Yarb

Has anyone measured the current draw on this rebuilt starter to determine if it’s overloading the circuit? I had mentioned in an earlier post that I had the same issue. I mentioned the resolution without adding a relay into the mix. I struggled with this for over a week and found that starter itself was the issue even though I could crank the car with my remote starter. As Zed mentioned that the harness is old and breaks down over time. My solution was the later model gear reduction starter. After the issue was resolved I took the original rebuilt starter to a alt./starter rebuild shop that confirmed it was pulling way to much current/amperage.

I had a Deco Remy from RO defective right out of the box. Why not try the gear reduction later model style.

@HusseinHolland Without having to dig back in previous posts can you elaborate on the VQ35DE conversion? thanks Friend

@Av8ferg sent his off and had it rebuilt.

Talk to me about the Silicone valve cover gasket. Interested to know why you would not go back to the factory gasket which is reusable. Thanks for your time…john

@Terrapin Z might have a cover.

Purple power degreaser 100% strength works great on cleaning the trans

How about that!!! Finally a contribution to the forum that has not been mentioned. @Captain Obvioushad a great deal to do with digging me out of that rabbit hole. Glad you got her fixed!!!

@Mark MarasDid you mean valve seals earlier in your post? I think that’s what you were referencing. Try some Kano Kroil penetrant and MAF gas. A lot easier to work with it out of the car.

I made a makeshift rack and submerged the hoses in boiling water. They softened up and came off somewhat easier?

Agreed, find a used hub, I’m sure you can find one here on this site. Drive new races in it and go….

I wouldn’t think that would be an issue.

I haven’t looked way back in thread is this an auto or manual car?

Ok, I’m getting a little confused on whose thread this is and are we working on a 240 or 280? The information I’ve given is related to a 1978 280z.

Have you had a chance to get it up in the air?

Towards the intake

Here’s what happened in my situation. I was having the same issue’s similar to what you’re experiencing. Without getting into great detail. I changed out the booster check valve in the midst of going down the rabbit hole. Come to find out I had installed the new check valve backwards. There is an arrow on the valve. I had it pointing in the wrong direction where I was not getting any assist from the booster.

Behind the passenger seat where the deck wall meets the floor board. The relay is mounted on the back of the seat rail support as well. Pull the carpet up you will see the harness.

@av8ferg might have parts I don’t need according to @stevej. My original order is in transit. Bargain time/trading material😂😂😂

@SteveJThanks brother, just what I need for my project. Should have everything in a couple of days.

You’re probably don’t have a fuel pressure gauge installed after the filter to monitor pressure . I noticed on mine, fuel pressure would bleed down. Never interfered with starting even cold at 0 pressure. Builds quickly while starting. Check the fuel damper next to the pump. Probably going to need a mirror to really look at everything carefully or get an inexpensive endoscope camera from Amazon that’s blue tooth. Valuable tool.

Put it on Jack stands, grab a buddy and start investigating.

Can you give us an idea of what you are replacing?

Converting my car from FI to triple 47mm OER carburetors for my Datsun Spirit motor. The canister and anything associated with the FI has been removed permanently, mounting brackets etc. Looking for some ideas at this time on venting the tank once that line has been removed. Appreciate all the help.

Checking on an order status when I saw this. Pretty Cool. Belong to anyone you know?