Yarb

After reading your post SteveJ, I beginning to think that special brackets are needed for the 78 280 conversion.

I’m retrofitting my 280. I understand there are rubber insulators at certain mounting points.

Curious to hear how they fit. Did you buy Harrington’s brackets with the bumpers?

If you haven’t already, check out the Mishimoto stuff. Glad it worked for you. Hard to find any heavy hose thats not steel braid.

Try Mishimoto 1/2” PCV/CCV hose. It’s a tight fit but worked on my 78.

I just pulled a set off of a 83zx 2+2 which I’m pretty sure are the same used on the turbo. No play in the rotation on the axle collar on each end. They are on my bench so really hard to tell on flexing it back and forth for movement. These have 140k miles. Picked it up to part it out.

Have you tried cracking the line loose at the junction block to see if you have pressure there? Either way you’ll find out if it’s the line or the block.

Try giving Power brake exchange a call in San Jose. Ask if they have the parts in stock to rebuild your unit. I’ve used them in the past. Good People and easy to work with. Power Brake Exchange, Inc. - San Jose, Ca. Phone: (408) 292-1305 Fax: (408) 294-6817

Moog replacement parts are not fully greased. Apply grease until you see it weeping from the small nub on the boot. The boot will expand and it’s easy to see.

Looks like the same distributor as my Z. 1/78.

Thanks, Trying to buy a little at a time in preparation for a respray

What would you say percentage wise is it between OE and the aftermarket products? Mainly the windshield and hatch seals.

I recently purchased a 79 280zx booster from Power brake exchange. I’m in the early stages of the installation. The booster does fit without modifications at the firewall. Leaves just enough room for the clutch master. I’m using the same 15/16 master cylinder as well. Working on other areas of the car right now and have not gone any further with the install.

Trying to chime in here on the location of the FP relay. I have a 78 280 manufacture date 1/78. By chance did you happen to check behind the passenger seat. It’s mounted to the rear of the seat support with the harness running over to a grommet above the pump assembly. Worth taking a look.

That included his machine work?

I have the LD crank and N42 block. What’s a ball park figure for Rebello’s parts and labor?

Try reaching out to @zclocks on the forum. He would be the expert in that.

Cliff can you confirm the washer orientation on the TC rods?

Maybe some of the other members can chime in to clarify.

Awesome, Keep up the good work...

Is it me or are You’re strut rod washers inside out?

Looks Great....

Sent some pics to The supplier. I wonder if the frame rails differed between model years. Also if you look at the other side of the frame rail next to the strut rod you'll see it's flat all the way up to the firewall area where you could weld it if you moved the rail forward.

I think If you look at your forward frame rail you will see that the steel shrinks in size a bit and turns towards the strut rod bushing. If my piece is cut correctly that’s as far as it goes where it can be welded to a flat surface. I agree I should not have to notch anything. Where it’s marked is the base of the origin rail causing it to teeter totter for and aft. Also, I know you probably can’t see it from the pic but if I move it either direction the current notch will ride up on another spot weld.