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Everything posted by AlbatrossCafe

  1. Nice! yeah, I did my tie rod and swaybars with wheels on the ground. Otherwise I had no chance
  2. These were a PITA to get lined up, for sure, but you should NOT have to compress the strut in order to get this to work. Bend your steering knuckle towards the car. It looks the ball joint and the knuckle are facing outwards. That ball joint should be adjusted so it as closely matches the angle of the bottom of the spindle as possible. Once I got it "close" I used a fat screwdriver that I fit through both of the mounting holes (on on side) that you are talking about and pried that around to try to line it up enough the other side enough to get the bolt in. EDIT: Now that I think about it, I think I did use a jack under the control arm or something to get it to line up a little easier. But I didn't let the car drop on its own weight. I think I just gave it a couple of pumps under the arm to kind of get it into position. It didn't take much with that method.
  3. I have a 1978 280z fan shroud, clutch and fan that I could get rid of after going to electric. PM me if anyone is interested.
  4. Do you have a link or something to what you are talking about? I am curious
  5. Hey... where are your big fat 280z bumpers? Might have saved ya ?
  6. I tried to change my fluid but couldn't get the fill plug off for the life of me. Good thing I checked that before the drain... I'm sure my fluid is 10 years old.
  7. haha I love that name! "Garage Mahal". This is exactly what I want. But definitely needs an in-ground vehicle lift!
  8. So awesome. I was just there a few weekends ago, so it is really cool when I recognize some of the exact spots that those pictures were taken. Now I'm gonna have to take mine on the same trip!
  9. I'm not really sure how that voltmeter light works either. For me, it seems to come on and honk at you once voltage goes really high? Here is a video of my '78 280z with L28ET swap after the internal regulator on my alternator blew out and the ground coming off the alternator was fried into pieces:
  10. Figured I would try here before going to fleaBay. I got a new radiator and am using electric fans, so I don't need these anymore. They were working great on my 1978 280z before I took them off. One of the fan blades (2 o'clock one in the picture) is clipped off at the end but I noticed no difference in performance. What do you guys thinks? $100 + shipping takes it all?
  11. I bought a pair of these before realizing my new control arms come with a massive bolt instead of needing spindle pins. It is this kit: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4240ki BUT, it is missing 2 pieces of hardware: (1) 14-1410 8mm Lock Washer (for Lock Bolt) (1) 23-4242 Spindle Pin Nut Shouldn't be too hard to find these at a local hardware store. Also to clarify, I am only selling one spindle pin! $40 shipped in continental US!
  12. Hmm.... well isn't this suspicious? lol ? I believe this is the ground connection coming off the alternator? Not only was the wire severed, but the insulation was cooked off and pretty crispy! Looks like I have some good leads to go on now. This weekend I'll finally be able to get into it with a meter.
  13. Here are the problems I have noticed since I this arc: Tachometer dances all over the place when I push in the clutch (before it was very smooth/accurate) Speedo bounces a bit too Parking "Brake" indicator always illuminated Door chime sounding at double its normal speed Coolant temp pegged at max (250 degrees) while driving, but goes back to center after ~15 seconds of idling? Oil pressure pegged at max while driving, but goes back to center after ~15 seconds of idling? Voltage indicator at 16+ while driving with "Charge Light" always on Headlights are so dim they are unusable (even with Voltage at 16+) Do you guys think that my ECU or some relays or something could have been affected as well? Not sure where a lot of these signals (speedo, tach, temp) come from or whether or not they go through ECU. Or are all these a byproduct of bad alternator and/or over-voltage? Luckily I have a new 125A alternator from ZSpecialties and MegaSquirt 2 on the way. I hope that solves these issues.
  14. FYI I just emailed zspecialties and he is still making these. I'm going to pick it up next week since I am local to him. What I would like to know is what does the charge light actually do? Does it indicate overcharging or something?
  15. Not sure where the travel is. As cgsheen1 said, you don't preload the spring at all. So it is just wherever the coilover rests. Maybe that means I barely have any uptravel, I don't know. I think I will try cranking up the preload higher and lowering the height adjustment to see if I can gain some uptravel. Either way, I'm gonna put a go-pro on the suspension to see what is going on when I feel those bumps (i.e., is it compressing all the way? Is it not moving?) I got Stance because they were supposed to not be the same el-cheapo china coilovers like BC, Megan Racing, etc. While that is true, I guess that doesn't mean they are a superior product. Knew I should have just went with TTT all along.... I got everything else from them anyway.
