sblake01

And a good attorney for the aftermath.

I also helped a friend put a Z24S from a Nissan truck into a 80 510. Strong running car but nothing I'd call hi performance. I owned a 81 200sx with a Z20E which is the EFI version of the engine. Again, not much for performance but good as a daily driver.

I was in the process of building one of those when I sold my last 510. I don't know, I think that no matter what you do to the Z series engines you'd probably still have a better motor if you chose a KA or an SR. That being said, you're proposing the exact opposite of what he's talking about. He seems to want to put the NAP-Z head on 'any of the three other nissan motors' that he apparently has or has access to. Even not knowing what the other three motors are, I don't know why anyone would want to use that head on anything but another NAP-Z and the only for a 'daily driver' type engine.

I've been trying to decide between that one and the one half way down this page. I'll probably attend the Empire show Saturday and the Speedway event Sunday. http://www.empirez.com/homepage/homepage.htm

An 80 Nissan truck would have a Z20S 4 cylinder. You won't be able to build much of a 'performance' motor using that head. It was designed for lower emissions. People have used the Z series 4 cylinder blocks with an L series 4 cylinder head to make a larger displacement four cylinder performance engine but it requires a lot of machine shop work. Basically because of the way a Z20S is tilted, the only engine that will go in a 80 Nssan pickup is another Z series 4 cylinder unless you change the transmission also as it's bellhousing is tilted to match the engine. Maybe this will clear up why he's calling it a 'Z' engine: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Z_engine

Thanks, Ron. I sometimes forget to stress the imporance of safety. Working with HVAC/MVAC for as long as I have and having once been a cetified welder, I guess I take for granted that everyone will be aware of the dangers involved working with chemicals/gasses, etc. as I am.

Diluted muriatic acid will strip the gunk off of old aluminum wheels better than any of that stuff and it costs less. You just have to have the nerve and skills to use it! And wear chemical resistant gloves. You can't leave it on too long because it starts to etch the aluminum. And when you rinse them after an acid wash, don't rinse in the direction of your lawn, flowerbeds, etc. That being said, an acid wash is always my first step in cleaning old aluminum wheels.

85 and sunny here over the weekend.

Looks like the ones I had on my 1st 510 back in the 70s. That's how much things have changed. His asking price is $300 ea (Canadian?). That's about what I paid for four of them including tires and mounting/balance etc. back then.

Did you have insurance on it? When mine was stolen in January 2001, my insurance covered everything including the impound and storage charges. EDIT: After going back and reading through your initial post I see that your car was likely not insured. Still it's great news that it was found.

Well, that clears it right up!

That's just a preview of the DVD they'll be releasing later. Should be a lot of Zeds as well as many other interesting Japanese classics on it. I don't know about his autograph but if youre nice to him maybe he'll send you one of these.

Thank you but he asked what I meant by it.

It's just and acknowlegement of agreement. Kind of a slang term for 'true'.

Cool. I saw that on the JCCS site the other day. I called Daisey in and said "look, it's Vic".

The tang must be in the proper location for the timing marks to be of any use. If not, when you 'advance' the distributor it's still not in time with the engine. In other words, where your distributor drive is now, even when you turn the dist as far as it will go, you run out of adjustment before it reaches the point at which the engine will run properly with no possible further adjustment. Definately get that squared away before you deal with the carbs.

Once again.....word!!!!

Word!!! The main problem that most people seem to have with this and the other $20K 260Z is the price. If you have no intention of buying it, what's the point of criticizing it or antagonizing the seller?

From my experience it looks like the tang is a little too far clockwise. Should look more like this at TDC:

Not too hard once you're inside the door. Undo the clip that holds the rod, remove the rod from the lock, remove the clip that holds the lock (don't drop it in the door), and remove the lock. Careful with the rubber seal on the outside between the lock and the door, they're usually painted in place. My lock guy does them for $15 ea.

The $46,500.00 260Z has been lowered to $39,500.00.

This year was the first but they are planning on making it a yearly event. I contemplated going, as the drive up to Vallejo is a nice drive, but I prefer shows that don't have a lot of the 85 and up cars.

Cars or other things? I only ask because these are two completely different ballgames. I'll buy parts or other things there but only after doing enough research to find that it's the only place I could find the item and that I like the price/shipping costs but I'd never even consider puchasing or selling a car on eBay. No more than I'd walk through a crime infested area to get to a grocery store.

I don't know. It seems like these discussions keep looping back and forth betwen the same two cars.

From what I recall reading in a thread here, though I can't find it now, is that those holes are British pipe thread for whatever reason (Japanese car/British pipe thread?). From what I've learned while being an ACE 'Helpful Hardware' clerk over the past four+ years it that BPT has a slightly different taper to the threads than 'standard' pipe thread. But, as ta240 says, standard can be coerced to fit. However, since he used brass, I hope he never plans to remove them!