sblake01

It's a 76 Fairlady Z. I don't think they were called 260Z because they didn't have the L26 engine. Your tag indicates that it originally had an L20 engine (1998cc). You say it has an L28? And its fuel injected? I'm not that well versed on the non USA models but that would indicate that the engine has been changed and possibly a lot of the electronics because I don't know that the L20 ever was fuel injected. I wish Alan T. (HS30-H) or someone in Australia who would be much more versed on these cars would chime in.

I only paid $75 for the one in my Z ten years ago and $120 for the one in my 810 this year. They're both 83 trannys, one from a Maxima and one from a ZX. Got them at the junkyard, did seals and bearings in one and seals, bearings, and synchros in the other. Both work fine. Keep looking as that's too much for a used one and I don't care for the indiscriminant spraying of paint or coating on the eBay trans. That stuff is everywhere including places it shouldn't be.

Well, that wasn't really my point. The 350 Z is about as different from an S30 as a Mustang is. The Z name is only a connection in marketing terms. I really don't expect any recognition from either the Mustang driver or the 350Z driver.

Personally, I don't hate the 350Z or resort to calling it names, it's just a different car than an S30. Period. And that was my point. It might has well have been made by some other company. There's nothing to compare.

Why does no one in a 2007-08 Mustang recognize S30s? Same reason, completely different cars with no connection to each other. The companies that made them used different names (even though we all know Nissan and Datsun are the same company). Datsun 280Z-Nissan 350Z. Datsun 280Z-Ford Mustang. Other than the Z in the name (which should be Nissan 350ZX), there's no connection.

Looks like the car has an L28E in it now but it once had an L20. The catagories on the tag look to be: 1. Engine displacement 2. HP@rpm 3. Wheelbase (I think that should read 2605 mm) 4. Engine Type (I think that should read L20) 5. Chassis Number 6. Not sure because the tags I'm comparing it to don't have a 6th catagory. At the top it says Type followed by C-GS31 At the very bottom it should say Nissan Motor Co., LTD Yokohama, Japan. That's all based on a couple of tags in English that I compared yours to.

I had a transmission that was so bad that you could actually feel the drag but the car (my 810) would still top 60. It actually caused the car to run hotter than normal due to the extra stress on the drive train. When I removed it, I could move the input shaft about an inch from side to side. When I replaced the trans, all of those symptoms went away.

If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried.

You already have metal floorboards. They all do. It's just that the 77-78 have the raised fibreboard deck and the 75-76 have a fibreboard deck that sits flat on the floorboards and a full sized spare. I really didn't understand his comment since is car also has, or is supposed to have, a fibreboard deck also. It just isn't raised like the 77-78.

And they sound like a DC3 in flight! I had the clutch elimination kit on one of my 510s and it was loud.

Steven Wright?

The simple answer is fix the dings on the 77, sell the 78. The longer version, and this is JMO, is: The effort of swapping parts from one to the other will most likely not be recouped. You'll undoubtedly break stuff in the process of dissassembling and reassembling those 30 year old cars and that will cost you. The fact that they will both be 'patchwork' cars when you're done will also cost you. If you put the panels from the 78 on the 77 you're going to have to paint it anyway so what are you gaining there? As Dave says, do what you feel is right. Last I had heard was that you couldn't afford to fix the 78 after it was recovered and now you've bought another car. So, only you know what works for you.

Or it could be that the Toyota AFM meters air differently than the proper one for his car would. He's attempting to pass smog rather than going for performance. (I think) I don't know if he'd find any info on that at Hybrid. Even amongst the Datsun AFMs and ECUs, the manuals warn about mixing years. He's mixed manufacturers. And without a meter to test his adjustments, he's just guessing and using the failed smog tests to see his results. I'd be looking for a correct, stock AFM if it were me.

What d240zx2 proposes is not that expensive if you can do the work yourself. I can do bearings/rings and cylinder honing and the valve job myself. The only thing I'd have done at the shop is the cylinder head surfacing. Overall, it would cost less than purchasing and sorting out another engine.

I tried the brass bushings. Didn't like the 'buzz' in the shifter. The stock ones work fine, and are quieter. I make sure I keep a couple of sets on hand.

Now, that's clever(!)

I've had that setup in my 78 for years now. Late 5 speed/3.54 diff. I like it since it does create a little better highway mpg. But I will admit that the 810 with the same trans and it's 3.70 does pull a little better in 5th gear. I just think that if you go too much lower (higher numerically) with the differential that would also be defeating the purpose of having the 25.5% overdrive. I guess I don't notice it too much in the Z because here in California, the average traffic flow (when it's flowing) is always above the speed limit anyway.

You're correct about ratios though somewhere apparently it is mis-stated that they are the same because people keep saying that. First of all, before anyone mentions it, we can throw the Borg Warner T-5 completely out of this discussion. I've done much reaearch in that area and have even posted charts showing the differences. By Nissan's definition the A trans is the 70-71 with the 'monkey motion' shifter which has the pin on the bottom holding it in place and the B is the 72 and up with the horizontal pin and E clip with nylon bushings holding it in place. The confusion on the 'A and B' thing comes in because people sometimes refer to the five speeds a A (77-79), B (80), and C (81-83 ZX, 84 Maxima). Technically, all five speeds would be type B by Nissan's definition. The shifter on all type B four speeds and all five speeds are in the same position so no cutting would be necessary for any five speed in a 72 and up. Use the 4 speed shifter. Also, if you use the 80-83 trans, you'll need to use your 4 speed speedo gear but put it in the 80-83 collar because of the offset.

Do you have a way of testing the exhaust gas? I have a CO analyzer that I use while making adjustments. My Z has never failed a smog test during my ownership and my 810 failed one right after I bought it due to a bad TPS.

I always thought that your car is a beautiful example of a 280-any year. Now that the 76 and 77 models are covered, this opens the door me to say "hey, what about us 75 and 78 owners?

It's okay. Like I said, he's back on my ignore list so I can't see nor do I really care what his answer(s) are.

Has anyone seen these pictuers that I 'borrowed' from another site? There are some incredible pictures here. Beware, however, if you're a dial up user because there are a lot of them. http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=2079707

There's a lot of truth to what you say. I've watched all of your eBay non sales over the last few months and no one seems to want to pay the price for yours. Okay guys, I'm done. He's back on my ignore list. I just thought I'd take a look at his post and see what he could posssibly have had to say since the last go round of rolling mileage updates. And I do mean rolling! Rock on, 280zx10!

Those would be miles, according to you as you stated on 08-06-2007, 07:56 PM: So, how did it go from 9000 miles August 6 to 7909 miles on November 8? Did you use a flux capacitor?

Yeah, the one with the magic odometerROFL Posted by you on 07-19-2007, 05:37 AM GO AWAY!!!!!!