jonbill

Sounds like the argument for god. "Yes Darwin, Einstein et al, you may have shown how everything that is may have come from nothing, but you've not proved that Nissan didn't ship any cars with cad plate bolts in the 70s"

It seems to me a lot of weight is being put on what Carl Beck reported of what someone at a materials lab 35 years ago told him. What if the guys in the materials lab were busy, stuck Carl's bolts in the drawer and fobbed him off when he came back? Why would anyone believe such an anecdote in the face of a document from Nissan at the time saying what they used? Just as OEMs today thoroughly check suppliers work against the spec, I'd be very surprised if Nissan in the 70s accepted cad plating when they'd specified zinc.

z-services.eu is a different business.

Oh I'm here every day, taking it all in 😄

https://www.precisionshims.com.au/products/slotted

Fwiw, I think what's going on here is that the logic for which post to go to varies in a number of ways. E.g. if you click on a thread in an activity stream and you've not real all posts in the thread, it takes you to your first unread post. If you've read them all and you're clicking on the thread title then it takes you to the first post. If you click on the post count, it takes you to the last post. If you click on the thread in someone's profile page, it takes you to their contribution to the thread. Etc etc. this is all pretty normal forum behaviour I think.

Actually speeduino is different from ms3 is a number of ways. The ms3 manual is good background but also read the speeduino manual.

The stud pattern on the jenvey 40 and 45 itbs is the same as the 40/45 dcoe carbs. Thats the point. The itbs come in 3 lengths I think, and I suppose it is possible that the longest ones might be too long. You should be able to measure it up on your car.

You can change your display name here: https://www.classiczcars.com/settings/username/

I have the steel drums on one of my cars. I didn't notice any difference in performance from the original aluminium ones.

I think there are two different thicknesses of filter. Pre and post 73, roughly.

I'd lift the rear end, take the wheels off turn the wheels and check if you can see or hear it.

I don't quite understand what you're describing, but it sounds wrong. It should be the same left and right. I don't know what wheels you have, some fit different wheels front and back, but the standard is the same wheels front and back.

It definitely sounds like something is hitting every revolution of a wheel. Have you tried swapping that front left wheel to the rear?

Rusty or warped brake discs?

It could be lots of things. My guess would be some suspension bolt not done up tight enough.

You could run the wire faster on setting 3. or slower on setting 2.

Only paid up members can see content in the members only area Ali.

Both.

Yep 👍

Yes, 7s won't hurt I'm sure.

Its not about absorbing heat, its about keeping the tip of the spark plug at the right temperature to keep it clean but not burn. When the cylinder temperatures are higher (higher compression, different fuels etc) then the plug tip needs to be more shrouded to keep it a bit cooler. I.e. a hot plug doesn't run hotter than a cold plug, they are all meant run at the same temp. A cold plug needs a hotter cylinder to keep it at the target temperature. So if you were convinced that you change in AFRs was resulting in hotter cylinder temperatures, then you might fit a 7 plug. And then if you discover it gets fouled you could go back to a 6. If you buy the cheap standard plugs, thats not painful.

Because cylinder temps aren't much changed by being somewhat leaner at idle.

100kpa is about 15psi is about 1 bar is about atmospheric pressure.

I'd just go with cheap bpr6es. Does your engine burn some oil? It looks like there are deposits on the spark plugs.