26th-Z

This car is many things not more than an issue of rust.

doesn't

You will need a gauge needle puller.

I don't think anyone has ever done a chemical analysis of the metallurgy. "was the hardware..." is too general a question. The hardware on the S30 is many different electroplated finishes. Chrome, black zinc, silver zinc, and zinc chromate come to mind. Or at least that's what I call them. When people refer to cadmium, I think they are talking about zinc chromate. Here's an example.

A good source would be the parts book. 27320-E4125 RECEIVER RADIO AM AUTO-TUNING was the first Hitachi radio through late 1971. The E8800, E8825, and N3600 are the later AM/FM 5-button Hitachi radios. There was also the optional AM 8-Track Stereo; 27350-E4126 and E4128.

Finally home in front of my parts book and photo files. Thought I would throw a little info out there. Nissan lists this antenna as 27350-E4125 KIT-AERIAL AUTO TUNING (RADIO) it would coincide with 27320-E4125 RECEIVER RADIO AM AUTO-TUNNING The E8800, E8825, and N3600 are the AM/FM 5-button radios. The antennas associated with them would be 27350-E4127 and N3600. There are optional antennas that coincide with the optional AM 8-Track Stereo; 27350-E4126 and E4128. Here's some antenna porn from my files. I don't know anything about the black coil antenna. It has a different tip as well. The Harada antenna is the one shown in my parts book and the tip is the blunt topped version with the black ring.

The mast tip is different from the earliest versions. We discussed this years ago. The very earliest versions had a pointed tip where as this version has a flat tip. I don't know about the length. It IS the original manufacturer and I believe will fit all S30 models. Sorry for the rotated picture.

So speaking of anal retentive, let me point out that the 1970, 1971 and 1972 owners manuals were reprinted in 1997 for the Vintage Z program. The printing date for all the manuals is on the rear cover. If it says 1997, it's a reprint and there is no difference from the original printing.

What's considered an early car, where's the line? Manufactured in '69 or double digits, triple digits? I would consider the first 500 as Carl Beck has previously noted however as time marches on, we see fewer and fewer (and appreciate more and more) of the 1970 and early 1971 model years. We make reference and distinction between the "Series I" and "Series II" builds quite often. I would have to suggest that a "Series I" car is considered an early car. To me, if the car has hatch vents, it's an early car.

Lexan is the stuff that yellows with age. https://www.acplasticsinc.com/informationcenter/r/lexan-vs-acrylic

The archives have many threads about this topic including discussions about patterns for cutting the material. I gave up a long time ago trying to find original material. Best of luck!

Oh, if your'e thinking of buying a tumbler or a vibrator; they both work the same, I just happen to prefer the tumbler. I have the one I linked. I fill the canister about half full with hardware and media.

I have been using the green media for which I posted a link. It wears out pretty fast compared to stiffer media I have used. Tumbler times? Usually overnight, minimum 4 hours, more like six. Bigger parts, big bolts take longer. Little washers actually help the process by banging into each other. No, it doesn't damage the threads. I wash and dip the tumbled stuff in OSPHO before I inspect everything. Sometimes I run a tap or die over the threads. Don't let the OSPHO drip dry. It will cake in the threads. Wipe everything off with a dry towel. And your'e good to go.

Great explanation, Jim. I bagged and wired in groups, like 'the rear suspension' or 'front fender bolts' so that groups / assemblies came back all together. The wire wheel routine will take your fingertips off. And zing precious bolts as far out as the front lawn. I used a rock tumbler from Harbor Freight and media for rust cutting to clean all my hardware. The bigger things had to be media blasted which I farmed out. https://www.harborfreight.com/dual-drum-rotary-rock-tumbler-67632.html https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=60542

Original hose clamps for your 1970 build are clear zinc. The door strikers are clear zinc.

Thanks Kats!

Kats, I think you said that the intake manifold on the Bonhams car was for an automatic? What about it would make it for an automatic? Other comments about this car come from Ben's observation about when it was put on the block. That could have been a significant factor in the final price. Hey Ben! We can count on you to feel up a ZG! The paint quality was obviously bad - in the worst of obviously spots! Same for the fit of the front fenders. I almost want to think it was crashed. Finally, a shout-out to Zed Head. You could learn a lot from this site!

http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

PPG was the paint supplier for the Vintage Z program.

I haven't seen one of those for sale in a long time. They came in three different finishes, this one being gold. They are actually worth quite a bit, however this one doesn't have the right cover. Too bad.

As I posted earlier, the steering shaft from 10/69 is stamped 4M

I'm surprised the price is so low, frankly. It's authenticity is easily verified, I believe, if you know anything about Scarabs. So chalk the comments about documentation up to ignorance. There's a ton of information about Scarabs in the archives.

Yes, acetone with one of those green scotch-brite sponges. Put paper towels in the cylinders so that you won't spill acetone down into the cylinders. Use a Permatex gasket sealant like their copper gasket spray. Get the two surfaces as clean as you can.

Many thanks for the part number. I'll give it a try. I don't know what the steering shaft numbers mean. Notice how the u-joint from shaft 194 is peened in place? The u-joints from my early steering shafts are not peened. I hve a later shaft from a '72 that has the peened fitting.

Yep, yep. That's what I'm looking for. I found a proper size u-joint in England, however you say Kawasaki. What part #? I saw your post and pictures after the die grinder.