sblake01

The original poster, who hasn't replied yet, never did confirm the type of fumes he was experiencing. If it was exhaust, which I doubt, since it's a 78, unless he has an exhaust leak somewhere under the car. The 280Z and late 260Z exhaust exits farther back because of the position of those 'hated' bumpers. But a fuel leak.....well at nearly 40 psi, besides the obvious danger, those fumes would definately, in his words It's the more likely scenario and he never made any mention of windows being up or down.

I also seems strange that the second bidder would increase the bid by $6k. Looks kind of shillish.

He never actually mentions a VIN. His quote is "0006 off the assembly line". Could just be an attempt at clever(!) marketing. Or he could just be clueless. If this car was of such historical value wouldn't it be priced higher? And without the other car?

I'd listen to cebu on this one since he has the same year car as the poster. Everyone else is referencing 280Zs and one mention of a 240.

Those are precisely the reasons I learned how to fix them myself as well as air conditioning systems. Few shops or dealerships know how to work on 'Datsuns' or want to work on anything the requires the use of R12 refrigerant.

The stroker requires an over bore of .060" along with the LD28 crank, L24 rods, KA24 pistons w/a 1mm flycut as well as a lot of other machine shop work to be a 3 liter (2998cc). Most of the ones I've seen are bored .120" resulting in 3.1 litre (3098cc).

That's what I said back in post 5, or tried to say. I typoed and corrected in post 7.

Don't really care for the "halo ring". It's a modern look on an vintage car and IMO it doesn't really fit.

Here's the article:

Err...that would be a Saab. I'm working on the scan right now.

Did those 'huge' pictures that he posted "give you answers to any of your questions"?

Saw that car at the JCCS. Or one like it but I doubt if there could be two. Didn't pay much attention to it with all the other great stuff that was there but I do recall him saying that he designed and built that head himself.

Since you lost them all at once, forget checking the sockets, etc. If you're also missing the dash lights, heater panel lights, ashtray light, etc. replace this fuse: BTDT

"At least they left the stereo" or something like that.

1307 from the last VIN according to the FSM.

I believe they refer to that as the 'Nigerian Scam'. Or a smaller scale version of it. They usually go for higher ticket items than car parts but I guess things are changing.

Yeah, I was going to add that the three pieces; funnel, seal, and clamp were for the 77-78 but I ran out of edit time.

Glad to hear that you've got it under control. Your pic #3 looks just like the one I posted in post #9. The first L series I ever worked on was a 69 510. 4 cyl but the same premise. I must have moved that spindle 10 times before I was able to get everything in the right relationship. That was about 38 years ago so I've had a lot of practice. Nothing else seems to work right until that is properly set up. The '11:25' thing can be confusing. To me it's just a visusal thing. I know when it looks right and when it doesn't so I never run into that problem anymore.

Yep, 12/74-7/78 280Z air cleaner. The plastic part with the mounting tab intact and the rubber seal that goes on the end of the air cleaner are somewhat hard to find but not overly so. And the clamp that holds the two pieces together. Probably not worth much more than the one on eBay unless it's complete. I've got a couple of those too but I'm also using a cold air intake/K&N filter on mine:

Most shops will paint it with as much disassembly as you ask for. The more disassembly (and asssembly that follows) the more it will cost. I also feel that the more the car is disassembled, the better the paint job will turn out.

True, but he says "i know the gas gets to the injectors" (!?) and a fuel pressure check was suggested back post #7 which would have verified any clogs in the system, a bad fuel filter, or lack of enough pressure to run but that hasn't been done yet so we're still guessing.

That is correct. My bad, I flip flopped them from the microfiche.

In this thread I have a couple of posts about the fuel injection relay and it's test procedure. The ignition relay is the large one in the bracket in the passenger side footwell. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=235069&highlight=fuel+injection+relay#post235069

I don't think all of the connectors would go bad at once. More likely, you're not getting a signal to the injectors. Could be your ignition relay or the main fuel injection relay both of which are in the circuit that fires the injectors. Oh, and don't mess with those air bleed screws on the AFM especially with the car not running. Even if it was running I wouldn't suggest touching those unless a) you know what you're doing with them and you have some type of meter to measure air/fuel ratio, CO, HC, etc.

I was able to find this qoute from the aforementioned and very knowlegable Alan T. I hope he doesn't mind me using it. I stand corrected as the L20 engine did come with fuel injection making it an L20E. Look very carefully at that engine number and see if the prefix is L20 rather than L28 as you stated. The 'E' which denotes electronic fuel injection won't be on the engine block or the identification tag.