comes out as a green wire. That green wire goes into pin 26 on the ECU. It also goes out to the cold start valve and thermotine switch. From there, you need to consult the EF section of the 79 FSM.

I'd hit it.

Interesting. I wasn't thinking about the neutral was floated. I'm so used to the neutral being bonded to the ground in low voltage applications I work with. Of course, shipboard power is usually done in the fashion you described.

I was looking at the oil pressure sensors for the 78. Since they are designed to work with a fuel pump relay, I figured I would try one out.