  16. It is a '78 but it has an L28ET from an '82. Not sure what they moved over. I know the alternator is 60amp but that is it. I'll check voltage this week. I know I was looking at getting a bigger alternator anyway (for electric fans) so if it is internal, a new alt would include a new regulator with it, correct?
  17. I don't know either. Where would the external one be if I had it? Otherwise, it seems like Internal is attached to the alternator somewhere? (I think the below pics are what I should be looking for in regards to External vs. Internal) Sry, I am new to engines and am still trying to figure out where everything is.
  18. Yeah, that's what I figured. It has 15 damping settings. I've tried 1/15, 5/15, and 15/15. I'm toast no matter what lol. I'll try to get video of the shock to see if it is bottoming out or something.
  19. Was driving home late Saturday night on a slight downhill when sparks starting erupting from my hood. The engine immediately cutoff and sparks were flying so far that they were coming out through my hood vents. I turned off the key and coasted to a pullout on the side of the road. What I found is that whoever did the L28ET engine swap 14 years ago on this car slid a rubber insulator over copper connection on the positive battery lead. This had slid off over the year of my ownership and grounded to the inside fender. I covered the lead, drove the car home and put it on the battery charger. Charger showed it was at 60% until morning where it became 100%. Now, I have the following issues: Headlights are so unbelievably dim (before and after charging battery). Even when cruising at RPMs, they are equivalent to a couple of 15 year old weak flashlights. Not bright enough to drive without streetlights IMO Fan at speed 4 is more like fan at speed 2 unless I give it gas I turned off all electronics except flashers. At idle and with RPMs, it seems to sap a ton of voltage. Also, with just flashers on, there is a "honk" or "beep" that occurs when the voltage jumps to like 16? I have never heard that before. It is that a "charging indicator" or something? (see video below) Could this have ruined my OEM 60amp alternator?
  20. Did this last weekend. I swapped the rear 5k springs with the new 3k springs. What I found: Removing the spring from the bottom was indeed possible and it prevented me from having to get another alignment! Yay! It was a HUGE PITA and required a ton of grip strength to turn that stupid coilover body over so many threads haha but still worth not paying $75+ for alignment I put the 25mm longer spring exactly 1" lower. My car is about the same height (plus/minus 0.25"). What that does for this height debate is unknown lol sorry I couldn't settle it more! Having a 3k spring vs. a 5k spring in the rear handles almost identical in the limited street driving (15 miles) test I did. I still slam my head into the ceiling when the rear goes over small speed bumps. Grr.... maybe I need rubber bushings again. Proof:
  21. Working under this car for sure is discouraging. I have to use either multiple jacks in succession like you or use my big jack with 1000 tiny little jack movements because the fender of the car is in the way of the jacking arm. And then if you aren't careful you end up punching in the frame rails. EZ-lift seems cool. Very simple to use. I still don't understand how it secures itself (it seems you don't need jack stands?) But for $1600? Oof.... Might be worth it at $800 for me. Especially since a full-sized one can be had for $1300 - https://www.toolots.com/bolton-tools-floor-plate-two-post-car-lift-l4g-7800lb-220v.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwz93cBRCrARIsAEFbWsiFefCImk7xJTWuPYaAehrfMh3dOy6fM3X4pyQaIlI3Zg-lBq-blVcaAi6BEALw_wcB I enjoy working under my truck. It has basically the clearance of EZ lift with the tires on the ground ?
  22. lol you got that right. My forearms are gonna be tired for sure. I'll try my way first and see how frustrated I get. Thanks for the help. I always get confusing advice on my coilovers since Stance operates a bit differently than most.
  23. Will do. The reason I suggested doing it the way I did is because I was trying to avoid having to re-do my whole alignment from unbolting everything from the camber plate at the top. On these coilovers the height adjustment is independent of the pre-load adjustment. So I will do my best to get the shock in the middle of it's travel range then match the height to match what I had before the swap. At any rate, springs aren't showing till Tuesday so I'll have to do it next weekend. We'll see how it goes.
  24. I picked up the 3k springs from Stance for a very reasonable price. They are indeed 200mm. Now tell me this... is replacing the spring as easy as: Undoing the coilover adapter from the coilover body to drop the spindle/hub assembly Using spanner to unscrew preload adjustment ring Dropping the spring off Slide the new spring on Using spanner to screw preload adjustment ring back on to 1" (25mm) below the original spring height) Reattach coilover body to spindle/hub assembly at same thread level Probably a spring compressor would be much faster than trying to use a spanner the whole time but you get the idea.
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