sblake01

Well, it's just terminology, but I knew exactly what he was talking about when he said 'Z motor'. That's what it is. Nissan Zs don't have Z motors.

Well, as Jamie from the Mythbusters would say, "Well, there's your problem right there". I don't know of any benchmarks for tuning a 78 280Z with an AFM designed for a 4 cyl Toyota with or without a TPS. The TPS changes the mixture during the different stages of throttle opening. If you get it right in one stage, it will be off in the others without it. But the real problem is that the AFM you have is not designed for that car. You're just going to have to tinker with that until you get it right if that's possible. Or find a proper AFM for that car. What was the reason for swapping the OEM AFM?

If she buys them, she'll likely end up with the same one's that eveyone has. As long as we're not talking about the ZG or Datsun Comp. Department type. The latter costs a fortune when you can find them. I do believe that the ones that have the 'body line', the rubber molding and the three small metal mounts are made by the same company regardless of where you purchase them.

Well, the story is impressive anyway.

Mike, I was agreeing with you. I worded that post wrong. I was actually resonding to RandyN's comment and using your statement to back up my response. I meant that it does state in the manual that the adjustment holes can be used to compensate for chain wear. It's just not clear the way I worded it.

Though that is not the experess purpose of the adjustment positions, it is stated as such in the service manuals. Randy, are you trying to impress us with your knowlege of the L series engine? We're not talking about installing a performance cam in this instance.

That would have made an excellent final post to this thread.

Well, that would be the start of another thread. But all I'll say on that is, reaearch is one thing, and first hand knowlege is another. I've never put together a 'race' engine though I've rebuilt many a L series 4 and six cylinder and well as other engines. Those kind of numbers are cool, I guess, but that's not the kind of thing I need in my cars. If I wanted something that pulls like a GSX-R1000, I'd probably buy a GSX-R1000. JMO and I'm done here.

No race setup is involved here. He's just trying to get the car running right. It's been a week since he posted about this. He likely has it under control already.

What we were discussing is a lot more basic than all of that. You've been working on them for 12 years, I've been working on L series engines for almost 38 years. Doesn't mean much in this case. All he really needs to do is get his distributor drive spindle set properly and everything should be okay from there.

You can dowload the 82 FSM which has a section on the ECCS here for free: (When it's available) http://carfiche.com/manuals022/cars/

The basic EFI system from 75-82, which I'm familiar with uses an ECU (electronic control unit) which we often refer to as a 'computer' but it isn't. All it does is patch through singnals from the various sensors, switches, etc. It makes no adjustments or computations. From 82.5-83 (84 if you count the Maxima), the ECCS was used. The ECCS (electronic concentrated engine control system) uses a micro-computer. Electrical signals from each sensor are fed into the micro-computer and each actuator is controlled by an electrical pulse with a duration that is computed in the micro-computer. It uses mixture ratio feedback for the closed loop control, a barometric pressure sensor, cylinder head temperature sensor, crank angle sensor, exhaust gas sensor, air temperature sensor, throttle valve switch, air flow meter, battery voltage for memory, and the ignition position start switch to activate it. Considerably different and more complex than the earlier system used in the 75-82. There is a laundry list of things that should be checked based on the symptoms you cited. Do you have a Factory Service Manual? I would be easier to read through it than attempting to post the many pages devoted the maintainence of the ECCS. I have one in .pdf but it's for an 82.

clindayag1, if your switch turns out to be bad, you can have the one I pictured. It works and I have a couple of extras and I'm somewhat local to you.

And, Mike, you were worried that this would turn into a debate:)

Don't recall about the 70 but that clip was on my 72. I only recall that because I broke it and had to get another one from the dealer.

Pull those wires back in this direction: And plug them into this. It should be on the side of your trans and you can reach it from under the hood: If the wires are missing from the switch, you'll need a new one.

And, you'll never pass smog without it. Your's is a 77 and you live in California. You need to be careful with the modifications you do on it because it appears that the idiots in Sacremento intend to have us smog checking the 76 and newer cars for quite some time here.

Well, I believe an 83 would have the E.C.C.S. and I'm not too familiar with that. It's more like a modern system than the 75-82.5 EFI. The advice you give is the direction I'd follow, however. I would have to do some reading to get anywhere near up to speed, as they say, on that system.

I really doubt that I could give my opinion without this becoming a debate. But let me just say that I doubt that Obama will be elected president.

From what I understand, the EGR tube is still available. 14120-N4701 for California cars and 14120-N4702 for federal. They're about 55 bucks. I bought one 6 years ago and looking at the nissanparts.cc site, the price hasn't changed much although they charge less that the Nissan dealers.

I guess that could be done. I would have to be done right so as not to add or decrese from it's size or bend or it'll probably break again when you try to install it. The engine vibration would probably break it anyway. I'd search for another one.

That's the character that Michael J. Fox plays. He's the protagonist (main character). Didn't pay much attention to it the couple of times you watched it, did you?