sblake01

That would depened on the nature of her need for toilet paper.

I was going to say that but Al said not to be critical.:tapemouth

Me too but don't be sad. You're not nearly as old as I am.

A 3.90 would be 'snappier' than a 3.54. But if you do ge an 83 diff, make sure it comes out of a manual trans car or you'll just be putting basically the same rear end in ratio wise but stepping down to a R180.

Who's arguning? Tests are a good thing but test what makes sense. 'Dry spark plugs' and he stated earlier in this thread don't suggest a bad cold start valve. Simple things first based on the symptoms. Injector pulse, fuel pressure. Based on the results, go from there. "did you replace the cold start injector too?" were your words. Sounds like a suggestion to toss parts at it to me. You didn't suggest a test until I questioned that. At any rate, I was just suggesting a simpler course of action. The more information you give someone who is inexperienced with these cars the more confusing they become.

This is probably as close to it as you can get: http://tinyurl.com/3cd44l

We call them VINs as kind of a generic term, I guess. Some manufacturers called them car numbers or chassis numbers but there just wasn't an accepted standard until 1980. There wasn't much in the way of 'identification' in the number prior to 1980. I used to know what each part of the 17 digit vin meant but I know that the first three digits are the manufacturer identifier and the last 6 contain the sequential number and somewhere in the middle are the vehicle's equipment, drive train, etc.

Frank, this is off topic but I love the story of your Z. I'm not much into the lower VIN thing, but I once owned 00488 and sold it or actually traded it in in 72. I'm not looking for another car but if I could find that car and it was in decent enough condition, I'd probably buy it.

Not sure where you're going to find that. The 23T is for a 4.88 and that's the highest I've ever seen from Nissan.

I'd be suprised? I'm not the one asking for advice here. If you would read through my posts (I wouldn't really expect you to do that) but if you did, you'd notice that I've never come here to ask for mechanical advice. My cars run. If and when they develop problems I know how to fix them. I've been working on these things since they've existed. I have test equipment and know how to use it. My point was to not just start throwing parts at it as so many seem to suggest here. It's really difficult to determine a problem based on someone's typed description of the symptoms. Simple advice gets completely bypassed. Like checking the fuel pressure, checking the injector pulse, etc. Most problems I see here are ususally caused by something simple. Generally you have someone who has replaced something that probably didn't need replacing and made some mistake in the process like forgetting to plug something in or using the wrong component etc. Nothing here surprises me.

Well that's not the problem although at 57 I ocaisonally have to be reminded what to do with it.:devious::devious::devious:

In fact, I've yet to see any photos of the 77 in any of your posts. It certainly would have helped since it seems to me that you've been trying to sell this car since sometime in early September.

She's actually selling her 77 not the 75 but it still sounds like a good deal.

And don't forget about STAYZ75Z's car at less than half of what you're talking about spending. It's a 75 and wouldn't need smog checks either but you'd have to act fast: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28637

And it would never have to be smog checked in California since it's a 71 unless they change the laws again. I too have considered purchasing Asta's car but if I bought another car home I'd end up having to sleep in garage with it

You'll have to explain the phrase "lost one wire going to my air flow meter" a little better. Did it break? Did it fall off? Splice it back together. If it's broken off too short to do that, go to the junkyard a cut a connecter off with enough wire to splice it in.

A 76 is fuel injected and a 72 has carbs so no to that question. I would attempt an answer the first question if you car was fuel injected but since it's a 72 I'll have to defer to the carb guys.

Would that be Dennis Currington? Is the car a 77 or a 78? I also noticed Vic's old truck in your gallery.

mtndud, you're just east and up the hill from us less than 20 miles away. I too could lend a hand when he gets the car down here. Ironically, I graduated from Cal Poly Pomona albeit some 35 years ago. Does he plan to live on campus? Crestline would be a pretty fair commute. But back to the actual question here. I'll ask my friend here who does my smog about non California cars. After all, regardless of what the DMV says, it's the smog techs who have the final yes or no at the consumer level.

You need the black one (17T) 32703-78101 for the stock 3.54 rear end. If the tranny came out of and 83 it probably has the white (19T). I know how everybody seems to love Courtesy Parts but I get my stuff from nissanparts.cc. They seem to be able to get parts that Coutresy says are NLA and their prices are a little better.

While that question is a little more useful than post #28, the cold start valve isn't going to keep his car from running. Even if there is a problem with it, it would be much easier to address once the car is running. I'd say, for now, forget about the cold start valve.

Weclome! And that would be DATSUN not Nissan! At least for me, there is a distinction but that's another story that would only take this thread off topic. You're on the right track. Pulling fuel from a clean container is the method I used to confirm a problem gas tank when I bought my 78 10 years ago. I'd lean away from the fuel cell idea and have your stock tank cleaned if that turns out to be the case. I actually put a tank from a used running car in mine. Even so, I still had it cleaned. No problems ever since. Keep us posted.

It is modified but I've never had the fume problem before. I only put the tip on to keep the exhaust off of that 'beautiful' rear bumper.

California 280Zs don't have smog pumps. No 280 has a smog pump. California equipped 280Zs have catalytic converters, altitude compensation swithches (a fairly useless item!), egr valve, and the floor temperature warning system. Rolfsis's car would be smog exempt in California. 76 and newer vehicles have to be smog checked here.

Post some pictures as Mike stated. How much body work experience do you and your friend have?